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https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0380

Cota 200.pdf

When you pull the clutch lever in I assume you can feel the mechanism trying to activate the clutch? Also I assume you have tried riding it in a high gear with the clutch pulled in while accelerating?

On my gasgas enduro bike I went to the shop and bought a cheap ring spanner and ground the outside down until it fit. Scientific torque spec I used was almost as tight as I could do it by hand and then give the the spanner a couple of light hits with a hammer.

Hi guys. Got 2018 txt 250 and tried to replacing the top end but I really can’t find way to how to tighten front cylinder base nuts. Plain ring wrench doesn't fit at all neither most slim wrench(signet 30493) I got. Was tried to tighten with open end wrench but seems like nuts are gonna stripping. Any idea how to tighten these nuts with torque spec??

It definitely should do much better than that. Could someone have geared it way up?

Anyone still alive on here that has any information on the clutch assembly? *******o clutch will not disingage ( stuck in gear) all gears selectable... Have soaked the basket in petrol and doesn't seem to be sticking.. really need an exploded diagram as I feel a crucial part maybe missing.. engine was rebuilt by someone else.. even the tiniest information would be great 👍

There might be a problem with the exhaust being partialy blocked

There are two forums on here where you can ask Cota 200 questions. One is "Twinshock" and other is "Montesa". There are also facebook pages for Montesa motorbikes.

yeah i did that and even when i incorporated body movement like i do wheelies on other four strokes this one just lifted the front wheel slightly 😅

Hi all recently purchased a Montesa cota 200 81/82 I think, I'm finding it hard to find a knowledge base for this machine,so who's the Go to on here for the knowledge?

You're not using the clutch, your reed valves need attention or the previous owner added weight to the flywheel would be my first guess. The 1980's TY should spool up much more quickly compared to a 1970's TY'

You may be missing the hit or "coming on the pipe" of other type two strokes. Trials bikes mostly have very smooth torque curves so don't tend to do that. IIRC, that particular model does not run to high RPMs so if you are trying to lift the wheel when you are already up in the RPM range, it may not happen. However, It should be able to lift the front wheel. What happens if you are rolling along at a slow walking speed in first or second gear and quickly open the throttle most of the way?

use the long end of the Allen key to access the bolt. then use a wrench (5mm I think) on the Allen key to loosen. It is easier with "ball-end" Allen keys.

Looking at it, I believe the reservoir has been changed. It has a straight spigot instead of an angled one, that is why it doesn't sit correctly. The bottom of the tank is pushing down on it and the straight spigot is trapping/kinking the pipe

Your statement "this is my first time riding a trial bike" tells me that the bike may be working normally, because 2 stroke trials bikes like your TY mono are very different in engine performance and gearing to 2 stroke non-trials bikes. How about you post up a link to a Youtube video of you riding your bike so people can tell you if there is anything wrong with the bike.

I just bought a 1986 yamaha ty250 and this is my first time riding a trial bike, in my experience with many 2-stroke bikes, I find them very strong at the initial throttle, easy to wheelie, but on the ty250 i just bought, in 1st 2nd 3rd gear it is not strong, it just keeps slow speed, can't even do a wheelie, is that normal or is there something wrong with my bike?

I just bought a 1986 yamaha ty250 and this is my first time riding a trial bike, in my experience with many 2-stroke bikes, I find them very strong at the initial throttle, easy to wheelie, but on the ty250 i just bought, in 1st 2nd 3rd gear it is not strong, it just keeps slow speed, can't even do a wheelie, is that normal or is there something wrong with my bike?

Obviously, the aluminum tank is fine. The bottom hat that holds the fuel pump, allows the wiring and pressurized fuel to pass through is a mixture of coated steel and some brazed or welded parts. The steel had become rusted and porous so it needed to be replaced or coated and lined. Not the first Honda fuel component I've come across that needed to be lined. Overland Trail mentioned that honda is discontinuing the gasket/packing going forward

On early models they used to put them under the seat/airbox on the left hand side /gear change side but later models it went where yours is now as its better placed. the tube is the thing that will melt between the reservoir and the rear master cylinder and needs a long spring over it for heat /crush protection. if you need a new piece of tubing it is made of EPDM plastic to survive DOT4 brake fluid 6mm/8mm internal diameter. Regards Alan.

Hello cut a bit off the allen key to get in there better and work it slowly then swap it for a normal bolt with two or three washers when you put it back on ...... or use a flexi extension to get on the allen bolt.

I thought it would be M10 but knew there was 2 thread pitch, just wanted to make sure I got the right one

Ok thanks, just the previous owner said he moved it 🤷🏻

Your picture shows that the reservoir is fitted where it should be fitted.

Every brake banjo bolt I've ever seen has been M10. A thread pitch of 1.0mm is more likely for a trials bike, but 1.25mm is possible.