stpauls

Fitting a new crank seal to my 2014 Sherco ST 125. The new seal is the green one on the left, The old seal? is the black one on the right. It does not fit as I would have expected. The seal does not appear to seal. Even though it has been seated, I can pull it out with my finger nails. When I replace the inner and outer clutch baskets and then tighten the centre nut to 45 lb/ft both lock solid (without clutch plates fitted. Remove the crank seal and tighten the centre nut and they turn freely. I am wondering if the main bearing is in fact a sealed bearing and it does not actually have a seperate crank seal bearing? Any thoughts? Thanks

Thanks for your replies. I will have a go at photos tomorrow - never done it before. If this was a greased bearing originally, then there is no grease left in it that I can see. If I go ahead and fit the new seal, how would it be lubricated, I wonder? Should I fill the bearing with grease? What sort - ordinary grease? Ideas?

There was only the flat seal - nothing else. I suspect that it was the seal on the sealed bearing. It shows a seal here: http://www.shercousa.com/pdfs/2014sparebook_trial-2T.pdf However, I am now wondering just how accurate this exploded diagram of a 2014 125 is?

Replacing the crank seal on a Sherco ST 250. So I bought a new seal from SplatShop, but it is completely different from the seal that I removed. The seal I removed is just flat, like a flat washer that is covered in black plastic on one side. The new seal from SplatShop is green and looks more like the normal sort of seal that you would expect to find in a 2 stroke. Any thoughts?

Is it burning any gearbox oil? If so it could be the crank seal.

It has been raining non-stop for days. I was at Wells' Binegar Quarry trial today and was lucky enough to witness an impressive demonstration of underwater diving, while riding a trials bike, in one of the many deep pools of cloudy water.

Interesting thread on Sherco main bearings and crank seal failure

Hi My 2012 ST is loosing oil. Over a period of about 6 trials. plus practising, the oil level goes down from the 450ml that was put in the gearbox, to 200ml. This has done this 3 times now. The oil that comes out is very cloudy. It is not loosing any coolant. Additionally, despite running at 80-1 the bike has white smoke, which does not disappear even when hot. I am thinking that it is a leaking crank seal. Questions: 1. Do you agree that it is a crank seal? 2. If so, which side, or replace both? 3. Do I need to remove or split the engine to replace the crank seals? 4. Any instructions anywhere for replacing crank seals? Thanks

Somerset clubs and nearby clubs that are likely to provide ridable sections for a true Novice rider are: Somerton and District Blackmore Vale Mendip Vale Cheltenham Home Guard Zona 1 Stroud Valley Southampton MCC Wilts Border MCC You could more or less guarantee that the Novice sections provided by the above clubs would be safe and ridable for a true Novice rider. Other clubs, such as Taunton, Kingswood and Yeo Vale provide Novice sections, but in my experience these may well prove to be too challenging or unsafe for the true Novice rider and might be best avoided initially - IMHO.

Looking for improved torque and/or power from my Sherco 125. I don't want to get a bigger bike/engine because I don't want to loose the agile handling. Anyone fitted Boyesen Power Reeds to their 125? What were the effects? Would you recommend installing them? What about a High or Very High S3 cylinder head insert? Any performance gain? Thanks

Prior to my Sherco I had a 2013 Beta Evo 250. The stickers were lifting within a couple of weeks. After a while I purchased a second set. It was not too long before they too started to lift, so in the end as they fell off I did not replace them. Additionally, the mudguards on the Beta Evo are made of glass. I replaced the front one three times and the rear twice. The stickers that came with the rear mudguards also jumped ship at the earliest available opportunity. From memory this all cost about £300 !!! Combined with occasionally jumping out of first or second gear, mid section, under power, at very low speed, usually when suddenly cracking the throttle open, going uphill. Finding yourself suddenly in neutral was a bit unnerving to say the least !!! This might happen perhaps once in every 4 or 5 trials and got me several 5s and made me hesitant - afraid at times when tackling risky sections. Anyone purchasing a Beta Evo 2012 or 2013 should check this gearbox issue out before buying a second-hand one - plenty of threads on the Beta section about Evos jumping out of gear. (Also of the necks snapping on 2009/10 models). Because of these problems I decided to sell it and buy a new Sherco. So far I have ridden it in 9 trials and to date I have NONE of the above issues (or any others). Even though it is only about a kilogram lighter than the Evo, it feels a LOT lighter and is much more agile than my Evo. The Sherco clutch is very light, gives good control and is as smooth as butter. And never ever sticks. In contrast the Evo clutch always stuck on when it was first started. It could be grabby on/off. I did the Beta clutch fix, as per the instructions on the Beta section of this site. Twice. I used Putoline GP10. Took 2 springs out. Still nowhere as good as the clutch on my Sherco. In my view, Beta stickers are no better or worse that Sherco stickers, although other aspects of a 2014 Sherco ST are better than a Beta Evo IMHO. I am still at a loss about how to reattach my stickers though.

Some of the stickers or decals on my year old Sherco are starting to lift at the edges. What can I use to stick them down again? Thanks

Beta Technos are also within your budget range, but some of them have reoccurring and sometimes virtually incurable rear brake issues.

Thanks

Hi I was using 2nd gear.

I have a Sherco 125. In one particular section today, just a slight initial slope, soaking wet, in thick, slippery clay/mud, I could not get any traction at all - to even get near the tricky bits. I have Michelin x11 on the front and an X lite on the rear. Front was 6 pounds and the rear was 3 pounds. I am around 15 stone. What pressures might help?

You could contact Talon in Yeovil, England, Great Britain, They make sprockets and may be able to make you one.

Here in the south west of England there are no trials meetings held on Remembrance Sunday. However, in other parts of the country they are - North Lincs and Stanley, to name but two. There are also 1st Division football matches held and rugby too - I believe. Many other sporting events are also taking place. So I wonder if now, after 70 years have passed since the end of the Second World War, trials meetings should once again take place on Remembrance Sunday? This should include a respectful period of silence at 11AM, to remember those that fell. What do you think?

Re the proposed Chinese-built nuclear reactor at Hinkley Point, in Somerset, England, UK. In 1607 there was a tsunami/flood, which covered that site and the areas surrounding it. A wall of water, perhaps 30 feet high drowned thousands of people in the lowlands surrounding the Bristol Channel. It reached inland as far as Glastonbury Tor! There was a BBC Timewatch programme about it. You can watch it on Youtube. It is called "The Killer Wave of 1607". Think what could/would happen if/when it happens again.

Does anyone know how to date a Sherco from the frame or engine number?

I was watching Wheeler Dealer, which is a "repair an old car and sell it on" programme on Sky Discovery Turbo. They recommended using acetone for removing burnt on, crusty oil deposits from a cooler. They had a gallon container of the stuff. First, one end was plugged, then they poured some acetone in. After that the other end was plugged and then it was shaken, then left, then shaken again and left. I guess this was repeated over several hours. Because it is volatile, when you pour it out, you just leave it for a while and the acetone will evaporate away. Anyone tried this method for decoking a mid silencer?

There are 3 countersunk self-tapping screws. Two are obvious when you have removed the long, black plastic guard, which protects the tank and exhaust from debris thrown off the back wheel. The third is well hidden inside an alloy bracket which holds the silencer to the frame.

Hi Thanks for the info.

Hi I want to replace the packing in the rear section of my 2014 Sherco ST 125's exhaust. Questions: 1. Where are the screws that hold in the black (plastic?) tailpipe, because I can only see one? 2. Which is the best exhaust packing, wool, string or sheet? Thanks

I use Duckswax. I used to use dubbing, but have used Duckswax for a year or so on both my Garne boots and my Wulfsport boots, which I use in the wet or very muddy conditions. Works well - better than dubbing in my opinion. I get mine from Active Bikesport but e.bay also sell it.