stpauls

An old thread I know, but anyone have one? The bike in the pictures below is a 125. Currently for sale on E.bay It has the lovely chromed High-boy frame. The bike I have is similar. However, it has the Sammy Miller 150cc conversion. Mine also has a shorter frame loop, that goes over rear mudguard. Mine is 4.5 inches shorter than the one in the picture. The loop ends directly over the top of the silencer bolt. I am just starting a total restoration. I will post some pictures shortly.

Thanks

Where is the engine serial number located on a Honda TL 125 made around 1980? Thanks

I was talking to a chap at a trial at Bunny Lane, Sherfield English a couple of years ago. He had bought a new old stock one from somewhere in Australia. It could have been E,Bay Australia?

What about using an EM electric motor in, say, an old 125 Bantam twinshock frame? Eligible for pre 65? Twinshock?

Thanks everyone for your replies. Much appreciated.

How about some new stickers that don't fall off as soon as you threaten them with a pressure washer? Never mind the rest of the "improvements"

Like everyone else I used Michelins, with an X Light on the rear. Last autumn I changed to IRC on the rear, as they had apparently fixed the issue of the tyre instantly deflating as soon as it hit something hard.. It was fine for 9 months, until during the last few trials it has gone flat when hitting rocks, stones or stumps. This used to be a problem with brand new IRCs, but they fixed the issue. Anyone else finding IRCs now deflating after a number of months? Had enough of IRCs deflating and spoiling my results, so I fitted a new X Light last night. Not quite so good in slippery, muddy conditions as IRC but more reliable. Best stick with Michelin. Update - March 2020: 7 months after fitting the Michelin it still holds it's pressure, with no leaks, proving that it was the IRC tire, not the wheel rim or valve. The IRC is now on my twinshock, with a tube in it.

I had considered if it was the loose pads and floating disc that were giving me that bit of movement/sensation. I am still unsure.

If there is a small amount of movement in the forks, can you tighten/adjust the steering head bearings on a 2016 Sherco, or will they need replacing? Any video links showing how? Thanks

My Shercos have sawn through my Wulfsport boots, but not my Garnes. Both pairs of boots were purchased about 5 years ago and tend to be worn alternately. The left Wulfsport boot wore through after perhaps 2 years and I had to sew a leather patch on it myself as no cobbler could/would repair them. When you look at the Wulf boots they are actually baggy around the ankle and stick out a bit and rub against the chain. The leather patch is now wearing through.

Try taking the cheek pieces out - many just unclip/pop off. This gives a much looser fit. That is what I have done with my Wulfsport XXL helmet.

I have been considering getting a Spanish twin shock, from the 70s, to ride Twinshock Trials. Which make is likely to be the most reliable? Usable? Trouble free? Spares availability? Anything else? Any comments and advice welcome and appreciated.

The trouble with Camelbacks, cycling bottle cages etc is that they identify you as an unskilled novice rider. Expert riders always carry their cups in their left hand and hardly spill a drop in the sections.

What is the best fuel tank sealer to use on a leaking fiberglass fuel tank? Does anyone make an aluminium fuel tank that fits under the fuel tank of a Montesa Cota? Thanks

Inspecting some of the Pre-65 machines that I regularly see at trials meets, it is sometimes hard to identify which bits exactly are pre 65 and which parts are replica, modern upgrades or even bits that were not available or even invented at the time! Then you have the hidden modern bits, such as Yamaha pistons in Bantams, modern internals in older forks etc.

I didn't realise that TRS had reliability issues. Any other common issues that I need to be aware of?

My then NEW 2014 Beta Evo 250 used to jump out of first or second gear sometimes, mid section, even though I had not touched the gear lever. It did this from new. I kept it for about a year then totally fed up I sold it and bought a Sherco. I thought Beta had sorted it, but I was chatting to a chap a few weeks ago whose year old Beta 300 was jumping out of gear, mid section, without him going near the gear lever, so obviously not. At that time the thinking was that in an effort to save weight, Beta had made the selector fork out of steel that was so thin that it was flexing, so not fully engaging the gear.

The air filter is unusually fiddly and awkward to remove/refit. Helps if you have very small hands. You cannot easily check the radiator coolant level, without first removing the airbox and tank. However, when you check the coolant level, roughen up the edges of the filler plug, so you can grip it with your fingers next time. Reassemble. Next time you want to check the coolant level, release the 3 radiator holding screws and wedge the radiator back as far as it will easily go. Then use a shortened allen key to loosen the filler plug. Use your fingertips to unscrew completely. Next. use a hypodermic syringe with a piece of flexible plastic tube on the end to check the coolant level and add if necessary. (I use a piece of heat shrink-fit cable shroud).

A Beta Evo has an adjuster on the throttle cable, near the twist grip. A Sherco ST doesn't. Would a Beta Evp throttle cable fit a Sherco ST I wonder?

Jon Bliss from up in the Cotswolds, in England has made himself a trials bike with a TRS frame and a cheap Chinese 200cc (I think) 4 stroke engine. The curious thing is that the motor looks more "right" in the frame than the TRS motor that it replaced.

I only spray the outside of the filter, but this may not be the best way. I have used two different makes of air filter oil, including Motul air filter oil. Both come out of the spray can in jets, rather than as a mist or spray. Is this usual?

On the 2016 Sherco ST 250 it appears not possible to check the radiator coolant level, or to top it up, without first removing the airbox, tank etc. Is there any solution? Thanks

My 2016 Sherco's clutch looks very similar. Would this work on a Sherco, with a dragging clutch, I wonder?

Have you tried Time Trials? Plenty near Somerset.