stpauls

Do Rev 3s have glass (fragile) rear mudguards? Are all spares generally available? Thanks

Yep, a 300 could be underpowered for you. Perhaps you could get it bored out to 500cc.

First you could try removing two of the 6 clutch springs - diagonally opposite each other, for a lighter clutch pull. I have removed 2 on my previous 250 and 3 on my current 125, with no slipping at all. If you remove two, it will make the clutch pull about 1/3 lighter. If it slips, then just put them back in.

Stiff - rubbing in places perhaps, but not tight

Nonsense. I don't agree with the above post at all. Kingswood hold excellent trials, but their Novice sections tend to often be difficult/ very difficult - especially for a complete novice rider. Also, avoid Championships - often too difficult, even for very experienced Novice riders. A FAR better choice of clubs would be Somerton (the best choice for a Novice rider) Blackmore Vale, Breakheart Quarry, Stroud, Zona 1, Cheltenham Home Guard, Taunton or Hawks Cheltenham. Additionally, any of the Classics clubs usually have a Monoshock (modern bike) class for the Over 50s. If a Novice rides a few Novice sections and finds them too difficult, intimidating or dangerous then they will often pack it in and not go again. I think that Yeo Vale is a great club, often with excellent - challenging Novice sections, but I would hesitate to recommend it to a true Novice rider, with little or no experience,

My 2014 Evo had three new rear fenders (and a couple of fronts) in the year that I had it. Expensive game. On my Sherco, you can bend the rear fender into a loop without it breaking! Same fender for 2 years now!

Is yours a rear tanker? If so your fuel system is a little bit different to this, For instance I think your fuel filler cap is elsewhere. The "box" is a fuel pump. They don't go wrong. 1. Disassemble and clean the carb. 2. I suspect that you have perished "rubber" fuel hose. It will leak air in/leak fuel out. Replace the lot. You will need perhaps nearly a metre. Take photos first, before disassembly. 3. You sure that there is no fuel tap where the hose exits the bottom of the fuel tank? If so, the lever should be forward for on. They are tiny. Snapped off? PS: When cold, mine is reluctant to start if there is little fuel in the tank. PPS: Plastic box? I wonder if you have a secondary (chain saw) fuel filter fitted? Like this -

Here is a picture of the fuel line on a 2013/14. All mine had hardened and were brittle. Any leak causes issues.

If I remember correctly, it would refuse to run on tickover and was reluctant to start. It would also just die. I forgot to say that at the 3rd meeting it appeared that fuel poured out of the carb continuously when it was started. I had signed on, but not even ridden the first section. I just went home and started to investigate. I wouldn't describe it as a nightmare. My brand new 2013 Beta Evo 250 would sometimes jump out of first or second gear. Mid section. Lost me lots of points. Made me afraid. It turned out that I was not alone. It was a manufacturing fault - the selector fork was too thin and springy. That was a nightmare. Trials bikes need ongoing maintenance - especially older ones. Remember that the fuel line on these bikes is pumped - slightly pressurised, not gravity fed like most trials bikes. Also, from memory, it is perhaps nearly 2 feet long, with several joints, a pump. check valve, auto air vent etc. Not unreliable, just different. You have the weight of the fuel where you need it - over the back wheel, not the front wheel! That's one of the reasons that these rear tankers feel so light and nimble compared to other models and makes.

I can always do a trial on one tank of fuel. Then once I had to use reserve at the start of the 4th lap. The next week I ran out of fuel and had to walk back for the fuel can. Additionally, my 2014 Sherco ST rear tanker was having starting issues and then when running, fuel APPEARED to be running out of the carb and down beneath the overflow pipes. If it is a rear petrol tank model (which I think yours is) then you need to take the carb off, dismantle it and clean everything, to make sure that dirt is not interfering with the float mechanism. When you reassemble the airbox onto the mouth of the carb, be sure to lightly oil the outside of the carb mouth and the inside of the airbox "trumpet" with a finger of two stroke oil so that it slips back on EASILY. It may be fixed. Mine wasn't. If not, then (and this was my bike's problem) check very carefully that the rubber fuel breather pipe/pump bypass loop that runs up the OUTSIDE of the fuel tank (underneath the rear mudguard) is not holed or split. It turned out that mine was and was causing fuel to leak out. (These bikes have a small, separate fuel pump, which I assume kept pumping fuel and probably air into the float chamber). Anyway, after disassembling the carb a couple of times, I spotted the leak in the fuel loop. The fuel pipe had hardened after only 2 - 2.5 years. I replaced all the rubber fuel lines and the problem was solved.

Soft, flexible, pliable trials boots offer less protection than stiffer boots - especially when your foot slams into a stump or rock. I have a pair of Garne Oiled boots, which are very soft and comfortable. I also have a pair of Wulfsport trials boots, which are much stiffer, but less comfortable. However, they do provide MUCH more foot and ankle protection. Both pairs of boots are now four years old. From memory the Garnes were double the price of the Wulfs.

There are many more 2 stroke than 4 stroke trials bikes at any trials meeting - perhaps eight to one or more. This is for a reason. Best stick to 2 strokes.

Bultacos should be red. The blue ones just don't look right.

Sherco's have 5. On my 125 I only ever use 1st or 2nd in sections. Same for my Beta 250. Shercos rarely suffer from gearbox issues, unlike the 6 speed Gasgas or Betas.

I had two Betas. The last being a 2013 Beta Evo 250. I tried a 2014 Sherco and found it to be more agile, nimbler and felt lighter. The Beta would wash out on tight upward turns, but the Sherco never does. Betas have expensive mudguards that are made of glass and the "stickers" don't. I would buy another Sheco, but not a Beta.

My 2013 Beta Evo 250 would occasionally jump out of first or second gear, mid section. At first I thought that it was just me, but research in the Beta forum revealed that this was a common issue. Apparently it was caused by the selector fork being made of steel that was too thin and springy. 2013 was not the only year to have this issue. I have now changed to Sherco, but I understand that the newer Betas do not have this issue.

Fry’s Bottom, Chelwood, Bristol, BS39 5QL Call Steve Wilcox on 07814 767259

Replaced the master cylinder piston and seals, using a service kit, which I had bought for a previous bike, but only used the rubber shroud. Changed the fluid and now have a good rear brake again.

Checked fluid. The reservoir was still full up.

The rear brake has stopped working on my 2014 ST. Press the pedal and it just goes straight down, with little resistance and no braking. I changed the pads, just in case, but no luck. Seals? Master or caliper? Any way of telling? Thanks in anticipation

Get yourself a girlfriend.

I wonder why Sherco (and Gasgas) don't make a 160cc or a 200cc bike any more? Beta do.

I went to Sherco after my 2013 Beta Evo developed the Beta habit of jumping out gear, due to the gear selector fork being too thin (well documented in the "Beta" section). I was also fed up with the glass mudguards, which cost a fortune and the "stickers" which didn't. Refitting the airbox on a rear tanker is just a knack. It helps if you put a spot of oil/grease on the carb outer and the airbox inner. The fuel pump is old technology that is reliable and trouble free - commonly used on garden lawn mowers, chainsaws and other such kit. Lower yokes hitting the frame are simply remedied by fitting a piece of plastic conduit as a guard, as the Sherco guard is of a poor design. All trials bikes have their good and bad points.

Before you do the above... A few months ago I fitted a new Apico gear lever on my Sherco 125, after I had bent the original. I fitted the gear lever onto the gearbox shaft splines, then rode it around the garden. I could only select neutral, first and second. I could not get 3rd, 4th and 5th. When I looked very closely, I could see that the lever was hitting against part of the crank case. I repositioned the lever one spline lower on the shaft and all was ok. So, check that the lever arm is not hitting the crank case before you pull anything apart.

What was it called?