carl ekblom

Yes, the large tube is the crankcase breather and the small one goes from the hot start valve to the air box. This tube isn´t reallly needed. If you like you can block the hole in the airbox and take the air directly from outside into the hot start valve. The small mystery tubes from the carb are all air vents from the carb. The T-tubes are used to reduce the number of tubes going down behind the enginee where they end. The large air vent from the vaccum chamber at top of carb should be blocked. Hope this helps.

Bosi is selling Tech forks for Beta. I guess they are good http://www.bosioffro...emart&Itemid=58

Needle in 4th or 5th groove and fuel mixture screw 3-4 turns out may help and check for air leaks in intake system.

I have cracked a number of them in a similar way. They are crap. Some weeks ago I fitted the TTT front mudgard from this kit http://www.saunderse...22961&parent=4. It fits well after some tweaking. I think it use the Montesa fork brace.

BigBird2 wrote: "The left fork, with the spring and the ride height (or preload) adjuster is the old fashioned "damper rod" design. However, the passages for the oil are so huge that is provides almost no damping in either direction even if you use thicker oil. The exception to this is the anti-bottoming cone at the bottom of the damper rod. This device does nothing (no damping) until you are about 5" into the 7" of available travel. At this point it DRAMATICALLY increases the damping to minimize/eliminate the chance of actually mechanically bottoming the forks. Before I understood how this left fork worked I tried going to thicker oil in hopes of getting more compression damping. This did almost nothing for compression (or rebound) damping in the first 5" of travel. However, it made the damping in the last 2" of travel so firm that it effectively limited the fork travel to 5" or a little over. " I agree in every respect. Consider that you will only have about 3"-4" of compression travel when standing on the footrests and half of them goes into a rock hard hydraulic damping, What is even worse is that the oil will cavitate when the fork is trying to rebound from the compressed rock hard position causing very strange behaviour of the fork. I think the design of the anti bottoming cone is a major drawback of the fork. Using thicker oil will only make things even worse. Use as thin oil as possible to avoid the worst. I have just started to modify the cone making it shorter and thinner to improve things. Will report later after more testing. Carl

I have own them both. Here is my list: Build quality-Montesa Suspension-Definitly Montesa Quietness- Beta Grip-Beta is much better Rev range- A Montesa will rev a lot more. Strong bottom end-(300)Beta Easy to start- Montesa when cold Beta when hot, Beta after stalling the engine. Weight- Beta is lighter and feels lighter. Easy to ride- Beta (except for suspension) Here is my verdict: A Beta evo 4T with Montesa suspension Carl

I had a similar problem with my evo 4T. It turned out to be dirt in the carb. I found it very difficult to clean the carb so I guess an ultrasonic cleaner would help.

I think the rear shock is OK but the front Paioli is crap. I am thinking of this Showa conversion http://www.jbanyeres.com/jb_parts/en/12-beta?p=2 It is expensive but it would really be an improvement . Are factory riders really using the Crapiolis? /Carl

This worked for me: hold throttle wide open kick over slowly once or twice close throttle start it with a long slow kick. If this don

Hello When I was 16 I in 1973 I bought a Saracen 125 with the Sachs engine. I bought it from mr Lars Ingvarsson in V

I was standing just a couple of meters behind when he blow the engine. Cabestany was struggling all day long. A big crash in section 10 first lap. Could have went ill but he managed to jump off the bike just in time. Oliveras also had problems. Perhaps the sections didn

If it run well before it is most likely you have dirt in the idling system. Carefully clean the pilot jet and all idling system passages in the carb body or preferably... clean all jets and passages in the car body. Use clean and filtrated compressed air or an ultrasonic cleaner. Clean and oil the air filter and keep doing this every week. Be carefull to avoid dirt when filling petrol. Pilot jet size 44 confuses me, I think it should be 37 or 38 and main jet around 110-115. If the needle jet and needle combination is mixed up it will cause problems. I have done a number of posts about the VHST carb jettings and problems a couple of years ago. You find them here http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8792 and here http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....t=0&start=0 Good luck Carl

When I bought my Cota new in 1974 the frame was black. 1973 had silver frames. The tire for the 20/17 wheels were some kind of Pirelli and they was a disaster. I guess that the 21/18 Dunlop Trials Universal had been a better choice. Carl

5W40 fully synth oil is OK (I use it ) but use the ELF oil in gearbox. I would not us a 5W50 oil in engine /Carl

I have recently swapped my Hebo medium for a Airoh Rock medium. After a couple of years of usage the Hebo felt a bit loose on my head. Airoh fits perfecty. Light and good helmet. Can recommend it Carl

I think 2nd gear riding really is needed under slippery conditions. I

If you run the CR6EH-9 plug, why not try the CR5EH-9. It runs slightly warmer and will burn soot more easily. I use it. No problem so far . Carl

Hobol Norway UEM 19 aug 2007 1 Daniel Gilbert Montesa 4RT 250 2 Lenzi Fabio Montesa 4RT 250 5 Anders Nilsson Montesa 4RT 250 Progammable Fuel injection...Yes... That

The nut on my 4RT is 24mm AF. You also need a 22mm U-spanner for the shaft. Carl

Agree, petrol works fine for me. Wire isn

Well, I think you have got dust in the idle jet. Once it

Hello Try a choke jet size of 70-80. Carefully clean the idle jet. Do the airfilter maintenance. Keep the petrol clean .....and it will run superb I think it

Agree. It

I

I have recently replaced the std steel plates with Jitsie steel plates and and ATF oil with the recommended HTX740 oil. I feel after about 10 hours of riding that the clutch action have been improved. I don