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Thks for the response, yes i usually run the carb fuel down after riding but my techno has sufffered from leaking fuel since I picked her up. Its hard to see wwhere the fuel is coming from but the back of the crank case behind the carb is usually where I can spot the problem. I thought it was the float sticking but I always have the issue and it might be persistent just disguised abit when the motor is running. Prob need to fit a catch tank on the overflow pipe and see if its fills up after starting. Lanyard sounds easy , thank you Here's a pic of the switch as per a ebay ad, they have the same issue as me , the thumb part of the switch is missing which is typical of 90's dirtbikes , i have a enduro bike ith the same problem and just taped it up to not loose any water in the switch . A way of using the switch would be better if anyone can think of one ?

I finally solved the problem with great help from Inch Perfect Trials. It was a fault in the wiring loom. I changed the loom and all is now well. Once I have done a full trial or a practice day I'll do an autopsy on the old look to see if I can pin down exactly where the fault is. With the plastics and all the cable ties off, I did find that wiggling around all the wires at the back-end would very occasionally solve the problem, but then a minor touch and it would come back. Also the symptoms changed; from beep-beep whatever the throttle position to no beep and no ability to engage a map.

Sport80 is a generic sports administration system that the ACU has been using for a couple of years. I'm not sure if it has inherent flaws or is simply badly implemented in the motorcycle sport environment, but at least it's not as bad as when it started. Pre-entry of trials is normally done through Sport80, though it doesn't have to be. Some ACU clubs stick with entry on the day and some use this simpler and easier alternative system: https://mototrial.co.uk/trial-entry/ AMCA clubs are generally enter-on-the-day, but occasionally use their own system or the Mototrial one. As Lemur said, pre-entry is much better for the organising clubs (Sport80 notwithstanding!) but enter-on-the-day is preferred by casual riders who can decide at the last minute whether to ride or not.

If it's anything like the rest of the world, pre-entry started because of covid rules and will likely remain because pre-entry is of huge benefit to the people that organize and host observed trials competitions. The only people that resist pre-registration are the ones that don't take entry to the event seriously and don't care if the event is successful or not, it's all about not wanting to forfeit the pre-entry fee.

Hi everyone Been out of the scene for a while, fancy another wobbling session... Entry process seems to of changed, why can,t I enter on day? What is this "Sport80" ? Thanks in advance Whiskey

When you have finished riding, turn the tap off and run the fuel level down in the float bowl before you stop the motor. Otherwise the evaporating fuel can make the float needle sticky. You may even have a passing fuel tap which could exacerbate this effect by allowing lots of premix to evaporate between rides. As for the lanyard killswitch, it can be wired in parallel with the standard kill button/switch, so the standard kill button/switch can stay. Maybe post a photo showing the "actual" slide switch you are asking about

I used some vasoline but crucially lay the bike on its side so gravity is assisting the rubber o ring from poping out .

Carb keeps overflowing when it sbeen standing for a while, weeks rather then days. I,ve tapped the float bowl with a piece of wood to help free up the float if its snagged in the carb but genrally makes no difffernce. After a bit of warming up as she starts really easy , it seems to stop overflowing but I could be wrong as it could be collecting oin the bash plate area. Any tips on curing this , what is the proper float height ? I've cleaned the needle valve and it appears to be sealing ok when the carb is off for testing. I need to fit a wrist lanyard as I think all trials call for these now , do you have to butcher the electrics to fit these as I would prefer to leave the switch gear for road legal uses shoud I got pulled by mr plod. Talkin of switchgear the actual thumb switch has lost the outer button that allows you to slide the switch on /off is there a mod I could do to allow the switch to be operated ith my thumb as opposed to a little screwdriver I am currently using to slide the flush part of the movable swith that is left on the switch gear. Thanks in Advance chaps

Two very good points that I had forgotten.

Just need a new air filter and shock buttom (rotten foam). New engine oil and coolant. Run perfect.

Amazing bike in amazing conditions.

Do Not wear loose baggy clothing and boot laces that can catch in the moving parts. Proper trials riding boots are every bit as important as a helmet considering your first crash will likely be at crawling speed. The boots also work great for rough terrain hiking and chainsaw work if you don't end up using them for riding.

Welcome along to the wonderful world of trials ! Can only really echo what Tr1AL has said, best thing is to go along to an event & talk to people, they’re a friendly lot & they’ll give you more local lowdown and point in the direction of other events, dealers, useful people to get to know, maybe even a bike for sale. I’d suggest going with a cheaper bike initially, even if you can afford new or nearly new, as echoing why lemur said ‘crashes are likely to happen’ and it’s easy to smash a £150 mudguard. (A repair on an older bike doesn’t seem as bad). Having said that, somehow you learn to anticipate ‘get offs’ and mitigate the damage to bike & rider as you get more experience. Usual checks on purchase apply, general condition - should be clean if it’s been looked after, everything should work so - starts easily, brakes, clutch & gears all work & wear parts are good. Most bikes wear parts are quite easily replaceable if you’re anything like handy with spanner’s, but when comparing bikes for sale be aware that a pair of decent tyres (Michelin as above recommendation) will cost £250 ish, chain & sprockets maybe £150 so factor that in to negotiations. Tyres need the ‘cubes/nobbles’ to have sharp corners particularly at the driving edge (forward facing at the top of the tyre), but they can be turned on the rim to double up on working life. You’ll find a lot of talk about set up on here but just go with basics as per Tr1AL and find your own way as you go along. If you start to ride events or regular practice sessions amongst other riders you’ll also get continuing advice as you go. Be prepared for some tongue in cheek abuse too, I often find self deprecation is a useful personal quality when riding (or picking me or the bike up out of a stream) 😂. It’s definitely harder than it looks so be prepared, but go and enjoy, you probably won’t be the only one making silly mistakes as you start off, but there are usually loads of classes so you can start with simpler stuff. GOOD LUCK & please report back on here or ask more questions.

Hi Jimg, so sorry for a slow response to your questions. firstly my bike isn’t a jumbo, it’s an 83 TL320. Rest assured the shorter springs won’t cause slip on your 350. At the end of the day both 240,280 and 350 are downrated mx engines that would need the strong springs for that application and furthermore theyd be clutch less shifted so a heavy clutch wouldn’t be noticeable. I think 340mm is the stock shock length but I run rockshocks 360mm with no noticeable difference, if anything you gain a tad more travel when the bike is weighted. I also swapped the well tired fork springs for a pair from REH, a hard one in one leg and a medium in the other, they are shorter than the originals by about 20mm but a longer spacer solves this. As long as the springs are longer than the travel your fine. I recently rebuilt the engine and fitted a clutch hub off an Aprilia TX311, this has the last plate as part of the casting so uses one driven plate less than the SWM clutch and has a far superior actuator bearing. I get no drag at all with this set up even if the bike is stood for a while. If you go down this route just make sure you get the 3mm thrust washer that fits under the splined tab washer, the SWM uses a 1.5mm thrust washer with the standard set up. Hope there’s some useful info for you all.

Find some old guy that has a great place to ride owns 2 trials bikes and does nothing much else but ride and wrench trials bikes 👍 How do you feel about crashes because that is likely to happen, if you are in the habit of participating in rough sports you will likely have no problem. Riding a trials bike on trials terrain is a full body workout if you are doing it right, that will surprise you.

Nice photos, thanks for posting Brian

I have not seen any specs for that bike.

Hi mate did you get any results using a R4A plug. I just purchased a 300 JBR and was thinking about using a No4 plug.

www.tricksinthesticks.co.uk or www.inchperfecttrials.co.uk These have bikes to hire or take your own and pay less. It is harder than it looks but don't be put off . if you stick at it and put some time in it is a good cheap sunday out (Entries cost around £20 )and there are plenty of trials events around where you are. Find events @ www.tmxnews.co.uk/ whats on this week-end. Southend & District MCC has a trial on 30th NOV @ Poles wood (NEAR THE SECRET BUNKER), Ongar Rd ,Kelvedon Hatch . CM15 0LA Starts 10.30am finish around 15.30pm Riders will be there around 9.00am if you want to ask people questions about bikes and how to get started in the sport . Too find the venue look for a day-glo orange triangle at the side of the road that points to the entrance. Its free to watch and go in for spectators. There is usually a burger van at most trials events if you want to eat/drink there. Most important thing in Trials is a well prepared bike ( Handle bar and bar lever position makes a lot of difference plus I found that oddly footrest type and position made a big difference also) . Tyre pressures are very important in the newest tyres you can afford the best being Michelin X11 . Pressures for mud 5 psi Front 3/3.5 psi Rear and for riding on stone and Rock or dry conditions 6psi Front 4 psi Rear those being the usual starting points . Others will no doubt chime in with their recommendations.

The std 300 Beta in stock mode is weak. Beta used to have a bunch of factory parts to make it zing. My son had a 2015 with all the goodies and it was a beast. On the other hand I spent a day riding Ray`s bike and it was a monster, but was quite fun! If you look at the stock plate on the left, you can see the witness marks were a few springs moved off center. Just because you use different springs does not mean they don`t work correctly. The Japanese put alot of thought in the aftermarket parts they use.

Hi. I have just purchased a 2022 JBR 300 at the weekend it was a bit of a rough runner but got it nice and smooth now. However the exhaust seems extremely loud in comparison to the Beta I have, is it normal or am I missing something, I took the exhaust tip off and there is plenty packing in there. any advice appreciated. cheers.

50 yr old bucket lister… grew up watching Kick Start! Did push bike trials as a younger and always wanted to progress to motorbike. Where can I go to try it out? Essex, UK based….