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Kudos on your persistence! But it should not have been nearly that much effort for you. Wishing you a positive end result.

Sorry I have been off line for a bit but I have had a result! Backstory since last post - dealer was pretty useless but after a couple of visits to spoon feed them (including my earlier video) they were able to acknowledge the issue. They submitted a warranty claim for a new casing which was accepted but failed to make any case for potential engine damage as this is clearly unpaid hassle for them! I was not happy and they then offered me a new replacement bike for £1000 to change. Considering Honda had just reduced the list price of a new bike by £1800 this seemed unreasonable but we negotiated down to £500, which I accepted. However, they then reneged on the deal and wanted another £107 for registration or something as Honda had failed to provide some credit they were expecting. If we had done the deal it It is clear to me that they were going to put the new casing on my old bike and punt it out second hand, which, as a man of some principle, I consider to be pretty scurrilous! So I told them I would take this up directly with Honda. After getting through two layers of Honda's customer service smokescreens (abroad, naturally, so no-one with English as a first language or any technical knowledge) there were mix ups and confusions where they stated it was a carburettor issue / that I had received a goodwill payment and the bike registration was a mixture of my postcode and the actual reg number! After making the clear point that, as Honda has already accepted the casing defect they must therefore also accept that there are going to be adverse consequences from this, I found myself talking to a helpful and knowledgeable technical assessor at Honda UK. Hoorray! The assessor acknowledged my arguments and agreed that there were likely to be concerns over wear and or damage to the engine and that he would make the case to management about a solution. I said that I would accept nothing less than a new and complete engine, not a short engine. Interestingly, it would appear that a boatload of 4RTs had been returned to Spain to be checked for this defect and it would seem that my motor was one that slipped through the net. Lucky me! During a second call from him it would seem that Montesa resisted a little bit saying that they oil system is split and the engine would have had circulating oil. I pointed out that none of this would have been filtered and that components fed from the oil filter onwards (i.e the left side of the motor) would have been starved. This was accepted and Montesa have agreed to provide a complete factory built engine as a replacement. As I was not happy with the competence of supplying dealer doing the work I have found another but will have to get the bike to them. More to follow soon, I hope.

Hi i got a sherco 300sef-r im looking for a year model i have the vin number : VNBS430E32B002114

Thanks for posting the picture and the help 😊😊 The fuel/air mixture screw i have on the bike is the one to the right without the spring (Screw number 3 from the left) The fuel/air mixture on my bike is turned out 2 turns as the bike is today (it runs great) But i will turn the out the fuel/air screw close to 2 more tuns out so it will be 4 turns out from fully closed and check how that works 😊 You are absolute correct about screws can vibrate loose and fall off so i usually checks that. I have to say that when i check for loose screws i have never checked any adjustemnt screws on the carburator. Update! I have adjusted the fuel/air screw from fully in to a little over 3 turns out. With the fuel/air screwed out a little over 3 turns compared to 2 rounds out it used to be i can not tell any difference of the mixtture settings. When adjusted the fuel/air screw out 4 turns the screw feels a little to loose so for my liking. I think that there is a chance the fuel/air screw can vibrate loose. Anyway the bikes runs great with the fuel/air mixture screw adjusted out a little over 3 turns out from fully closed. The bike starts really easy both cold using the choke and warm with a little throttle with this mixture setting.

According to the parts diagram part 27 is needle slow and part 28 is Jet slow 30. Below is a drwaing of the carburetor and the parts list When you open the drawing in a new window you can enlarge it and easy see the parts

I ended up using old chain, it seems in good shape so it will work for now, new sprockets are Talon 10 & 48 thanks MW

HI all, trying to start the Kelly controller swap.Does this controller hook into the existing power/speed/response dials? I'm imagining this is omitted, but wasn't sure. Thanks

The Dellorto is unlike a Japanese 2T carb (where 1.5 turn out is the normal starting point). Despite being on the engine side of the slide, the Dellorto's mixture screw controls fuel (out is richer). For the Dellorto, 3 to 4 turns out is typical. If it runs best at 2 turns out, that's fine. But don't be afraid to experiment with the mixture screw (just remember that the spring needs to be somewhat compressed to ensure the screw does not vibrate loose and fall out.) Most manufactures have a procedure for setting the mixture screw that optimizes idle smoothness or minimizes idle emissions. I set the mixture screw for best performance just off idle. Attached a pic for reference. Mixture screws on the right left are for fuel, mixture screws on the left right are for air.

"almost 2 rounds out" <- sounds much closer to a conventional carburetor setting 👍 if it works there leave it. Pretty sure the low speed adjuster screw on a Dellorto controls fuel and on most other carbs it controls air so you might find adjustment alters the engine opposite to what you might expect. I think as you turn the screw out you are enriching the fuel mixture on a Dellorto. What do they label part #27 & part # 30 on your diagram? Those look more like the emulsion tube that I refer to as being most critical to clean after being subjected to fuel evaporation. Variations on the name 'emulsion tube' are atomizer or pulverizer tube depending on the documentations original language.

I just noticed first now that you wrote that the mixture setting for the fuel/air screw is 4 turns out. Is that not much? Before i tried to start the bike i had the setting on 1 and 1/2 turn out and after i started the bike i opened the fuel/air screw a little more so on my bike it is almost 2 rounds out now. The bike runs great but should i try to open up more? The pilot jet was and is open and in perfect order on my bike. I would not mind having the bike going slower so i do not know if i can tell if i put on a 9 tooth front sprocket front and 48 tooth rear sprocket? I think the front sprocket is a 8 tooth and the rear sprocket is a 42 tooth. Something tells me i will not notice any big difference with a a 9 tooth front sprocket front and 48 tooth rear sprocket

Thank you. They certainly look the part 👌🏻

In terms of build quality they are another level from the 21 models (which themselves were improved as result of the KTM ownership) Everything well bolted together and all fits as it should. A GG trait I've always had over the years is fasteners / bolts etc working loose so I would, as a matter of course. spend 5-10 minutes going round and checking everything after each clean. Although again, the later bikes were way ahead build wise. This is not needed on the newer bikes, although always worth checking though. New bikes ride like a Gas Gas but better. The suspension is beautiful but the main thing is the attention to detail on them like the repositioned linkage so fully out of the way, re-worked footrest mounts etc. The more you look the more you see.

Amazing little bike 👍

I also have a Fantic 200. Lovely bike to ride and surprisingly powerful for an engine of only 156cc

Hi folks, I have a Yamaha TY175 (1980) which has a badly damaged clutch case due to the common kickstart problem. I bought a yamaha dt100 clutch case which is a perfect fit case to case but it is a bit wider and this means the original TY175 kickstart shaft is not long enough. Onnce the DT case is fitted over the Ty kickstart shaft, the shaft can be pulled outwards by 10mm. I am thinking I need a DT100 kickstart shaft...if these are 119 long rather than the TY length of 108mm. Has anyone tried using a DT100 clutch case and DT100 kickstart assembly? Pics show the DT case fitted showing the TY shaft not long enough to fit a kickstart and how it looks fully pulled out against the inside of the case, this difference is around 10mm.

On my TXT 125 Pro the protector rubber is not on the bike. I ordered the part some time ago so i have it on the shelf so i will put it on the bike. I just put it on the bike where it is supposed to sit and to me it does not look to protect much i have to say. It is part 41/41A on the picture below. Also shown with a blue arrow.

Thanks a lot for helpful info 😊😊 I have to admit that i have not been working on motorbikes since i was a teenager. But i work a lot on sporty cars. When you say the main jet needle do you mean the needle that is shown as part 36 on the parts list/drawing at the bottom here? I did test the carburator flow valve by blowing in the fuel line and lifting the needle on the float valve so i knew the float valve was shut so there was no way the fuel could get in the float chamber. That was the first thing i did after i noticed the float chamber had no fuel at all. But before i took off the carburator i had already phoned a friend of mine that is a motorbike mechanic so i was on my way to him anyway. If i had fixed the float valve myself i would have freeded up the stuck float valve but i would not have noticed that the spring pushed the tip out to far as my friend noticed. But perhaps the float valve would have worked even if the tip on the float valve was sticcking out to far for all i know 😊 😊 I have off course ordered a new float valve to put in the carburator. Having said that the float valve that sit in my carburator with no spring is working perfect. Even if i park the bike without turning off the fuel tap the carburetor does not overflow. Note that i always turn off the fuel tap but in this case i left the fuel tap open for a couple of hours just to check if the carburetor would overflow with the spring taken off the float valve. I am still saying that the float valve will work as it is supposed to without the spring. When there is enough fuel in the float chamber the float will rise and hit the needle on the float valve and the valve will shut off the fuel since the chamber is full. But i agree with you. There should be no parts left out in the carburetor or other parts on the bike. I had adjusted the fuel/air screw all the way in and turned it out back 1 and 1/2 turn but when the bike ran on idle i turned the fuel/air screw open close half a turn more. I was really lucky with the idle since it was almost perfect. As i said i was sure the bike would be hard to start after i had put the airbox with airfilter back was not the case at all 😊😊 The bike starts really easy 😊😊 From what i found out. When cold turn on the choke and the bike will star on the first or second try onthe kick starter. When warm just open up the throttle a little and it usually starts on the first try 😊😊 I have heard many replaces the Dellorto carburator with Kehin carburators but if you ask me the Dellorto carburetor on my bike sure is easy to start and runs great the little i have used the bike. About the 3% oil mixture is because i just thought it was better to use more oil since the bike have been standing since 2017. We are talking about 2 liters of fuel with a 3% oil mixture. When that is used up i will use 2% oil mixture in the fuel. I have always thought that on a 2 stroke it is better with to much oil than to little oil in the mixture. So i as said the 3% oil mixture was just to be on the safe side since the bike have been standing for so long. I would not have thought that the bike would be so easy to start. Especially when thinking of the short travel of the kick starter. Thanks for all the help 😊😊

So are you 🤣

Try richard allen. Allens used trials spares on fb

Really, you guys are replying to a 4 year old post? Lol

Poor mans bleed tool:

I’m after some beta Evo fork legs if anyone has any for sale? Must be good condition , dorset cheers