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Rim lock I would buy a light one, but my bikes are a lot lighter they all work if you don't pinch the tube mounting it and that rarely happens. ... I can easy spot the cheapest one there and that would work just fine.

fish glue! lol...love it. not sure i'll use sheet metal screws (yet, anyway!) is there a good brand of rim lock i should get? i see fleabay has quite a few options for 2.15" ...any recommendations appreciated! do all these basically do exactly the same thing?

Want to know a Canadian backwoods Trials tire fix secret, the worlds best tire sealant is Fish Glue. I even used it to fix holes in an inner tube tire that has sheet metal screws in it for riding on ice and snow 😎

Seen it done with sheet metal screws through the side of the rim and into the bead, but that's a bit backwoods.

Almost shocking that rim has no hole for a rim lock, hole is typically not same size as the valve stem hole. For the tire to slide that direction it was under brake force Rim lock is a safety feature for braking because it might suck real bad when your brakes don't work.

Thank you so much Lemur, appreciate the insight and advice! I'm excited to learn more and do this myself. looking at this pic its definitely not coming straight out and does appear to be at a bit of an angle.. Q/ so when i drill the hole to install a rim lock is there a 'best' place on the rim..I'm guessing opposite the valve stem? Thank you all for helping, i learn a great deal here from your wisdom and experience!

Rode 4RT for decades and only used the same all season hydraulic transmission oil I used in the farm tractors and excavator in the transmission. Regular Honda oil in the engine. Filters are easy available and inexpensive. Never have clutch and transmission problems even in winter sub zero riding 2T or 4T Using Kubota branded oil at the moment, check out your local farm supply

You know you need rim locks or some other way to secure the tire to the rim when the valve stem goes crooked or disappears into the rim or gets sheared off depending on how you have the valve stem locked down, I put one side of the tire on and then push the tube in from the other side tube deflated, install the valve stem, rim locks are in place with the nut backed off completely, push the rim locks in by the bolt and nut when you are mounting the second beed, the rim lock is where you need to install the bead first then work around the rim to about the 3:o'clock position to finish mounting the tire. Don't need soap or water with mounting a tube tire except to test for leaks and to wash the wheel before you work on it.

Thanks Lineaway, appreciate the encouragement to change the tire myself! no, it's not tubeless..has inner tube....i'm thinking though should i drill a hole and add a rim lock? i saw on the FWOJ thread (page 19) brewtus added one....just wondered if it were necessary and a good safer option?

@Steveyboy vibrations through the bars can happen if the bolts holding the front of the bash plate to the frame are not totally tightened up also make sure all the motor bolts that hold it in the frame are tight , they do not need to be stupid tight or the motor lugs may snap.

@ Steveyboy The only way to get rid of the noises is to have all those parts renewed IE the kick gear the idler gear the clutch basket and the bush and the primary drive , very expensive . It makes more sense to replace the cluch basket bush/bearings and use a grinder on any chipped damaged gears to smooth off their surfaces where they mesh.

@Steveyboy In short yes it will make lots of noise and it is normal for this to happen regularly if used a lot on a Pro model , a pair of gears for the Kick mechanism are around £200.00 these days and the best way to make sure you don't have to buy a new pair every 5 minutes is to slowly engage the gears before you kick the bike over and also when you fit the kick start do not position it on the splines too far forwards there are two positions that were used by factory riders through the years those were 12 o'clock and about 7 mins past 12. look at old WTC videos on YouTube to see these.

Hi Had a look at my clutch tonight as it is terribly rattly which I know these bikes are known for it. I found these 2 chips on the idler gear would they have any effect on the noise? I guess the bart gear looks a bit tasty too, although it kicks up on 2nd kick from cold and 1st kick when warm. The clutch basket and plates all look sound. I was worried the clutch basket would be worn out but it looks good. The only other thing I have noticed is the bush/bearing on the shaft going to the gearbox has some play in it. I've tried to attach a video but it won't upload for some reason. It all seems to work ok but I get quite a bit of vibration through the bars too. Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks

It's just an old Aprilia model name. Here's a pic of one: https://www.james-pratt.com/2023/01/working-on-my-very-rare-aprilia-280-climber-trials-motorcycle/

I'm from the U.S and I don't mean to be a smartass but, I am not familiar with the term "climber". What does that refer to? Thanks , LaVen

Is it a tubless or not? Just putting a tire on is pretty simple. Alot easier if you heat the new tire up first. Laying it on the dazh of your vehivle is the easiest. Some sunshine needed. Soap and water mix and lube well. Lots of vids on it. Good luck.

I have always assumed there was a sponsorship deal. A friend calls that oil "Elf Tears".

I also wonder why Montesa recommends very expensive oil for the transmission. I used that for the first change but plan to look for alternatives. I ride in mostly dry conditions.

Hello friends, yet another noob question..please forgive my continued ignorance and inexperience! I have looked online prior to posting but just got confused by all the conflicting info out there. I am going to try to replace the rear tire myself (never done it before) and have a question regarding rim locks. The bike doesn't currently have one and I run at about 10psi and haven't had any problems (it was like this when I got it). Should I put one in now just to be safe- is that the done thing, or is it ok without? And if so, does the rim lock go in first and then you mount the tire, or do you mount the tire then put in the rim lock? I think I need to drill a hole in the rim too for installation on the reflex, yeah? and it is a 2.15" size - is that correct? Is there anything else I need to think about when installing a new tire? I was going to try the zip tie method. sorry for so many noob questions! just dont want to mess it all up, lol.Thanks so much in advance for any help or advice. Truly appreciated!

4T Trials bikes typically have separate oil for the engine and transmission, the transmission oil needs changing when it contains water or the clutch will cause problems as the transmission never gets hot enough to boil the water out. If you are doing lots of water crossings or power wash your motorcycle regularly you will need to change the oil when the clutch starts to make strange sounds or act up. ... They only hold half a litre in each reservoir so it is not a significant cost to change out. The separate engine and transmission oil is a great design because it allows you to use inexpensive hydraulic oil in the transmission suited to wet clutch applications and change it frequently. Separate engine oil enables you to run high tech multi-grade engine oils in the engine if you wish without causing wet clutch problems associated with friction modifiers. Water is slightly less of an issue in the engine oil where the oil is in contact with very hot parts but it has a paper oil filter that will have issues if that contains water. ... Do you power wash your bikes, operate in a wet environment and do lots of deep water crossings? <- you need to change out the oils and filters more often compared to the guy riding a dirty dirt bike in an arid environment.

From my maintenance log, both oils every 15 - 20 hours. Filter every other oil change. I'd say it depends a lot on conditions of use. Sending a drain oil sample for analysis can be enlightening. Don't wait 40 hours to check the level.

If it is a radial it will have an R stamp in the tire size, and/or clearly state Radial on the tire sticker. If it does not say Radial or R then it is not a radial tire. Radial tires typically cost more. You can safely run a rear trials tire in either direction on a trials bike, happens all the time. One rim lock might not even do it, you might need two rim locks if the tire does not fit the rim tight, two rim locks on the rear was common in the days before radial tubeless tires became common. If the tire slides on the rim it will typically shear off the valve stem leaving you with a tube that can not be patched. All of that just to run a cheaper tire that performs less, weighs more and is far harder to install. Tubes and rim locks are no longer cheap and you might even spend more coin to convert to tube type compared to just running the correct tire. Tubeless rim and tires have a different bead shape compared to tube type.

Yeah the tubeless rim seems flatter than a tube type. I was going to use a tube. Original owner had a tube in it. Probably wouldn’t seal on the rim anymore. I have the IRC trials tires, I think they are radials and directional. Would have to drill the rim for a rim lock which I would rather not do.

An polyurethane strap for handlebar wireshttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7060446

The manual shows 15 hours as the oil/ filter change interval for a 2018 300. That sounds like an MX bike. Meanwhile, the Beta 4T manual shows 40 hours. What interval are people using?