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I got my 21 TRS 300 registered in Kalifornia (green) sticker out of state bike

21 TRS 300 I replaced seals and shaft and pressure relief valve all is good for 6 months and it's leaking again . Is there different seals I can put in it ?

That is because S3 messed up making them

Hi, My name is Kutang. Motocycle is my passion in any form. I love reparing bike and riding them. I like to verify and conform my thoughts. See you in my new topic about Beta Evo 300.

Hi does it matter which way around the spring is fitted?

Hi Sergio, I am very surprised the User's manual reports that the upper right leg is compression...checking better older and newer manuals all report that right upper leg adjustment is compression! Please see screenshot attached!

Try with an easy test, install a new original Keihin #98 main jet, the one in the bike may have a smaller hole due to corrossion

Ineresting project. But you missed the boat with no ground clearance.

Hello, It Is a very long time that I don't show any of my bike but I was very busy for my oldtimer bikes; here you are the extrema 230, engine based on Honda xl200 case but inside a lot of trials items, drum brakes, superlight marzocchi forks, superlight fournales monoshock, home made frame; weight without fuel 63kg; all comments are appreciated, if required better details available, best regards.

I just sand them dry and put them on dry to break them in. One thing I did run across recently was wedge shaped pads, one end contacted before the other. I had to keep sanding the high side until the pad face was parallel to the steel backing plate. Might want to watch for that, they performed poorly out of the package. Bought a set of pads with lots of brass flakes in them, those were garbage and I went back to Galfer reds.

Got a free online owner's manual with the bike but had to pay for an online repair/service manual which, frankly, has very little useful info in it. But, GasGas is KTM now ...

You have to buy a GasGas service manual? that sucks, it should come with a new bike.

Beta looks mint, You have certainly made the right decision, It will last years and they ride lovely, turn on a sixpence and are the easiest bike to ride in my opinion,With a bit of maintanance wont cost alot to run.

try some high temperature gasket sealant this will stop any leaking exhaust gasses

Yes, every trial. It's something I've done ever since I raced cars and karts as they were very prone to glazing when burbling back to the paddock with hot brakes. I've continued the procedure with the trials bike because I always find a film of dried mud on the face of the pads. It's interesting that you would point your finger at the brake cleaner. The can is nearly empty so it has been used successfully quite a few times and the problem has only appeared at the last two trials. I've just re-prepped the bike and put the old pads back in so I'll see what they are like. Before the weekend I'll also have a sneaky ride down the road to check the brake beforehand.

An interesting side note in all of this - several online sources state the torque specs for the 300 head bolt is 18 ft/lbs. I just bought the Gas Gas service manual - it states the spec to be 11.1 ft/lbs. Second lesson in all of this - even multiple sources on the web do not ensure accuracy. Dang, this is a maddening lesson. 😡

Thanks for the pointers. I've got lots of years with a torque wrench, but what I had prior to this mess were too big for the job. I ordered a 'highly rated' 1/4" drive wrench off of Amazon ... and it didn't work. Shame on me for not testing it first on something less critical.

Hints for all on reassembly; torque charts are based on wet threads not dry. Service manuals or the net sometimes give inappropriate torque values, triple check them because many confuse inch pounds with foot pounds during conversion, or they are just printed wrong. If you are not using a 1/4" drive torque wrench on M6 or M8 bolts it might be the wrong tool for the job, I've also seen people not use the handle correctly, the handle pivots at the correct distance to the tool, it doesn't flop back and forth like that without reason. If unfamiliar with operation practice on something that does not matter first. 👍

If all else fails; see if the casting will take aluminum weld, fill the holes with weld, drill new holes and tap them to the standard size.

Biggest difference other then cost: HeliCoil is a coil spring and will not provide a watertight repair at the threads. TimeSert sells a threaded insert and threads can be made to seal water pressure if you end up drilling into the water jacket. Using a drill press to start the tap straight into the clearance hole is a good practice. The manufacturers catalogue will detail the size of the clearance hole required.

Thanks for the pointer to the TIme Sert. These are new to me and, dang, they're expensive (but cheaper than a new cylinder). As for the OEM vs third, I found a couple options out of Europe ... but learned they're for the years up to 2022 ... and no longer available. Do you have any insights into how much room there is for an insert? It looks like the space between the thread well and the cooling tunnels is quite thin.

Id go for the repair, youve nothing to lose considering buying a replacement is effectively scrapping it. Time serts are better than helicoils. Try it yourself if youre feeling up to it, or give it to a small machine shop

The short story - the threads for two cylinder head bolts are stripped in the cylinder barrel. The bitter story - DO NOT buy torque wrenches from Amazon. My question to this esteemed body - should I replace the cylinder or try helicoil or some such repair? If it is to replace, OEM or third-party?

Actually it's 163cc. You can't go any larger on these motors without boring into the cam chain tunnel. With the 163cc barrel fitted, you only have about 3 mm of metal left.

Between every trial you do that?! Usually after a power wash and dry my brake is as good as it was at the start of the trial, and if it isnt i go straight to the dousing with cold water. I would almost certainly say its the brake cleaner you are using. Is it general automotive stuff? Ive never cleaned a brake with that and it hasnt been crap after. I think its grand for car use where theres loads of oil and brake fluid around and then followed up with lots of heat to burn whatever residue it leaves behind off, but its never left a good sharp brake on my motorbike or mountainbike. Even rubbing your fingers across it afterwards it feels slightly slippery. You would probably be better just using pure IPA