stpauls

I had a 2014 125. After about 2 years of riding every weekend in competitions and the occasional practice for an hour or so, the top end was a bit rattly, although it still went well. The bore looked fine and the piston skirt had a bit of rubbing/scuffing. I was advised to change the piston, piston rings. wrist pin and little end bearing. After dismantling it I discovered that the little end bearing was obviously very loose. The wrist pin had wear that you couldn't see but you could feel. Apparently the wrist pin hole through the piston becomes slightly elongated after hundreds of hours of use. This wear leaves a slight gap, which produces more rattle as the bits wear and the gaps grow. When I assembled the new bits and compared them to the old, the wear was very apparent. The new piston and associated bits made the motor much less rattly. I bought the bits online from Splatshop. PS: I used the same sized piston and the bore was unmarked, with no ridges.

In the process of rebuilding a Sammy Miller Honda Highboy 150cc twinshock. I need to make a plate to lower the footpegs, 2" down and perhaps 1" back. It will either be welded or bolted to the existing plate. It will be 1/4" or 5mm steel.. Should I use mild steel, bdms, stainless (chromed frame) or something else? Anyone know what the original steel plate is? Thanks in anticipation.

We are supposed to be staying in/at home, due to the corona virus. The ACU is advising everyone not to ride at all during this nightmare.

I wonder if you are referring to Helicopter tape - the tape that is made to protect the leading edge of helicopter rotor blades? Don't know where to buy it now.

The poofs down at Taunton cancelled their trial for this week {15/3/20) because of VD, but Stroud are made of sterner stuff and theirs is going ahead today.

It is a screw, about 30mm long, with a knurled head. Tricky to get out but great fun to put back in!

Helps if you have small hands. Still tricky though and can be frustrating. My 2014 was much, much easier to clean.

I think you should name your bike an I Tal Jet - to acknowledge the Chinese motor.

Honda TL

What is reconed to be the best product to line a leaking steel fuel tank? I have soldered all the leaks and tested it under pressure. However, I suspect that it won't be too long before other leaks develop. Thanks in anticipation

I have a pair of Wulfsport and a pair of Gaerne oiled, both about 6 years old. The Wulfs are heavier, stiffer and offer much more protection. They also were very, very uncomfortable for the first few months. The Gaernes were comfortable from day one. However, the leather is softer and more supple and when wet become softer still. This means that the FOOT area doesn't offer very good protection. In contrast, the Wulfs are stiff even when soaked through. I still wear both boots, alternately and a year ago bought a new pair of Gaerne Black. However these are very tight and I have yet to wear them to a trial

On my 2016 and 2014 Shercos, you can tighten the brake lever pivot bolt, to reduce / eliminate up and down play. I can't remember if you can do this on a Beta.

On the rear tankers, the fuel pipe goes up to the top of the tank, then back down again, The pipe goes hard and splits. This can result in all sorts of strange things happening. In the 3 years that I had my 2014 I replaced the entire plastic fuel pipe at least twice. I also had an "overflowing carb" which turned out to be coming from a split in the fuel line NEAR the carb.

I am wondering if you have your levers mounted in the wrong position. Try loosening them on the handlebar clamps then move them inwards towards the steering head, until the tips of the levers are at least 1.5 inches in from the end of the handle bars. However, the best solution is not to fall off in the first place.

Hi I want to remove two rusty, seized 6mm exhaust studs from a 45 year old Honda 4 stroke alloy barrel, as I need to install longer ones. I have soaked them in WD40 for 2 weeks. I have also heated the studs to cherry red. I then tried turning them, using two locked nuts, but they won't turn. I am afraid they will shear off if I put any more pressure on them. They are not currently snapped off, so I don't need to drill them out. However, I do want them out. What to do? Anyone have experience of doing this? Thanks

If you are left handed then a Beta is a bonus. Otherwise it is awkward.

The LAST thing that any beginner to Trials needs is a 300!

Lets put this into context. I had a Beta 250 Techno - one of the last ones made. That NEVER jumped out of gear. My Brand new 2014 Beta Evo 250 would sometimes jump out of 1st or 2nd gear mid section, without me touching the gear lever. I kept it for a year. I would have ridden around 50 trial competitions and lost marks in SOME of them due to jumping out of gear. Asking around I discovered that lots of people had experienced their Beta jumping out of gear - some more than others - a lot more. Fed up with Betas jumping out of gear I changed to Sherco. I have now had two Shercos. Neither have EVER jumped out of gear - not even once. Nothing to do with trials, but I also had a Honda Goldwing GL 1800 for 7 years. Jumping out of gear under hard acceleration was a known fault with them and would sometimes result in a wrecked gearbox. The thinking was that the gearbox was too fragile for the huge amount of torque produced by the 1800 cc flat six motor.

Anyone know what bearings or bushes Sammy Miller used in his Honda TL 125 Hi-boy frames, around 1979? I have yet to take it apart to find out what's there. Thanks

I have now done some diy nickel plating at home. All you need for diy nickel plating is a power source, such as an old phone charger, a strip of pure nickel (e,bay) some white vinegar and some hydrochloric acid (One Shot drain cleaner). I have got good results so far with nuts, bolts and a fabricated brake pedal. Lots more to do. It's easy. Lots of videos on YouTube.

Are the frame front down-tubes still ok? The fork triple trees hit the frame down tubes on these and can collapse the tube/s, weakening the frame and perhaps eventually causing movement and stresses at other places.

Just wondering. What would happen if you put the correct bolt back in, with a touch of silicone just around the shoulder of the head of the bolt? The bolt thread would be sealing the break-through. Would that work? Perhaps a permanent fix?

Odds and ends, plus a bit of the frame loop.

Any experiences of DIY zinc and/or nickel plating at home? Plenty of videos on YouTube. Success or failure? Tips and hints appreciated. Early Sammy Miller High Boy frames. Chrome or nickel? Can you nickel plate over chrome? Can you nickel plate over old, sound nickel plating?

Stainless it is then. Thanks