stpauls

It could be the C19 setting? They won't run during lockdown. It protect the NHS A and E.

The easiest way is to use a windy gun - air impact driver. Your local garage would have one and for a few beers would probably wizz it off in seconds.

One bad apple will give the rest of the law abiding trials enthusiasts a bad name.

Best advice is to go on Youtube and watch someone do it. plenty to choose from, Step by Step - How to measuring & adjust valve clearances - YouTube

Get yourself out And spread it about. They paid people to do this in England! No, don't laugh, honestly they did.

There will be a black plastic tab sticking out of the engine case (stator), on the left hand side of the engine. There will also be a thick black "gasket" which is a spacer.

If it's a bit sluggish, check that there is no flywheel weight fitted and also that the timing has not been retarded, Also that it does not have a low compression head, or a thicker/two cylinder base gaskets fitted. People do these things to slow them down and take the edge off the performance.

BlueSpot 12" HACKSAW Carbon Steel 12" Hacksaw Blades - Metal Cutting Saw Trade | eBay

The winner should be the rider with the highest score! the

The sole on my Gaerne Balance oiled boots have now worn flat. Has anyone any experience of resoling, using these soles? Pair Soles Boots Trial Gaerne Balance | eBay Thanks

Thanks for all the replies. All valid and food for thought. My reason for asking was to help me decide whether to keep it pretty much as standard, or to modify it to make it more competitive or even just ridable in the easiest of sections.

Don't worry about winning - just do it for fun.

When I had a 2014 Sherco St I decided to replace the gear lever with one from Jitsie or some such make. Rode it around the garden using neutral and first gear. It was ok. However, when I went to a trial that weekend, I couldn't get any other gear, only neutral and 1st. 2nd worked a few times, intermittently. The problem was that the gear lever was hitting the engine case and stopping me selecting any other gears. Put the engine case back on, refit the gear lever and see if everything is clear and not hitting.

British bikes. What counts as being a Classic British trials bike? I regularly speak to people who ride Bantams fitted with Yamaha? pistons. Clutches that belong in Yamahas. Shocks and levers etc from China. Greeves bikes that were completely manufactured in the 21st century! How about a C15 with a Honda motor fitted? Or, an old C15 or Cub engine fitted into one of those brand new, light weight vintage style frames? Where do clubs draw the line for entries into Classic and/or "British" trials bikes classes? Any thoughts?

Turn your shocks up the other way, to reduce unsprung weight and to avoid knocking the air valve off. You will also find that this improves the feel of them.

Beta: The perennial issue of Betas jumping out of first or second gear - mid-section! Some do, some don't - will yours? Glass mudguards. Sherco: Rear fuel tank models 2012 - 2015 - fork yokes hit frame downtubes and chop through/collapse them. No longer an issue. 2016 only = fiddly air filter and awkward radiator filler (can be overcome using hypo syringe). 2017 onwards have a different clutch, which might not be easily adjustable. TRS: Don't really know, but I have read about different issues.

I am just finishing the total restoration of a 1976 Honda TL 125 SE, with the original Miller 150cc conversion in a Miller Highboy frame. The clutch is virtually the same as the TLR and it's variants. All the clutch components are the ones that came with the bike, apart from new clutch springs, clutch cable and clutch lever, which have been renewed. I have checked that no components are missing, using exploded diagrams on the CMS website The clutch did work before the restoration, but the cable was badly frayed inside the sheath and the clutch arm was dragging against the exhaust pipe - both now rectified. However, the clutch is stiff and gets stiffer as the engine gets hotter, increasing the drag to a point where you cannot change gear without first stopping the engine. What can I do to improve matters? Thanks in anticipation

Old topic I know, but are these clutch lighteners still available anywhere?

Mine is flat, not dished, with pockets for the valves,

Can you retard the ignition on these? If so then retard the ignition by about 4mm (not 4 degrees).

I have bought a new fuel tank, with a screw on aluminium cap. However, it came with no gasket to go between the cap and tank. The original tank has a gasket, which looks like silver card. What material to use to make a disc about 43mm diameter, 3mm thick? Thought about using part of a wellington boot. Ideas? Thanks in anticipation.

Jotagas

Putting a smaller front sprocket will indeed slow it down, but at the same time it will actually increase both power and torque!

Before you change it for something softer, get the ignition timing retarded by about 4mm first. That is 4mm not 4 degrees. That will tame it down. When you become more confident you can get it put back to where it was.

Old post I know, but this post could confuse others searching for information. The poster actually has four wires coming out of the stator. The fifth is the neutral switch wire (green) which runs very close to the stator, before connecting to the neutral sender switch next to it.