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Yes the other stem with no hole is probably the rim lock/tyre clamp. Front wheels on trials bikes usually have one rim lock. The leaning tube stem may not be due to the tyre slipping on the rim. The more common cause for the tube stem leaning is that the tube has moved relative to the tyre and rim. To determine what is causing your tube stem to lean over, you can put marks on the tyre and the rim that are in alignment. If the marks separate during riding and the stem lean changes, then the tyre is slipping. If the marks stay aligned but the tube stem lean changes, then the tube is moving within the tyre. If you want to get the tube stem back perpendicular again at any point, let the air out, loosen the tyre clamp, push the beads inwards off the rim and rotate the tyre relative to the rim, then pressurise the tube to reseat the tyre and tighten the tyre clamp. To prevent the tube moving inside the tyre, you can either make the contact between the tyre and the tube very grippy (clean the tube and tyre internals thoroughly) or very slippery (clean the contact area and when dry, put lots of talcum powder in there). If neither of these methods stops the tube moving inside the tyre, fit a different size or brand tube. If your tube is on the big side for the tyre, fit a smaller section tube. If your tube is on the small side for the tyre, fit a bigger section tube. If your tyre really is slipping on the rim, check the size of the rim lock is the right size for the rim and check for damage to the rim lock. If you can see a decent witness inside the tyre beads where the clamp has been gripping them, it is most likely doing a good job.

The front wheel has the normal shrader valve stem wirh a small knurled ring at the base. This stem works to accept air to inflate the tire. It also has another "stem" that is 4 spokes away that has a bright red shiney rounded aluminum cap on the end. Under the cap It looks like it "might" be able to recieve air (but is does not) then below the area where the red cap mounts this stem gets about 50% larger in diameter and has very course threads. A flanged nut is threaded onto this part of the stem and the flange is in contact with the rim. It might be a rim lock to prevent the tire from slipping on the rim. My tire has apparently sliped a little bit on the rim as the "normal shrader valve stem wirh a small knurled ring at the base" is a little bit off perpendicular to the rim. Any help will be appreciated and if anyone has a link to some explanation of this it would be great. THANKS!

Its a tlr200 that he is fitting the brake hub off a TLR 250 into so it may need a custom spacer?. As you said just measure it and make one by buying a piece of aluminium tube of the correct dimensions then cut it to the length you need. Its very simple.really .it will also be cheaper than buying a spacer. For some reason spacers cost as much as an axle? Chinese pit bikes have 15mm axles so he could find a spacer set for one of those at Red Circles or somewhere like that for pennies . If only people could be bothered to do a google search then they could find what they needed.

Hello. The Jitsie Glow is a solid choice overall. It does what it claims in terms of being windproof and waterproof, and the added hood makes it handy off the bike as well. It’s more of a practical all-weather riding jacket than a heavily armoured piece, so it’s great for comfort and staying dry rather than protection on its own. For the price, it’s fairly reasonable considering it’s on par with branded outdoor jackets, and many riders use it for exactly the kind of mixed riding you’re talking about. The main thing is making sure it fits well in a riding position and works with layers underneath. If that checks out, it’s a good option.

I hope Pete's OK

That looks great. well done

Are you sure it's a Montesa?

Post up a picture of this rare motorcycle.

Anyone working on or have knowledge about a 1966 montesa with kickstarter on left side ( sitting on the bike) . Trying to replace spring can’t see original, or where it should be. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Rear wheel finished. New spokes & bearings. New chainwheel.

Nice work so far!

Pre 1999 Montesa Cota 315R came fitted with Paioli forks and the service manual covers their service in great detail 👍

Brand new tank (NOS)

I would still like a copy of the 2003/2004 manual for anything else. I can only find later models.

Thank you for your quick response, The website is full of valuable info, a lot of it goes beyond my current knowledge of the argument. I was hoping to find pouch cell with equivalent features of the original, and have some technician swap the cells and keep all the rest as original. Yet It sounds like this is difficult to achieve and may even be better to find a new BMS and new battery cells . Il would be great to hear of someone has successfully done it, and with which specific BMS/cells. I will contact Enepaq and see if they can provide suitable cells, their BMS seems a lot better than the original one

Close; it's because the light weight, right-handed, senior citizen type rider tried using their left leg to start the silly backwards bike and found they simply could not start it.

I don't get why so many people advocate using the right leg for a left-hand kickstart. Is it that right-handed people think the left side of their body doesn't work? How do you think left-handed people get on with right-hand kickstarts. Unless you have a particular injury or disability, use the leg the bike was designed for.

£1500 should do it, though the bike will be quite old so you check it out very thoroughly. Normally I would say £2k will get you something trouble-free and ready-to-ride.

Glad to hear you found something useful on the website, Fabio. My understanding is that the 2019 5.7 was EM's first use of the siliXcon controller. I assume the controller is password protected, like all later EMs. But if that's not the case, the 2019 would be quite valuable. The battery is always a source of concern. However, the 5.7's pouch cells do seem to be more “reliable” than cylindrical Li-Ion cells that are now being used. I have heard of several 5.7 batteries being rebuilt using cylindrical cells. Of course the BMS also would need to be replaced. Battery technology improves quickly, and it would be likely you could now achieve 2x the energy density of the original 5.7 battery. I have begun researching BMSs for such conversions: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/ev-tech-101/ant-bms

It’s better to stand to the side and use your right foot—it’s more comfortable and helps you maintain your balance.

I read with interest this topics and what a great amount of info you shared on your website! Thanks Konrad! I am deciding if to purchase or not a Motion Escape from 2019, the bike comes at a good price but i am worried that the battery will not last long or that will lose efficiency very quickly.... Kokam it out of business...so i started looking online for Pouch 3.7v 25Ah lithium ion batteries to regenerate the battery without having to change or reprogram the BMS .... Do you know any specific brand/models that could be good for the job, just swapping the cells and be good? Thanks Fabio

Rear shocks to suit a TY175 would be suitable for the Cota 247. Forks are rebuildable, you just need to get some high pressure rotary seals of matching dimensions from your local supplier.

I'd be checking your countershaft sprocket before pulling anything apart, if its worn it might be catching the chain. Next thing would be as JRSUNT has said and take the chain off and run it in gear and see if noise is affected by the clutch, which means you will have to dig further.

Only in that the owner in New England passed away, and the son sent them to Mike to sell them.

Thanks now I have 5W oil so will start with 300 and then measure.