stpauls

The sole on my Gaerne Balance oiled boots have now worn flat. Has anyone any experience of resoling, using these soles? Pair Soles Boots Trial Gaerne Balance | eBay Thanks

Thanks for all the replies. All valid and food for thought. My reason for asking was to help me decide whether to keep it pretty much as standard, or to modify it to make it more competitive or even just ridable in the easiest of sections.

Don't worry about winning - just do it for fun.

When I had a 2014 Sherco St I decided to replace the gear lever with one from Jitsie or some such make. Rode it around the garden using neutral and first gear. It was ok. However, when I went to a trial that weekend, I couldn't get any other gear, only neutral and 1st. 2nd worked a few times, intermittently. The problem was that the gear lever was hitting the engine case and stopping me selecting any other gears. Put the engine case back on, refit the gear lever and see if everything is clear and not hitting.

British bikes. What counts as being a Classic British trials bike? I regularly speak to people who ride Bantams fitted with Yamaha? pistons. Clutches that belong in Yamahas. Shocks and levers etc from China. Greeves bikes that were completely manufactured in the 21st century! How about a C15 with a Honda motor fitted? Or, an old C15 or Cub engine fitted into one of those brand new, light weight vintage style frames? Where do clubs draw the line for entries into Classic and/or "British" trials bikes classes? Any thoughts?

Turn your shocks up the other way, to reduce unsprung weight and to avoid knocking the air valve off. You will also find that this improves the feel of them.

Beta: The perennial issue of Betas jumping out of first or second gear - mid-section! Some do, some don't - will yours? Glass mudguards. Sherco: Rear fuel tank models 2012 - 2015 - fork yokes hit frame downtubes and chop through/collapse them. No longer an issue. 2016 only = fiddly air filter and awkward radiator filler (can be overcome using hypo syringe). 2017 onwards have a different clutch, which might not be easily adjustable. TRS: Don't really know, but I have read about different issues.

I am just finishing the total restoration of a 1976 Honda TL 125 SE, with the original Miller 150cc conversion in a Miller Highboy frame. The clutch is virtually the same as the TLR and it's variants. All the clutch components are the ones that came with the bike, apart from new clutch springs, clutch cable and clutch lever, which have been renewed. I have checked that no components are missing, using exploded diagrams on the CMS website The clutch did work before the restoration, but the cable was badly frayed inside the sheath and the clutch arm was dragging against the exhaust pipe - both now rectified. However, the clutch is stiff and gets stiffer as the engine gets hotter, increasing the drag to a point where you cannot change gear without first stopping the engine. What can I do to improve matters? Thanks in anticipation

Old topic I know, but are these clutch lighteners still available anywhere?

Mine is flat, not dished, with pockets for the valves,

Can you retard the ignition on these? If so then retard the ignition by about 4mm (not 4 degrees).

I have bought a new fuel tank, with a screw on aluminium cap. However, it came with no gasket to go between the cap and tank. The original tank has a gasket, which looks like silver card. What material to use to make a disc about 43mm diameter, 3mm thick? Thought about using part of a wellington boot. Ideas? Thanks in anticipation.

Jotagas

Putting a smaller front sprocket will indeed slow it down, but at the same time it will actually increase both power and torque!

Before you change it for something softer, get the ignition timing retarded by about 4mm first. That is 4mm not 4 degrees. That will tame it down. When you become more confident you can get it put back to where it was.

Old post I know, but this post could confuse others searching for information. The poster actually has four wires coming out of the stator. The fifth is the neutral switch wire (green) which runs very close to the stator, before connecting to the neutral sender switch next to it.

Can anyone point me in the direction of a basic wiring diagram for a 1976 Honda TL 125se engine. I have renewed everything excepts the generator. I made detailed records and took photos, but I have no spark, so something is amiss. I need a diagram that does not include the battery, lights and horn etc. Thanks in anticipation

I need a black plastic universal rear fender/mudguard for a Honda TL 125 in a Sammy Miller frame.. I bought a Gonelli from Fecked, but they are short - sort of 3/4 length. I bought a second and tried joining them together, but the profile was wrong and it looked rubbish. They sell white and silver, and other colours are available, but apparently not black. I don't want to paint or use alloy ones. Any ideas?

Hi I am in the process of completely rebuilding a 1976 Honda TL 125se. The basic design of the motor is similar/exactly the same in many respects to the Honda TLR. There is a rubber oil seal in the oil way of the barrel. The TL shares this same part. Anyone know what it does? Here is a link to the part: https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-tlr200-1983-d_model50044/rubber-oil-seal_12271383000/#pageproductModelfit It is part 6 in this diagram:

You see a lot of TY 175/250s at trials meetings here in England, competing at Novice and Clubman level against modern bikes and sometimes winning. I had a silver engined Beamish 250 for a few years . This was a Suzuki RL 250 motor, (the same motor as in your picture) in a chrome plated Beamish frame, which was apparently a big improvement on the Suzuki RL 250, but it was still a poor trials bike. OK as a green laner though. Reliable, and robust, with electronic ignition too. I'd go with the Suzuki. The Beamish owners club is also a good place for Suzuki RL owners too. http://beamishownersclub.com/

1976 Honda TL 125 - 150cc conversion by SM. 1. What engine oil to use? Wet clutch. 2. Various small retaining bolts inside of engine. What torque/s ? Thanks in anticipation.

In the UK we use plastic number plate screws. You will need 3. Here is a link to some on E.Bay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5x-Black-Plastic-Number-Plate-Screws-Black-Bolt-Fixings-Brand-New/293550237171?hash=item4458f525f3:g:ZC0AAOSwW35ekgHt

Hi. Sorry, I have only just noticed your post. Now called Fecked https://www.feked.com/

Sammy Miller sells some.

First check that it is not the fork seals that are weeping. Then you may need to re-soften your copper washer for it to seal properly. Remove the drain screw from the bike. Hang the copper washer on a piece of wire. Use a blowlamp to heat it up to cherry red. Allow it to cool down naturally. Ensure that the underside of the screw and the mating surface are clean and not scratched. Refit bolt and washer. Refill fork oil.