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Use silicone grease on O rings to make them stick in the grooves of casings during assembly. whining noise may be the primary gear with the clutch meshing , Check the nut that holds the clutch basket/bell on is tight.

As konrad said they are like that .This is for when the carb is used OEM on a bike that will have the adjusters on the left hand side e.g early GasGas pro 280 There is no need to plug it it is already blank , it does not matter if dirt gets in the hole , it will not get inside the carburettor.

Hello guys, last year I've got a 1973 Explorer with a semi-seized engine. Managed to find another one that should be in working conditions but the owner doesn't know which model it's from. I tried putting the engine in, it looks the same when it comes to frame brackets but it doesn't fit... it's like it's slightly thicker than the stock one where the engine meets the frame in the swingarm/filter area. Also noticed the right side sprocket cover is different (longer)... any idea? Is it better to slightly file the engine bracket or the frame?

Reghusky, I’d suggest you use an epoxy putty to fill the hole. It’s very easy to control the application. You simply cut off the amount you need and mix it with your fingers. If you use a 5 minute liquid epoxy it could run inside your carburetor and make problems worse. I inserted a link to JB Weld SteelStik that’s worked great for me and it’s formulated to work on metals. You could use the leftover to put in your toolkit in case you break something while on the trail. The other option, if you can determine the thread, is to put a screw/bolt in the hole then tighten it down. That way it can be removed easily in the future. https://www.jbweld.com/product/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick?srsltid=AfmBOoow4TSrJyoiKEz1T--jEoSYMv0MvMKrvs4AjsApeWY9MXnM8HpG

That's a good idea, I was wondering what to plug the hole with! Cheers.

I don't see that you have anything to lose by plugging a hole that should not exist. Personally, I would try something quick and dirty like hot-melt glue. If that was successful, I'd use epoxy.

Yep, that's what I think Konrad, I wonder if it was meant to have a blanking plug in it which has fell out. It was running but idle was erratic. Piston, rings and crank seals have all been done.

A first session on this bike. Wheel maintenance: new bearings/cleaning/polishing hubs/tire/deglazing discs/new sprocket Steering maintenance: new bearings/seals/polishing Replacement of the GasGas front fork with a reconditioned Paioli, 10x better looking and quality. Fabrication of the spacers that match the wheel. Replacement of master cylinders and hoses, new caliper, brake pads. Renthal 5" handlebars, grips, anodized clamps, anodized banjo bolts, throttle grip, new levers. I present to you the new white fairing. It's a very rare fairing. I had it shipped from the United States. It's marked JT32 and differs from the JT35 in the absence of a bike computer on the tank and in its very bright colors. Indeed, the photos are misleading. The red you see for the lettering is neon pink!! On the JT35 it's red with touches of neon pink. This one is MEGA FLUO PINK!!! It's magnificent, it's totally fun and typical of the era. I love it! The reminder with the purple anodized parts matches very well. The look will evolve; it's not definitive, but it's just a preview.

hello Sam, £1000 - £1200 for the pair? Let me know if you are interested, Steve.

Guessing konrad refers to part 11 and associated bits 👍

Typically, the unused side would not have been machined. If it was like that from Day-1, the engine would have had a massive air leak and never worked properly.

Yes. Yamaha used that on some conventional carbs. Could be a torn diaphragm or gummed up. Suggest you disassemble and inspect/clean.

For all intent purpose that would be a tiny mechanical fuel pump that activates when the throttle returns to idle position. No such thing is shown on the diagram you attached. & If the bike runs well you really should not be messing with the jetting, but 🤔 if changing the jetting is simply moving the e-clip on the main jet needle I think I would try that.

In addition to the diaphragm for the slide, the carb has a diaphragm with spring on the side. On a CV carb diagram for a different bike, I see something similar identified as a coasting enricher. I think I have also seen something called an anti backfire valve on other carb diagrams. Could that be the culprit? Is the purpose of such valves to prevent a pop? The bike runs well so I'm reluctant to change jetting. MK-BSR33-79-Detail-Sheet-copy.pdf

Yes, I agree it looks like the casting is made for both. It definitely goes from outside to inside, I thought the unused side would be blocked or capped. I wondered if anyone had the 125 and could confirm or deny?

Hi, have quite a loud whining noise that comes and goes with clutch engagement. When its disengaged there's no noise at all. Had the clutch apart and all seems fine, did wonder if it was the basket bearing but there's no play. Haven't changed oil type (nano trans) but has fresh oil. Any suggestions welcomed. While im here does anybody have any tips for putting the clutch cover o ring in place? Has literally just taken me longer to put the cover back on than take the clutch to bits, inspect it, clean it and reassemble it! Edit: 2012 250 2t

I'm used to the PHBL, but your VHST looks like this photo: https://www.speed-parts.nl/carburateur-dellorto-vhst-26-mm-bd-flat-slide.html The casting probably was made that way so it could have mixture and idle screws on either side. You could test with compressed air.

Hello, I wonder if anyone can help please? My son has a rev 3 125 2006 with the dellorto VHST 26 carb. I have taken the carb out to clean it and check jets, it has a threaded hole here which leads straight into the carb bore, should this be blanked off? I can't believe it's right to let unfiltered air straight into the engine?! Also does anyone know the standard jets/needle position for the dellorto? Thank you.

Look on the under side of the fuel tank year will be stamped in to tank

Any equipment challenge would probably only arise in the case of a championship. You can walk through the pits ay any AHRMA event and see several bikes that violate some of the rules. There are some riders who live to stretch or skirt the rules, whatever they can get away with, I think it's part of the fun for them. Just ride and have fun. I've ridden a number of AHRMA Trials events and never even been through a tech inspection.

Likely true. In roadracing, tech (scrutineering) is about safety. Illegal modifications must be protested by other competitors.

This is their rule book. https://www.ahrma.org/ahrma-handbook/ I'm no expert but the few AHRMA events I have seen even have a class that allows modern bikes so you should be able to find a class for anything. IIRC, otter frames are not legal for their pre 65 class. I have seen TY175s with extended swing-arms and lay down shocks competing but I don't think they meet the letter of the rules. Based on absolutely nothing, I wonder if no one is too picky about the rules unless you are going for a championship.

Hello everyone, I am selling mine and my dad's classic Fantic 125 trials bikes and I am after some advice. We took part in some classic trials a few years ago now just for a bit of fun and they have been stored in my garage unused for the past three years. They were both running when they went into storage but not now, probably due to the old fuel in the tanks. One is very original (full original exhaust) and the other is in better condition (semi-restored by my dad, new footpegs, steering lock cut off and a few other bits). Not sure on the year for either bike. I've looked under the frame and can see the stamps but can't make out a year on either bike. My dad seems to recall they are 1979 and 1980. Basically, I'm not sure where is the best place to sell these bikes, an auction or Autotrader maybe? Or how much they are worth now. Also, is there a way of knowing what year they are? To sell them together or separately? Feel free to make an offer if anyone on here is interested. Bikes are located in Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire. Any hints or advice would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks, Sam.

Try Steve Goode in England. Also In Motion Trials has quite a few parts as well.

To be clear - the idiot refers to me. I know very little of AHRMA beyond a couple of brief conversations with other local vintage enthusiasts. The general sentiment shared was that AHRMA rules can be somewhat strict when it comes to acceptable vintage bikes. Certainly more so than local club events. Having just returned from Scotland where I was fortunate to compete in the Leven 2-day trial, I'm on sensory overload with all the incredibly cool pre-65 bikes I saw over there. And, quite fortunately - I've an opportunity to get some bikes into a container to ship back to the US. I can ride anything I saw over there in my local club vintage classes, as air cooled and drum brakes are the only requirements. I'm curious where AHRMA might draw the line with some of these highly modified bikes I saw. Drayton frames, REH forks, custom hubs/wheelsets, billet yokes, etc. And, to be clear - I'm not looking to win any championships. Just looking to enjoy more days in local vintage competitions, as our local club events have limited vintage turnout. I'll not be one to complain about being DQ'ed if I run afoul of an AHRMA rule or grey area, but I'd prefer not to show up only to find out I can't ride. Thanks for any education!