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Hello, Fortunately, I noticed my Mountain Cub (1965?) trials conversion bike stopped pumping oil before it got too hot. I assumed it had a bad oil pump. I found a new NOS pump for $50, so I went ahead and bought it and installed it (not a fun job). Unfortunately, my bike still isn't pumping oil. Although I'm not a triumph cub engine expert, I have rebuilt, from the crank up, three motors and they have ran great after my rebuild, so I do know my way around the motor. I was very careful to install the pump correctly and it was spotless when I installed it. Could the "dry" sump not have enough oil in it? If so, how would I add some oil? To note, I haven't pulled the copper lines that go to the rockers yet and checked for blockage. Note - the bike had been sitting for about six months prior to me noticing it wasn't pumping oil. Thanks for any input.

I had a bear run across a section of the loop trail I was on once. Small black bear so not sure how risky it was, still unnerving, but was interesting to get a glimpse of one on the ride for me and my riding buddy.

It could be also that you need to adjust the screw on the lever that presses on the master cylinder piston. If the piston is not in the correct position, when pressed or opened, it effectively blocks fluid flow and won’t drain and it won’t allow fluid to flow from the bottom up either. Screw it out a turn and try again. Turn the screw, little by little, until you can pump fluid.

Any Sherpa T or Alpina engine would fit straight in. Some had different exhaust pipe fittings onto the barrel but the engine mounts are the same.

Adjust, repair or unplug the master cylinder so it lets fluid up into the reservoir when the pads are pushed apart, no flow back means you have a problem.

HELP. USED VACUM METHOD HELD 25 INCHES COULD NOT DRAIN MASTER CYCLINDER TRIED PUMPING FROM THE BOTTOM UP..NO RESULT. ANY SUGGESTIONS

I think you narrowed it down yourself, the problem manifested after you used a pressure washer on it, so you now have water somewhere you should not have water and you need to dry it out. Fortunately water evaporates so dismantle the electrics and dry them out and they will likely function again. On a Montesa that would be the big plug with all the pins that connects to the black box, look for similar connection on your machine. ... and avoid using pressure washers they destroy motorcycles as fast as they clean them.

I have a 175 Bultaco Sherpa with a very poorly engine that apprears to have eaten its 'self in pieces. If I can find the parts I would like to rebuild the original engine at some point but does anyone have a 250 or 325 engine for sale that would fit straight in to get me riding again? Any help would be much appreciated!

Hi guys, how do I remover the black plastic inlet fitting from a grimeca rear master cylinder? I'm rebuild it and I think there may be a leak from it. Thanks

24’ mc 250. Bike ran fine last time i rode it, pressure washed it and now when the bike is off the fi light is on and solid along with the hour meter (hour meter runs if I don’t disconnect battery). Every 2 minutes or so while the bike is off and lights are on, it sounds like the fuel pump starts up for a second then will do it again in another 2 minutes.But the bike starts and runs fine. Only an issue when it’s off and sitting. Anyone ever have this happen? Any tips ?

I find this counterintuitive, but if you blip the throttle, the clutch will release better. I've only ever noticed this on trials bikes. If anyone has an explanation or theory, I'd love to hear it. I've also found that dimpling the clutch steel plates has a very positive effect on clutch release. But this is a well-know trick, that I probably first saw on circa 1970s Suzuki OE plates.

Hi I reverse bled the clutch however it still surges a bit when I select a gear although I find it weird that with the engine running in gear and the clutch pulled fully I can push the bike forward and back but if I stop the engine it won’t freewheel

Here are some footpegs that i cobbled together. They are crude and heavy but allow me to try different peg placement, they are about 1/2 inch (12-13mm) forward and lowered the same amount. I also did away with the forward slant of the stock pegs. They are much more conducive to sitting on the seat and transitioning between sitting and standing, they affect ground clearance very little. They are a big improvement for me, I hope to have a nicer set made, I'm happy with the forward position but I'd like them another 5-8mm lower.

I think you have only one choice nowadays that is the set made by SURFLEX approx £130.00 from a Trials specialist.

Hi all, I have a pair of TY250 mono forks model 38V, but the left fork leg doesn’t have a thread cut into it for the axle bolt, the plain hole is small enough diameter to tap a thread into. I’m just wondering why it wouldn’t have had the thread in it already?. Has anyone come across this before? thanks

IP booking now open. https://experience.inchperfecttrials.co.uk/em-test-ride-selby-trials-park-wimborne-dorset-bh21-3qz/ Don't forget to bring your bike and have a ride with us as well.

'98 TX270 purchase last week. I removed the clutch cover to add oil and found the fiber squeezing out the side of the pressure plate. Remove the pressure plate and found the fiber in four pieces. Any aftermarket brands recommended for this model? I'll begin my Google search after posting. Thank you all in advance!

Hi thank you I will have a look again tomorrow, when I pull the lever I would estimate the salve cylinder is moving 3-4mm

Something is wrong with your clutch mastercylinder or the slave or the hose has a hole in it. If your standard clutch isn't working then putting a new clutch in it is very unlikely to rectify that. https://youtu.be/hdHmiNNgL2I?si=SQVmrH_Ud1a_

So tonight I bled the clutch to no avail I am now thinking I will put a new clutch in it I will order the clutch tool, total pain in the a*** especially as the bike has very low hours that’s why I bought it as it looked like it had just come out of the showroom.

97 octane

again that's not unusual, give the bike time to warm up, I don't attempt to put my 4RT into gear before the fan kicks in, this also helps keep the ECU in check I believe but I don't know why.... I don't think your clutch will need re-bleeding some people get on their bike & push off gently before putting it into gear & this frees off the clutch bit this has never been a problem for me hope this helps

Hi, thanks for all the responses, Tonight I have refilled with elf gearbox oil and adjusted the lever however when I select a gear from neutral the bike jerks forward also I can’t push it while in gear with the clutch pulled. Next step for me is a clutch bleed if that doesn’t solve it I might look at a new Mitani clutch.