stpauls

I assume that you are joking - aren't you? However, this does create problems in several ways. For instance the chaps who set out the Novice/Yellow route can get a totally false impression of what is a realistic course for a true Novice - a person who has just started, or who has limited experience, or who only rides their bike once a month, rather than the rider who has moved down from Expert or Clubman class and is now riding the Novice sections, This is quite a regular occurrence in my experience (of over 60 trials). Novice sections being set out too hard or even dangerous will and does result in beginners giving up trials. I spoke to a new Novice a few weeks ago who had lost heart and was giving up competitions because the majority of sections were too hard for the second week running. In these litigious times, a dangerous Novice section that resulted in serious injury or God forbid, the death of a competitor could leave the club or even the organisers personally liable - despite the disclaimer being signed by the competitor.

Hello Does anyone know what time the trial at Breakheart Quarry, Dursley, Glos starts on 11/1/15? Thanks

Hi The number of ACU Trials riders would give some indication for the UK. You would have to add on a percentage for non-ACU riders. Others would perhaps be more qualified to estimate that percentage. Perhaps other countries have an association similar to the ACU too?

Thanks for the info. Thanks to Delboy's Garage too. Thanks to everyone.

Yes, it would be the wiper, rather than the actual seal. Thanks. It also has a "spring" collar, which goes around it, to keep it snug against the fork tube. Do I still follow the advice given above about using a cardboard (or a plastic) tube, to push it back down in? Thanks

Hi The left hand fork seal popped out of my Evo today. I had a quick go at putting it back in, but no success. Is there an easy method? It is an SKF (green) seal. Thanks in anticipation.

I started trials a year ago and have now ridden in over 50 trials, usually riding the Novice/Yellow route, which is usually the easiest/beginners route. This is what I have discovered: Different clubs have vastly different ideas about what constitutes a Novice/Yellow route (or section). In my experience 25% of meetings have a majority of sections that are too hard - or even dangerous for a Novice rider. My point is this - you will probably find that you are able to complete the majority, or even all of the sections in the trial that you enter. However, if you discover that the sections have been made too difficult (probably set out by Expert, or past Expert riders, who have forgotten what is a realistically challenging section for a Novice rider to attempt) don't be put off, just try another meeting, with another club the following week. This is what I did - and still do. Avoid meetings who are advertised as "Cup", "Championship" or "Championship Round". However, if the meeting is promoted as "classic" or "twinshock" then they are likely to have well differentiated sections and have genuine Novice routes. So, go along and just have fun and enjoy the experience. Too hard? Try another club the following week. PS. You will probably need an ACU card to enter.

My Evo 250 jumped out of 1st yesterday. Luckily it was just before the section started. This was not the first time.

Wish I had gone to the Breakheart Quarry trial, rather than to the Bath and West of England Trial at Durham Woods, near Bath, that was on the same day. The Novice sections at Durham Woods were far too difficult and poorly thought out for novices. £20 down the drain. Give them a miss next time.

Hi Anyone know what time the meeting starts? Thanks

Does anyone know who stocks or can obtain these shim washers? Part numbers? Thanks

Hi, these will fit from Raceline on eBay Raceline Cast AJP Brake / Clutch Levers (GasGas, Beta, Scorpa, Montesa). Short levers. To stop your levers snapping off, you need to adjust them so that when you pull in your front brake or clutch levers, the ball on the end of the lever is about 1.5 inches from the end of the handlebars. Another way of explaining it is to adjust the position of the brake and clutch levers on the handlebars, so that when you extend your index fingers, they grab the end of the lever, just behind the ball on the end of the lever. Or, adjust the position to allow for two fingers to grip the levers, rather than having room for all four fingers on the lever. So, you are moving the levers in towards the steering head

Hi Last Christmas (2013) I bought a pair of Wulf boots (about £110 EBay). The stiff, thick leather uppers give lots of protection, but not a great deal of feel. Also they were a bit uncomfortable, due to the middle strap holder digging in to my ankle. So, 3 months later, in March/April of this year I bought a pair of Gaerne Oiled boots from Bikesport at Chewton Mendip (£240 ish). Very comfortable, but not a lot of protection for your foot. When the (thinnish) leather gets wet, it becomes very soft - like a trainer, and foot protection disappears. I have hurt the side of my foot twice, bashing rocks or stumps. I also hurt the arch of my foot when the bike kicked back and my foot was not completely on the kickstart. So, if I think it will be wet or rocky then I wear the Wulf boots, with a foam pad to stop the strap holder from digging in. Gaerne Oiled? I would not bother again. PS. The foam pad that I use, to stop the strap holder from digging in to my ankle, would ride up when I walked about. I stuck some Velcro on to the foam and now it stays in place, without moving.

I have had the same problem with melted black nylon or whatever my trials pants are made from, on the exhaust pipe of my Evo. I used a rotary wire brush in my electric drill. It removes all traces of the melted fabric. I tried to buy an exhaust guard, but apparently no one makes one.

I need to renew my insurance for my road registered Beta Evo 250 2T. I was with Bennetts for my Beta Techno 250 but apparently they cannot get me insurance for my Evo. Who do you use? Any recommendations? Thanks in anticipation.

Hello all The kickstart retaining bolt on my Evo 250 keeps vibrating loose. The kickstart actually fell off at one trial, but luckily someone found it for me. This is the retaining bolt that screws into the end of the kickstart shaft. I have tried Blue Locktite and also a star washer. Any ideas? Thanks

I completely agree. It was an excellent day, challenging in parts but lots of fun. Well organised too. Thanks

Rode in a Time Trial last year, at Scar's Wood, at the end of the Bristol Airport runway. 50+ riders setting off at perhaps 20 second intervals, on a non-stop, tricky trials route. Very scary stuff, compared to trials. Others riding at speed, overtaking - even on/in sections, with little apparent care for their own or other's safety was my take on it. Dangerous stuff. I prefer trials.

Re: Techno rear brake packing in. I would get the rear brake working - it would lock the back wheel if I wanted it to. It would be ok when I practiced. But, at virtually every trial meeting it would begin to fade at some point, then become ineffective, leaving me with no rear brake and so often retiring early. I never solved the problem, so I sold it - for that reason only. Techno 250 V Evo 250 ? Evo has a good rear brake. Evo is lighter, but there is not a lot in it in my opinion. The Evo's suspension is better, despite the Techno's suspension being rebuilt - the rear shock professionally. This gives you more grip, especially when riding across uneven slopes The Evo's stickers fall off. The Evo is happier making tighter turns than the Techno. Newer engine and drivetrain means the Evo is quieter and smoother. The Techno's riding position was better (for me) than the Evo's Virtually the same engine, but the Evo's is smoother, tighter (less miles) and has a power switch for snappier power at higher revs. The Evo is a better bike - much more reliable, but the performance difference (apart from the brakes) is not "night and day" IMHO

I got rid of my 1999 Techno last year because the back brake would pack in at some point during virtually every one of the 20 or so trials that I entered. I rebuilt the complete braking system, changing everything for new, apart from the disc. It would still pack in during every trial, leaving me with no back brake and stopping me from finishing. This was my only complaint with the Techno. This was/is a known problem with the Techno. Got fed up with it and bought an Evo. No more brake issues.

I am sorry to have write this, but I have been to yet another trial today, where, IMHO the sections were poorly thought out and many sections were too severe for the average Novice, the Sportsman was more like Expert and some parts of Expert were an (serious) accident waiting to happen! I spoke to a group riding the Sportsman route who thought that it was ridiculous and were going home after doing the twelve sections once, rather than doing them three times. Others were heard to say that they would not bother with this club's meetings in the future. So, remember that if the sections are too hard then people will not come back to the next event. So, organisers, please think about differentiation and severity. Think carefully and be realistic about your expectations and the challenges that you are setting, especially for the new/less able/older rider, and for those who just want to have a bit of fun riding the Novice sections. Because, if you don't then riders will become disillusioned and leave the sport, then the sport will become even less popular. This was my 46th trial in the past 12 months, so I can make some comparisons between trials organised by different clubs in the south west of England I consider that seven of these had the majority/most of the Novice sections set at an inappropriately severe level of difficulty. . Elsewhere in this thread "Zippy" makes a useful generalization about challenge and severity of sections for the different levels at trial meetings. It is from the USA but is equally applicable to the UK. I have repeated these useful observations below: Quote from Zippy: As far as severity goes (and this is just a generalization) Beginner = In the start and find their way to the end, usually a turn or two (class is for learning section markers, etc.) Novice = couple of turns and a small log or two, all can be ridden without touching the clutch, Intermediate = medium logs, tighter turns, some clutch control needed, turns on hill. Sportsman = most difficult half of Intermediate and easiest half of Advanced sections. Advanced = Big obstacles with plenty of run up/out and places to put feet, tight turns (hopping not necessary but makes it easier), steep hill climbs, etc. . Expert = Big obstacles hardly any run up/out with less spots to foot, tight and super tight turns, and a couple of sections that are "Screw em they are the top guys and can't get any higher in class" make it hard! So, organisers please think carefully about your expectations and the challenges that you are setting, especially for new/less able/older or, the rider who just wants to have fun, riding the Novice sections.

Buy a copy of TMX at your newsagent for £2.30 (not all newsagents stock them). It has most of the trials competitions listed. Using TMX I am able to take part in a trial every single weekend throughout the year, all within 60 miles of my home near Bath.

Starting in trials - having a go. First of all, buy yourself a copy of TMX. It is a weekly trials/motocross newspaper and costs about £2.30. I get mine every Friday It has most of the trials events held nationally listed in the back section. There will be a trials meeting within 50 miles of your address most weeks. Best advice is to go along and watch a trials meeting first, but this is not essential. If you do decide to enter a trials competition, then virtually any trials bike will do, but a modernish one, 125 - 250cc, perhaps 10 years old and costing £1000 or so might be best initially. You will need a pair of trials boots, an open-face helmet and a pair of motorbike gloves. You don't need to join a club, but you need an ACU card to enter most events. Apply online - it costs around £10 per year (I cant remember exactly). Then, find a trials meeting and just go along. Get there about an hour before the meeting starts. You will need to "sign on" to enter the competition and this will cost anywhere between £8 - £20 with around £15 being the most common (in my experience). You must remember to take your ACU card with you to every meeting. You should ask to enter the "Easy" class initially (usually Yellow class). There are usually 10 or 12 sections, and you usually complete each section 4 times. Someone will watch you and record how many times you put your foot down. Watch some other riders, who are riding the same Yellow colour section as you are first, to see how they do it. Try to copy them. If you consider that a section, or part of a section is too hard, then don't do it, or, just do part of it. However, you also need to be aware that different clubs have varying ideas about what "Easy" means. One club's Yellow sections may be really easy, another's easy, with a few tricky sections, but a third could be really hard - perhaps with some sections that could be considered potentially dangerous for the less experienced rider. In the 40 meetings that I have ridden in, over the last year, only 3 meetings have had some sections that I considered too dangerous for the Easy or Yellow class rider. Unfortunately, you won't know until you actually get there and actually see it. So, if it looks too hard then just don't do that section. If it looks ok then have a go. The main thing is to have fun and don't worry about points. Finally, in my (limited) experience, most trials people are friendly and will be more than happy to answer any questions or help you. Enjoy.

Thanks

Thanks