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Yes, I agree it looks like the casting is made for both. It definitely goes from outside to inside, I thought the unused side would be blocked or capped. I wondered if anyone had the 125 and could confirm or deny?

Hi, have quite a loud whining noise that comes and goes with clutch engagement. When its disengaged there's no noise at all. Had the clutch apart and all seems fine, did wonder if it was the basket bearing but there's no play. Haven't changed oil type (nano trans) but has fresh oil. Any suggestions welcomed. While im here does anybody have any tips for putting the clutch cover o ring in place? Has literally just taken me longer to put the cover back on than take the clutch to bits, inspect it, clean it and reassemble it! Edit: 2012 250 2t

I'm used to the PHBL, but your VHST looks like this photo: https://www.speed-parts.nl/carburateur-dellorto-vhst-26-mm-bd-flat-slide.html The casting probably was made that way so it could have mixture and idle screws on either side. You could test with compressed air.

Hello, I wonder if anyone can help please? My son has a rev 3 125 2006 with the dellorto VHST 26 carb. I have taken the carb out to clean it and check jets, it has a threaded hole here which leads straight into the carb bore, should this be blanked off? I can't believe it's right to let unfiltered air straight into the engine?! Also does anyone know the standard jets/needle position for the dellorto? Thank you.

Look on the under side of the fuel tank year will be stamped in to tank

Any equipment challenge would probably only arise in the case of a championship. You can walk through the pits ay any AHRMA event and see several bikes that violate some of the rules. There are some riders who live to stretch or skirt the rules, whatever they can get away with, I think it's part of the fun for them. Just ride and have fun. I've ridden a number of AHRMA Trials events and never even been through a tech inspection.

Likely true. In roadracing, tech (scrutineering) is about safety. Illegal modifications must be protested by other competitors.

This is their rule book. https://www.ahrma.org/ahrma-handbook/ I'm no expert but the few AHRMA events I have seen even have a class that allows modern bikes so you should be able to find a class for anything. IIRC, otter frames are not legal for their pre 65 class. I have seen TY175s with extended swing-arms and lay down shocks competing but I don't think they meet the letter of the rules. Based on absolutely nothing, I wonder if no one is too picky about the rules unless you are going for a championship.

Hello everyone, I am selling mine and my dad's classic Fantic 125 trials bikes and I am after some advice. We took part in some classic trials a few years ago now just for a bit of fun and they have been stored in my garage unused for the past three years. They were both running when they went into storage but not now, probably due to the old fuel in the tanks. One is very original (full original exhaust) and the other is in better condition (semi-restored by my dad, new footpegs, steering lock cut off and a few other bits). Not sure on the year for either bike. I've looked under the frame and can see the stamps but can't make out a year on either bike. My dad seems to recall they are 1979 and 1980. Basically, I'm not sure where is the best place to sell these bikes, an auction or Autotrader maybe? Or how much they are worth now. Also, is there a way of knowing what year they are? To sell them together or separately? Feel free to make an offer if anyone on here is interested. Bikes are located in Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire. Any hints or advice would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks, Sam.

Try Steve Goode in England. Also In Motion Trials has quite a few parts as well.

To be clear - the idiot refers to me. I know very little of AHRMA beyond a couple of brief conversations with other local vintage enthusiasts. The general sentiment shared was that AHRMA rules can be somewhat strict when it comes to acceptable vintage bikes. Certainly more so than local club events. Having just returned from Scotland where I was fortunate to compete in the Leven 2-day trial, I'm on sensory overload with all the incredibly cool pre-65 bikes I saw over there. And, quite fortunately - I've an opportunity to get some bikes into a container to ship back to the US. I can ride anything I saw over there in my local club vintage classes, as air cooled and drum brakes are the only requirements. I'm curious where AHRMA might draw the line with some of these highly modified bikes I saw. Drayton frames, REH forks, custom hubs/wheelsets, billet yokes, etc. And, to be clear - I'm not looking to win any championships. Just looking to enjoy more days in local vintage competitions, as our local club events have limited vintage turnout. I'll not be one to complain about being DQ'ed if I run afoul of an AHRMA rule or grey area, but I'd prefer not to show up only to find out I can't ride. Thanks for any education!

Howdy, hoping someone may be able to help me locate a kick start spindle (part number 1320.07.110). Engine seals and rings would be handy too Thanks for your help Tony

Look at your wheels, they have date and year like 10-19 then you have a MY20. 03-20 is stil a MY20 but 08-20 is a MY21.

keihin settings update 48/120 Rotor -10mm (around -500grs) Alloy footrest Xlight tyres Resurfacing the brake discs Dry weight : 72.9kg (stock : 77.2kg dry) Better handling, brakes, clutch, reving ... this 315R is way easier and fun !

Fujigas Replica mudguards flat tank gold wheels

Thanks to François Glineur (on the Beta Techno Owners Facebook group) for reproducing the sticker. Sprido paints (reference: SP00159).

Too easy, sandpaper the shiny parts off, those are the high spots, eventually the entire pad material will be in contact with steel and you will have full braking again.

Mike Komer at the Tryals shop in Locke, NY may be helpful with ideas on the rear brake https://tryalsshop.com/

Hmmm!. try as I might I cant find anyone near me (Westchester, NY) who can do this..the one warm lead turned out to be a guy who only works on Harleys. none of the machine shops wanted to know So, with that said- would that brake arm extender make any kind of difference at all, or is it just a waste of time? i did indeed check to see the shiny bits on the pads that are in contact with the drum..and yeah, it aint much! lol. is there anything else i could do? bike only has 1700 miles on it.

Apologies for not closing this out sooner! Thank you all for help, it was pretty easy as you said it would be! definitely helped me grow in confidence as its another thing Ive now learnt to do. The hardest part was trying to get the valve stem back through the hole! Appreciate you all.... now to the anti judder clutch kit.... lol

How old is the battery? How many charge cycles? Conduct your experiment again while measuring voltage across the battery. If the battery voltage drops precipitously just as the wheel touches the ground, the battery is probably bad. You will have to be quick to observe the drop because the controller will be likely to cut the power due to an "under voltage" condition (and the battery voltage will bounce back immediately).