stpauls

I have a pair of Wulfsport and a pair of Gaerne oiled, both about 6 years old. The Wulfs are heavier, stiffer and offer much more protection. They also were very, very uncomfortable for the first few months. The Gaernes were comfortable from day one. However, the leather is softer and more supple and when wet become softer still. This means that the FOOT area doesn't offer very good protection. In contrast, the Wulfs are stiff even when soaked through. I still wear both boots, alternately and a year ago bought a new pair of Gaerne Black. However these are very tight and I have yet to wear them to a trial

On my 2016 and 2014 Shercos, you can tighten the brake lever pivot bolt, to reduce / eliminate up and down play. I can't remember if you can do this on a Beta.

On the rear tankers, the fuel pipe goes up to the top of the tank, then back down again, The pipe goes hard and splits. This can result in all sorts of strange things happening. In the 3 years that I had my 2014 I replaced the entire plastic fuel pipe at least twice. I also had an "overflowing carb" which turned out to be coming from a split in the fuel line NEAR the carb.

I am wondering if you have your levers mounted in the wrong position. Try loosening them on the handlebar clamps then move them inwards towards the steering head, until the tips of the levers are at least 1.5 inches in from the end of the handle bars. However, the best solution is not to fall off in the first place.

Hi I want to remove two rusty, seized 6mm exhaust studs from a 45 year old Honda 4 stroke alloy barrel, as I need to install longer ones. I have soaked them in WD40 for 2 weeks. I have also heated the studs to cherry red. I then tried turning them, using two locked nuts, but they won't turn. I am afraid they will shear off if I put any more pressure on them. They are not currently snapped off, so I don't need to drill them out. However, I do want them out. What to do? Anyone have experience of doing this? Thanks

If you are left handed then a Beta is a bonus. Otherwise it is awkward.

The LAST thing that any beginner to Trials needs is a 300!

Lets put this into context. I had a Beta 250 Techno - one of the last ones made. That NEVER jumped out of gear. My Brand new 2014 Beta Evo 250 would sometimes jump out of 1st or 2nd gear mid section, without me touching the gear lever. I kept it for a year. I would have ridden around 50 trial competitions and lost marks in SOME of them due to jumping out of gear. Asking around I discovered that lots of people had experienced their Beta jumping out of gear - some more than others - a lot more. Fed up with Betas jumping out of gear I changed to Sherco. I have now had two Shercos. Neither have EVER jumped out of gear - not even once. Nothing to do with trials, but I also had a Honda Goldwing GL 1800 for 7 years. Jumping out of gear under hard acceleration was a known fault with them and would sometimes result in a wrecked gearbox. The thinking was that the gearbox was too fragile for the huge amount of torque produced by the 1800 cc flat six motor.

Anyone know what bearings or bushes Sammy Miller used in his Honda TL 125 Hi-boy frames, around 1979? I have yet to take it apart to find out what's there. Thanks

I have now done some diy nickel plating at home. All you need for diy nickel plating is a power source, such as an old phone charger, a strip of pure nickel (e,bay) some white vinegar and some hydrochloric acid (One Shot drain cleaner). I have got good results so far with nuts, bolts and a fabricated brake pedal. Lots more to do. It's easy. Lots of videos on YouTube.

Are the frame front down-tubes still ok? The fork triple trees hit the frame down tubes on these and can collapse the tube/s, weakening the frame and perhaps eventually causing movement and stresses at other places.

Just wondering. What would happen if you put the correct bolt back in, with a touch of silicone just around the shoulder of the head of the bolt? The bolt thread would be sealing the break-through. Would that work? Perhaps a permanent fix?

Odds and ends, plus a bit of the frame loop.

Any experiences of DIY zinc and/or nickel plating at home? Plenty of videos on YouTube. Success or failure? Tips and hints appreciated. Early Sammy Miller High Boy frames. Chrome or nickel? Can you nickel plate over chrome? Can you nickel plate over old, sound nickel plating?

Stainless it is then. Thanks

I want to rebuild the wheels on a Honda TL 125 (150cc SM conversion), in a Sammy Miller High Boy frame, whose chrome (nickel?) plating is mostly still in excellent condition. Going to do it myself, along with many other jobs including patching the fuel tank and replacing the kick start ratchet mechanism, as necessary. I also want to polish all the alloy bits, including the hubs. Stainless or standard spokes? The cost seems to be at least double for stainless. It will be ridden in Classic trials a few times a year. Any thoughts?

Some years ago - perhaps 10 or 20, Sammy Miller sold his parts business to someone else. Apparently the stock included about 10 brand new High Boy chrome plated Bultaco frames. These were then sold for around £2000 each.

An old thread I know, but anyone have one? The bike in the pictures below is a 125. Currently for sale on E.bay It has the lovely chromed High-boy frame. The bike I have is similar. However, it has the Sammy Miller 150cc conversion. Mine also has a shorter frame loop, that goes over rear mudguard. Mine is 4.5 inches shorter than the one in the picture. The loop ends directly over the top of the silencer bolt. I am just starting a total restoration. I will post some pictures shortly.

Thanks

Where is the engine serial number located on a Honda TL 125 made around 1980? Thanks

I was talking to a chap at a trial at Bunny Lane, Sherfield English a couple of years ago. He had bought a new old stock one from somewhere in Australia. It could have been E,Bay Australia?

What about using an EM electric motor in, say, an old 125 Bantam twinshock frame? Eligible for pre 65? Twinshock?

Thanks everyone for your replies. Much appreciated.

How about some new stickers that don't fall off as soon as you threaten them with a pressure washer? Never mind the rest of the "improvements"

Like everyone else I used Michelins, with an X Light on the rear. Last autumn I changed to IRC on the rear, as they had apparently fixed the issue of the tyre instantly deflating as soon as it hit something hard.. It was fine for 9 months, until during the last few trials it has gone flat when hitting rocks, stones or stumps. This used to be a problem with brand new IRCs, but they fixed the issue. Anyone else finding IRCs now deflating after a number of months? Had enough of IRCs deflating and spoiling my results, so I fitted a new X Light last night. Not quite so good in slippery, muddy conditions as IRC but more reliable. Best stick with Michelin. Update - March 2020: 7 months after fitting the Michelin it still holds it's pressure, with no leaks, proving that it was the IRC tire, not the wheel rim or valve. The IRC is now on my twinshock, with a tube in it.