stpauls

Sorted. It was the reed valve gaskets. The rubber one looked a bit dodgy. I used some Instant Gasket to seal them up. Replaced everything and it started after half a dozen kicks. It is running ok now. I will order a new set of gaskets and replace them when I next clean the carb. Thanks everyone.

Hi all Thall1 - I am sure that there is not a leak between the carb and the air box. Digger144 - Floats look correct. Needle and slide seem to fit and work ok. Fuel is fresh. Dan Williams - no-one else to blame but me! Beta_blocker - I removed the jets and cleaned them. They were fine, I will have another look at the pilot jet. Lineaway - Will try the tower if nothing else works. Cascao - The reed valve cage gaskets looked dodgy. I will check these.

Hi. 2014 Sherco ST 125. My bike was running ok but as I am on holiday I decided to take the Keihin carb off and clean it. I have done this at least 3 times before, with no issues. I noted all the adjustment screw positions, then stripped down the carb, cleaned everything and blew through all the holes and jets etc with an air line. While I had the carb off, I removed the reed valve cage and checked the reeds and fixing screws. Everything was fine. I then put everything back together. Now the bike will not start or run without the choke on. With the choke on the engine screams. Close the choke and it dies. What have I done wrong? Ideas please. Thanks in anticipation.

The clutch on my 2014 Sheco ST 125 has always been good. Very light, very slipable and never dragged. However, recently the clutch has become more on/off and the clutch is dragging. If cold, it drags badly. Same oil. Changed monthly. Ideas?

I love the smell of castor oil in a 2 stroke engine. It takes me back to the 1960s. I wish someone would make an additive to make modern fuel smell like the old stuff, that I could put in my Sherco.

You have to wonder why real Trials is rarely/never on the TV.

Ask the Owner's Club - they are the experts: http://www.beamishownersclub.com/

Sherco ST 125 2014. The front disc is floating. However, the rear disk is fixed. Anyone know why this is so?

Worn out piston. How do you know/can you tell when your piston needs replacing? Sherco ST 125 2014

Take another photo of the silencer, but this time not from above. Get down on your knees, so that your camera is the same height as the silencer.

I have a yellow framed 2014, like the bike in the RCM Trailsport photo above. I have removed both my silencer and front pipe several times. I didn't remove the rear shock to do it. From memory I removed the rear mudguard, inner rear mudguard, top air filter housing and the plastic trim attached to the silencer. The silencer is held in by several bolts, some of which are not immediately apparent. You have to wriggle the silencer about and it just slips out easily. Simple. Our cat could do it! However, I have no idea if an adapter is required. The awkward bit is refitting the air box connector back on to the carb. Tricky and awkward. Use a small smear of grease on the two ends to help them slip together.

I disagree. The exhaust with the plastic tip is off a rear tanker , a 2014 or early 15. The later 2015 and onwards, with the fuel tank in the front, have much longer plastic tips. 2013 and before don't have a plastic tip.

I usually ride the Novice route. Here in the West Country the Novice routes can be marked White, Yellow or Red, depending on the club. What could possibly be confusing about that? However, my pet hate are poorly MARKED out sections, where I can get a 5 by getting lost or missing a marker!

The best way to kill a bad rule it to follow the Italian way and ignore it.

So why was the Scottish cop living in Ireland?

If you find it doable, then stay in the Novice class. Don't worry about the scores, just concentrate on riding as many sections as you can. The thing to remember about the Novice class is that some club's Novice routes are a lot harder than other clubs Novice routes. Also, it depends on if it is a Championship round, or not. (Championship rounds Novice sections are often a lot more difficult than ordinary club meets). Try the Novice route in as many different clubs as you can.

Time to think about replacing my air filter again on my 2014 rear fuel tanked Sherco ST. The foam on the standard ones keeps splitting. Anyone tried one of these Jitsie air filters? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361975921186?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Before you do any of the above, you have 6 springs in your clutch. Remove 2 of them. It will not slip, because the same clutch is used on the 300cc bikes, which have 3 times the power, but it will make your clutch pull 1/3 lighter. Make sure that the springs you remove are opposite each other.

Britain - the motherland of trials. Love it!

You would have thought that Sherco would have made the rebound adjustment on the rear shock easier to access on this 2014 ST. Rebound adjustment is made using an Allen key.

In contrast, I live near Bath, England, Great Britain. Every single week, usually within a one hour's drive there will be at least two Trials meetings. Within a two hour drive there will be four or five, probably more. The minimum number of riders will be in the 40s - unusual. A big meet will have around 100. Usually it is 60 - 70 riders. All will have an Expert, Clubman and Novice routes, with many being further differentiated with 50/50 and/or Gentleman's etc routes. Venues include quarries, woods, moorland, gullies, steep hillsides etc Meetings will be for modern bikes, classic bikes or both. The sport is given little/no coverage in the media, despite Emma Bristow being the Ladies World Trials Champion! Often there is a tea wagon. Rarely (in the South) are there any trade stands etc.

That is what I was wondering - do I have to take the silencer or the fuel tank or both off to adjust the rebound? Or, can I reach the screw without doing this? Thanks

I want to adjust the rebound on the rear shock of my 2014 Sherco ST 125. How do I access the adjustment screw? Thanks

NOT a Beta, because their mudguards are fragile - made of glass, I believe. Every time it rears up, you will snap the £75 rear mudguard. Sometimes when you fall off you could also snap it. The front mudguard will also snap if you ride into a bush, get it clogged with mud or swear at it. It could be expensive. Sherco mudguards are floppy. They don't break. As a then beginner, coming from Beta Techno and Evo 250s to a Sherco 125 I can tell you that the Sherco is more nimble and agile that the Betas. There is plenty of power, even for a lardarse. A 125 Gas gas is also better than a Beta and in my opinion the latest 2017 models are excellent, even better than a 3 year old 125 Sherco. I cannot vouch for their mudguards though. Additionally, with a Beta, every time you fall off, or nearly fall off you will burn the inside of your right leg and eventually burn through your trials trousers at the same point. Not so with a Sherco. Don't know about Gasgas. Further, some of the new Gasgas bikes are having various serious issues.

Well, I see that you have a Sherco 290. Not really a beginner's bike - far too fiery. Something a lot less powerful might be a good start.