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Anyone any idea why my clutch is pushing against my casing when I am pulling it in just out new plate in now clutch won't work

Brother Timdog, now that I've got the bug again and the mental illness has reappeared, few questions regarding reflex upgrades if you have the time. Whilst not a total newb - and fully endorse the rhetoric of good riding technique first, upgrades second, over the years I've owned a few bikes, fantics, betas and most recently did a nice TY250 resto ('feet up fun' on here helped me through it all!).. though first time with a 4 stroke trials plodder. had several XT 400/500s mind you though back in the day... Question 1 - seeing as the previous owner installed bar risers that raise and push forward the bars, would that negate the need for 'down and back' pegs- or would they still add a further improvement? would the 100 squid for the pegs and mounts be worth it or should i spend the tenner just to weld on some extensions? Question 2 - Shocks are on max setting, whilst still ok (ish)- if i swap them out, am i correct that i need 400mm 50lb? Question 3- What is a trials specific CDI and a high lift cam please? Previous owner (who recommissioned the barn find bike) installed a battery eliminator in the rear bag and a voltage regulator in the headlight unit if that helps... i know i could just get a nice modern bike and be done, but being street legal, quiet and riding to my local (secret) trails is the only reason of having the reflex. plus i like to tinker (badly) Thanks so much for the input or any other suggestions! learn SO SO much here. peace and progress! Johnny

Hi is anyone selling a short gear lever for a beta rev 250 thanks mark

It looks just yours is the model before mine ie original ty frame modified. Mines a mk1 godden frame my grandad ordered it new from john in 1980ish and is a 320 as well. I've just started to sort it out as it's sat in my dad's garage for about 20 years. I have swapped forks and wheels to mono 1s but the others were seized solid

Hi, Does anyone know where I can obtain an electronic copy for a 2024? Thanks!

Was it put back correctly. It only goes together one way. The finger tower has a notch in it and the pressure plate has an aligning mark.

mine failed internally, didnt fancy the £150+ for a new one so replced with manual version. basically a bernard mower fuel tap (M10 X 1 thread) https://sjtrials.com/products/beta-evo-rev-80-fuel-tap?variant=36215746625704&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&srsltid=AfmBOopCHYgFHOdrIJIDj9G5nNaVCq1ZammULxk_gtt_tgsWnTlV80zZeFw

That U shaped bracket came with the footpegs

I agree with lineaway, I have seen and fixed more than one buddies brakes because of contaminated pads over the years and most often its an oil based product, including but not limited to WD40, that got on the pads. Comments are always something like, but its just a little over spray (of what ever the product was), and no matter how much cleaning, heating, or other attempts I have tried to get it working again in the end only proper cleaning of the disk, new pads, and a good heat cycle and water quench has been the fix. My exp and 2 cents for what its worth.

Although this information is for North America https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_identification_number many European manufacturers use the 10th character in the same way. So M would be 1991 or 2021. Does that seem reasonable for the bike?

Can't figure out what year my TXT300 is. I've read many of these and it says the 10th digit which is M.... no idea what M is though. Any help is appreciated. I'd like to sell it. Thoughts on price? Runs great. VTRTG 3003 M120 6138

Yes, mine is a 250A. The kick stand mounts to the main frame and there is not a lot of space to move the peg. Thanks. Did you use weld on peg mounts or make your own?

Hi Feetupfun That's very observant ! I knew there was an issue as I couldn't fit the original speedo, and thought I had the front wheel in wrong way round, but the brake stay was in the wrong place 🤔 Now it makes sense that the forks are reversed. I did strip the forks down and fitted new chrome stanchions as they were quite pitted. I should have marked L & R ! Thanks for you reply

It's very nice to see an original Yam framed Majesty looking so beautiful. Something looked unusual and I've just worked out that it's that the fork legs and front wheel are fitted the opposite way to normal

This is an old photo of one of my TY250s. The lower cross tube on some models of the TY250 has a threaded hole, as this one has, which I think has a TY250B frame. People who have a TY250 without the threaded hole fit a threaded steel plug into the tube. Some are welded, some with an interference fit. The stand is not an issue on this bike. It is mounted to the right hand side of the swingarm and does not interfere with the footpeg. It sounds like your TY250 might be an A model with the stand mounted to the main frame under the left side footpeg. This is an old photo. It now has countersunk internal hex titanium screws instead of those external hex head screws.

yeah, obviously there is Frys Bottom. Thats about it. I've set up a petition, on change dot org regarding the planning application If you'd like to sign that. https://chng.it/cswzDC92xb

Wd 40 will totally destroy your pads.

I'm not sure a response to an old post will show up. I like this simple style of mount and want to do something similar. What did you do to accept the lower bolt in the frame? The tube is quite thin. Did you weld in a threaded plug? Was it tricky to avoid interference with the kickstand?

I have just purchased the forks with the triple clamps + front axle + stem bearings, but not the front wheel. ¿How did you fit yours? I wish it’s only about fitting different wheel bearings and/or wheel spacers…

If you're buying the complete front end then it's basically down to the fitment of the triple clamps into the 315 frame. You might want to ask what the measurement are between the clamps and be prepared to be on the hunt for different head bearings. I wonder if the 4rt clamps are a direct swap.

Part of the reason I am so particular over cleaning pads and discs is because I use WD40. I don't think the WD40 is the cause of the problem as I think you are implying.

I found a 2013 jotagas 40mm marzocchi’s, so I’m going to purchase them. Does the front wheel direct-fit with these forks? (Same as yours)

I agree with you that brake model is a pos. Had one just like it seize up on only the outside pistons and it was braking only on one pad. Worked again after I used the hydraulics to break the stuck pistons free (with a bang) so assumed it was corroding on the inside and lost faith in it, bought a Beta brake to replace it and then ran into some issues with the size of the hydraulic fittings. I've never experienced this problem with the brake models fitted with a bolt or a spring pin to hold the pads in place. Speculating it was related to covid era production shortages just like the 'pink' rims and anodized parts that came on my 2021 TRS 300 e-start that were suppose to be 'red' but material shortages caused production problems with the anodizing process and were allowed to pass quality control due to covid times, that's my take on it.

Did all that. I took pads out pumped pistons out a little cleaned them real good I cleaned were the pads fit in the groves. There is extra slack in the adjuster. I have a friend with a 22 oneR 250 and it came with the caliper with a pin just like new Gasgas I think that is nicer caliper I don't like the one I have with ears on the pad .

No, TRS still use this Caliper on all the ONE R models. The symptoms sound like you have no freeplay at the master cylinder. Check the actuating pin on the inside of the lever. It MUST have some freeplay and not be applying ANY PRESSURE on the Master Cylinder piston when the lever is in it's relaxed position. Use the jam nut (10mm wrench) to loosen the pin, wind it out until you get some freeplay (and hence allow the opening of the port hole between the pressure line and the reservoir), and then lock it again with the jam nut. Check you now have that little tiny bit of freeplay as you pull the lever in, and it should self bleed, and now allow the caliper pucks to open properly when you release the brakes. If it is still binding check your brake pad wear. As the pads get right down the piston pucks in the caliper can get a bit cocked and may bind in the bore. If this is the case take the brake caliper off the fork leg (leave the hose connected), remove the old pads. - The pads just need to be slid sideways into the centre and they drop out, no need to even touch the spring at the top. Then clean around toe pucks, push them back home, and install new pads. Reinstall caliper, a few pumps of the lever to get the pads against the discs, and you should be good to go.