All Activity

Oh, OK just read your link, thanks. Looks do-able but there are probably a lot of parameters that I would need from motor mfgr. Due to the lack of any serious ramp programming on this Alltrax golf cart controller I used here, I made an audio taper (log) potbox so you have great slow precision on an otherwise sketchy throttle and you get the big splat energy when you wick it open. Almost as good as a clutch overall but way easier to ride IMHO for medium skill level riders (me). Speed (voltage) mode does not have that time lag that a torque (current) mode has so response is instant. And I 'll certainly dig deeper into your experiments. Thanks for all that .

Yes. Generic controllers are available, but lack some of EM's features. https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-5-7/sx-controller-experiments

Is it likely that the controller is available direct from siliXcon unprogrammed? Also, I should add that the Perm/ Alltrax package I used, while pretty crude by today's standards, does not use a feedback device although a brushless could emulate that with its feed back loop I suppose. I'm not a EE but have dabbled with EV controls forever.

Maybe, maybe not. EM uses custom siliXcon firmware, and the speed loop routine may have been removed to make space for other code. https://docs.silixcon.com/docs/fw/modules/esc/driver/command/driver_pid_modes

Just curious if this is possible, within reason. I have an old relationship with Phillipe at EM from 2 decades ago and am trying to rekindle that relationship for both humanitarian and access reasons.

All of EM's siliXcon controllers are password locked, so only torque mode is possible. Back when we first got the 5.7, I experimented with the Kelly controller's "balanced mode" (somehow incorporates both torque and speed modes). I found it most unintuitive compared with ICE trials bikes, so I did not bother to try speed mode. See: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-5-7/5-7-controller

I'm curious about some of the programming used on these bikes. I just got a 2024 pure sport with diaphragm clutch and the 3 mode settings. But I'm used to a bike I built and posted here years ago that uses a Perm brushed motor and an Alltrax 48V 400 amp controller. I am comparing the EM throttle response and general feel to my old 'Digit' I built. The Digit, because its a brushed motor, is by nature always in speed mode, so throttle command is proportional to the motor rpm as opposed to most brushless motors that typically (the EM) operate in torque mode where the throttle command is proportional to the current. My Digit does not have a clutch but throttle response is very crisp and both splats and wheelies are very predictable and easy to control. The EM however feels really mushy response-wise and its harder for me to control since I'm used to speed mode modulation. Has anyone programmed an EM to operate in speed mode? I also build street and road race electric bikes and have done so for many years (I'm old). On street bikes, torque mode is more intuitive but for off road use and on my EM, I think that speed mode would be better. Anyone know what I'm babbling about?

Hey I just got a 2024 Sport as well and am totally digging it, learning to use a clutch. The diaphragm clutch is awesome.

Hello, I'll be in Spain, Lloret de Mar, in November/December like every year, and I'll be doing trial/enduro excursions there. Is anyone in the area who'd like to join me? I know the region well, as I've been riding there for many years. Depending on the situation, I'll be riding my Fantic 240 or my 4RT.

If you want a good open end jaw spanner then a Stahlwille No 14 or No13 pattern combination will not spread and round the nut or you may be able to get a No21 pattern ring spanner in there. They are "simply the best" IMHO. And another thing you could do is to change the nuts from 13mm hex to the 12mm hex that are found on better quality bikes like Hondas! 😉

Crows foot spanner with a torque wrench

Last bump of the thread. There are 10 places left this morning - fortnight to go. Weather looks OK. Still some slots for the Factor-e if you want to try one. (There are two in our club now). Our practice day should be fun as well.

Thanks for that, Apart from easier starting, it should take some load of the already fragile kick start gears.

This is the type of decompressor that I was talking about https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/396896802024?_skw=chainsaw+decompressor&itmmeta=01K0ZH12R481E2RVX4FJPX53WW&hash=item5c68e494e8:g:r64AAeSwADxoggVl&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1fLhVZ9pCnvxIEPuRqCU3B2ZOAfu9fy6%2F6WgF9a6nbXFSfm57hpL5lTOdssTnqBqUtKOtg33LWZbPrilBksRs681ExCGS7r9NYQKVprn4dpc3rDt2MLuIUhoplS8KeKoG1yKz1BTpjNWGXROZIiqD5Aw1sgDp8jlUjyMeJgiuDjXyxLCuEhPWJtHchCLtFwW2HfMHYcbdS6eai7IxU1bEM1KfPbA90mS5LOqQrBb4pYLuX0yd5%2FwRmkeWs0IOCsxf4KL6zTUS7U64O4ELHLH%2BZrDtsaoBvJlGKgMuy9BB48rQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_ashPGHZg

Yes! Use quality tools.

Yeah have since ordered that little brass pressure pawl also a new spider as the centre looks worn in motion trial's recommended a 20 mm spider (base to tip of the leg) And to grind down to 15 mm instead of the standard 13 mm many thanks for your help

I can rock the bike And click up thro the gears And back down I'm pretty sure Now that it's a very tired clutch as plates look IN pretty poor condition 😔

1/2 inch AF open ended will be a good tight fit on 13 mm nut?

Hey everyone, just a question about can I fit a decompression kit to my 1985 Montesa 304. Cheers from Australia.

Thanks everyone... Honda GB have no records, nor do Honda (Japan), according to Honda GB, but HOC UK have dated it as a 1979 MY, using factory records, which DVLA won't accept... as it's to correct an incorrectly registered vehicle! I'll keep trying! Does anyone know which UK Honda dealership is the largest - maybe they'll have access to old production records?

Use of the clutch is not *required* to change gear. You can test the gearbox separately from the clutch. If you have no experience doing this, here is a method: Put the bike on a stand. Although not mandatory, it's probably best to remove the chain. (But you will have the extra inertia of the rear wheel to overcome.) Remove the spark plug and flywheel cover. Turn the engine by hand using the flywheel. Attempt to change gears while rotating the flywheel back and forth. It will only take a small fraction of a complete engine revolution to select the next gear. If you have not removed the chain, you may find it easier to rotate the rear wheel instead.

This is obviously only my opinion - But several things, the RS200 was never sold as a UK model, so it would be extremely unlikely that you would ever find one correctly registered from new in the UK - So a later age plate doesn't look out of place. It was also built by what became HRC, so not a standard production line bike, but more a small volume hand built machine.. So I'd be surprised if anywhere outside of Honda in Japan would have any records at all. And at that time many new bikes were not registered when new, often by second or third owners. You have a registration document for your bike which by law gives it an official identity in the UK, so it can be used on the road legally and the Police via the DVLA database would be able to return it to you in the hopefully unlikely event that it was stolen and recovered. I think its best just to stick with what you already have, maybe it is not technically 100% correct, but does it really matter ? I have a 1986 RTL250s which I am going to register, just to give it an identity in case of theft. I've yet to find any info on them relating to production numbers etc, and I've read all I can find on the net including the Honda trials history website. I also have the Four Stroke Finale book, but again no detail... The main thing is that we CAN register old bikes, where my brother lives in Portugal it is impossible to register old bikes...

Hi just replied to your previous post with a bit of general information before I saw this one. The parts book is what I had originally, don’t think there’s much else out there. You can see the chain tubes on there and the tank/seat bulges, but that book shows a full width hub which I think were the earlier models. The clutch mechanism was a bit suspect in that the little pawl 2863.106 was made of poor material and its square hole wasn’t a very accurate fit on the bottom of the operating lever shaft 3863.081. Both the square on the shaft and the hole seemed to wear easily along with the finger end of the pawl. A tiny amount of wear in any of that means pretty rubbish clutch operation.

Oh and it would have had the traditional montesa feature of plastic tubes for the chain to run in which floated on a bracket mounted on the rear spindle. It would be nice to see more photos, they were a decent bike really, underrated in my opinion, apart from the brakes which like most bikes at the time just stopped being brakes as soon as you got them wet !