stpauls

2012/13/14 can jump out of gear. Plenty of threads about this in the "Beta" section of this forum. I had a 2013 250 Evo. Jumping out of gear in sections was annoying and frustrating. I was talking to a chap with a 2014 Evo yesterday and he was telling me that his did it sometimes. The first years had frame necks that could snap. The later hydro-formed frames don't. Find some pictures of the different frame necks, so that you know the ones to avoid. Mudguards are made of glass and are expensive - broke one the first time I went out after fitting a new one.

I am wondering if it is possible to remove the ethanol from petrol? For instance, would it settle out in a column, due to their different viscosities? What about if you added water to the fuel first, so that it binds to the ethanol? Then would the ethanol/water part of the fuel settle out in a column? Could you absorb or filter the ethanol out of petrol - carbon filter or some other method? There is a garage in (I think) Bridgewater which still sells 4 star. Would this fuel contain ethanol? Would it still go "off" in 15 days? PS: I have just Googled "removing ethanol from petrol" and have found many links, such as this one = http://www.ehow.com/how_7830109_remove-ethanol-gasoline.html Could be worth investigating further.

Anyone using ATF in their late model Sherco? Been using Putoline GP10 but some are saying that ATF is ok. Thoughts?

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/53828-jumping-out-of-first/?hl=%2Bevo+%2Bjumping+%2Bout+%2Bgear#entry383943

Honda. My Honda GL1800 Gold Wing was assembled in the USA. It's alloy frame was cast in Canada. The engine was made in the USA, although I don't know where all the different components came from, although some were certainly made in the States, Japan, Canada, Italy and the Far East. Since 2012 the exact same model (apart from minor style changes) is now assembled in Japan. Where are all the individual components made now? I have no idea! In 2006 Honda made at least 100 GL 1800s and put them straight into storage. They were all eventually sold in 2011. http://www.gl1800.org.uk/technical/did-honda-end-goldwing-manufacturing-in-america-to-punish-poor-american-workmanship/ It would appear that making specialised, slow selling, niche market machines in large batches, then selling them slowly, or releasing at a later (distant) date is a Honda business option - especially for those models whose specifications remain the same over longer periods of time, such as the 1800 Gold Wing or the Honda/Montesa trials bikes.

In the south west of England we have mainly mud and roots, so Michelin X Lite on the rear is considered the best choice by many riders, but which tire is best for the front?

A Manuel? Basil Fawlty has one that he does't want.

Why not go to a UK trial. See the ACU website for a list of venues close to London - or there will be one in the south west of England. http://www.acu.org.uk/events/default.aspx https://www.facebook.com/groups/Wessextrialsrider/

I always warm the engine up after washing the mud off. I have close neighbours and the bung reduces the volume a lot. I bet this is what caused the crank shaft seal to fail.

I have just replaced the clutch side crank shaft seal on a Sherco 2T. I have always used an exhaust bung when I wash my bike. I was wondering if running the engine with an exhaust bung still inserted into the end of the tail pipe would explain the damaged crank shaft seal? Exhaust bung

No heat, just a dehumidifier 24/7 in the winter.

Hi I searched the web and found some suggestions on how to remove a crankshaft nut. I followed that advice and jammed a copper penny between the crank gear and the clutch gear. I was unable to undo it with my own pneumatic wrench (windy gun) or with a socket, with a long bar for extra leverage. So I took the stripped-down bike to a local garage. They used their pneumatic (impact?) wrench and after 6 blasts the nut spun off! It only took them a couple of minutes. They would not accept any payment. The funny thing was that the owner does Time Trials! Small world. Thanks to everyone again for their help.

Hi Now sorted. I replaced the crank seal and the heavy smoking has now stopped. Apart from the usual tools that I have, including a torque wrench and gear puller, I bought a clutch basket holding tool for a Sherco from Ebay for £20. I had to ask a friendly local garage to use their air wrench (windy gun) to undo the crank shaft gear nut, as it was really tight. Took me about 3 hours. Thanks to all for their advice and help.

Hi There seems to be two types. Silicone, or silicone free. Which one should I use? Thanks

Hi I want to remove the nut that holds the crankshaft gear wheel onto the end of the crankshaft. 1. Is it a left hand or a right hand thread? 2. How do I hold the crankshaft still while I undo the nut? Thanks in anticipation.

Hi Draining the coolant from my 2014 Sherco. What sort of coolant to refill with? Thanks in anticipation.

So that explains it! A picture is worth a thousand words. Thanks to everyone for your help.

Fitting a new crank seal to my 2014 Sherco ST 125. The new seal is the green one on the left, The old seal? is the black one on the right. It does not fit as I would have expected. The seal does not appear to seal. Even though it has been seated, I can pull it out with my finger nails. When I replace the inner and outer clutch baskets and then tighten the centre nut to 45 lb/ft both lock solid (without clutch plates fitted. Remove the crank seal and tighten the centre nut and they turn freely. I am wondering if the main bearing is in fact a sealed bearing and it does not actually have a seperate crank seal bearing? Any thoughts? Thanks

Thanks for your replies. I will have a go at photos tomorrow - never done it before. If this was a greased bearing originally, then there is no grease left in it that I can see. If I go ahead and fit the new seal, how would it be lubricated, I wonder? Should I fill the bearing with grease? What sort - ordinary grease? Ideas?

There was only the flat seal - nothing else. I suspect that it was the seal on the sealed bearing. It shows a seal here: http://www.shercousa.com/pdfs/2014sparebook_trial-2T.pdf However, I am now wondering just how accurate this exploded diagram of a 2014 125 is?

Replacing the crank seal on a Sherco ST 250. So I bought a new seal from SplatShop, but it is completely different from the seal that I removed. The seal I removed is just flat, like a flat washer that is covered in black plastic on one side. The new seal from SplatShop is green and looks more like the normal sort of seal that you would expect to find in a 2 stroke. Any thoughts?

Is it burning any gearbox oil? If so it could be the crank seal.

It has been raining non-stop for days. I was at Wells' Binegar Quarry trial today and was lucky enough to witness an impressive demonstration of underwater diving, while riding a trials bike, in one of the many deep pools of cloudy water.

Interesting thread on Sherco main bearings and crank seal failure

Hi My 2012 ST is loosing oil. Over a period of about 6 trials. plus practising, the oil level goes down from the 450ml that was put in the gearbox, to 200ml. This has done this 3 times now. The oil that comes out is very cloudy. It is not loosing any coolant. Additionally, despite running at 80-1 the bike has white smoke, which does not disappear even when hot. I am thinking that it is a leaking crank seal. Questions: 1. Do you agree that it is a crank seal? 2. If so, which side, or replace both? 3. Do I need to remove or split the engine to replace the crank seals? 4. Any instructions anywhere for replacing crank seals? Thanks