stpauls

Putting a smaller front sprocket will indeed slow it down, but at the same time it will actually increase both power and torque!

Before you change it for something softer, get the ignition timing retarded by about 4mm first. That is 4mm not 4 degrees. That will tame it down. When you become more confident you can get it put back to where it was.

Old post I know, but this post could confuse others searching for information. The poster actually has four wires coming out of the stator. The fifth is the neutral switch wire (green) which runs very close to the stator, before connecting to the neutral sender switch next to it.

Can anyone point me in the direction of a basic wiring diagram for a 1976 Honda TL 125se engine. I have renewed everything excepts the generator. I made detailed records and took photos, but I have no spark, so something is amiss. I need a diagram that does not include the battery, lights and horn etc. Thanks in anticipation

I need a black plastic universal rear fender/mudguard for a Honda TL 125 in a Sammy Miller frame.. I bought a Gonelli from Fecked, but they are short - sort of 3/4 length. I bought a second and tried joining them together, but the profile was wrong and it looked rubbish. They sell white and silver, and other colours are available, but apparently not black. I don't want to paint or use alloy ones. Any ideas?

Hi I am in the process of completely rebuilding a 1976 Honda TL 125se. The basic design of the motor is similar/exactly the same in many respects to the Honda TLR. There is a rubber oil seal in the oil way of the barrel. The TL shares this same part. Anyone know what it does? Here is a link to the part: https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-tlr200-1983-d_model50044/rubber-oil-seal_12271383000/#pageproductModelfit It is part 6 in this diagram:

You see a lot of TY 175/250s at trials meetings here in England, competing at Novice and Clubman level against modern bikes and sometimes winning. I had a silver engined Beamish 250 for a few years . This was a Suzuki RL 250 motor, (the same motor as in your picture) in a chrome plated Beamish frame, which was apparently a big improvement on the Suzuki RL 250, but it was still a poor trials bike. OK as a green laner though. Reliable, and robust, with electronic ignition too. I'd go with the Suzuki. The Beamish owners club is also a good place for Suzuki RL owners too. http://beamishownersclub.com/

1976 Honda TL 125 - 150cc conversion by SM. 1. What engine oil to use? Wet clutch. 2. Various small retaining bolts inside of engine. What torque/s ? Thanks in anticipation.

In the UK we use plastic number plate screws. You will need 3. Here is a link to some on E.Bay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5x-Black-Plastic-Number-Plate-Screws-Black-Bolt-Fixings-Brand-New/293550237171?hash=item4458f525f3:g:ZC0AAOSwW35ekgHt

Hi. Sorry, I have only just noticed your post. Now called Fecked https://www.feked.com/

Sammy Miller sells some.

First check that it is not the fork seals that are weeping. Then you may need to re-soften your copper washer for it to seal properly. Remove the drain screw from the bike. Hang the copper washer on a piece of wire. Use a blowlamp to heat it up to cherry red. Allow it to cool down naturally. Ensure that the underside of the screw and the mating surface are clean and not scratched. Refit bolt and washer. Refill fork oil.

Just the Shercos that have the rear fuel tank. The others before and since are fine.

It's not the forks that get smashed in. The fork yokes (the things that hold the forks to the frame) actually bump against the frame when they are on full lock (turned left or right) as far as you can. The plastic bump stop actually moves out of the way when the knife-edge like fork yokes bump against it and allows them to "chop/cut through the FRAME down tubes. I made some frame protectors out of electric conduit tubing, but after a while it would cut through them. At a trial a couple of years ago I recognised a 2013 rear tanker (yellow frame, with a non-removable silencer tip) that had a blue frame. Chatting to the owner revealed that the yokes had broken the frame and Sherco had GIVEN them a new frame (2015), but they had to fit it themselves. The same issue remained.

The 2013 Sherco is an excellent bike. More nimble and narrower than it's contemporaries. but like all the other makes it does have it's issues. 1. The fork yokes can/will hit against the frame downtubes. Inspect this area very carefully to check that this has not collapsed the tube/s and seriously compromised that area. If they have then walk away. 2. Replace all the plastic fuel pipe. because it WILL harden and perish after a year or so. The fuel pump can then suck in air and cause you all sorts of weird and wonderful issues. Replace it all - about two thirds of a metre will be needed.

I had a 2014 125. After about 2 years of riding every weekend in competitions and the occasional practice for an hour or so, the top end was a bit rattly, although it still went well. The bore looked fine and the piston skirt had a bit of rubbing/scuffing. I was advised to change the piston, piston rings. wrist pin and little end bearing. After dismantling it I discovered that the little end bearing was obviously very loose. The wrist pin had wear that you couldn't see but you could feel. Apparently the wrist pin hole through the piston becomes slightly elongated after hundreds of hours of use. This wear leaves a slight gap, which produces more rattle as the bits wear and the gaps grow. When I assembled the new bits and compared them to the old, the wear was very apparent. The new piston and associated bits made the motor much less rattly. I bought the bits online from Splatshop. PS: I used the same sized piston and the bore was unmarked, with no ridges.

In the process of rebuilding a Sammy Miller Honda Highboy 150cc twinshock. I need to make a plate to lower the footpegs, 2" down and perhaps 1" back. It will either be welded or bolted to the existing plate. It will be 1/4" or 5mm steel.. Should I use mild steel, bdms, stainless (chromed frame) or something else? Anyone know what the original steel plate is? Thanks in anticipation.

We are supposed to be staying in/at home, due to the corona virus. The ACU is advising everyone not to ride at all during this nightmare.

I wonder if you are referring to Helicopter tape - the tape that is made to protect the leading edge of helicopter rotor blades? Don't know where to buy it now.

The poofs down at Taunton cancelled their trial for this week {15/3/20) because of VD, but Stroud are made of sterner stuff and theirs is going ahead today.

It is a screw, about 30mm long, with a knurled head. Tricky to get out but great fun to put back in!

Helps if you have small hands. Still tricky though and can be frustrating. My 2014 was much, much easier to clean.

I think you should name your bike an I Tal Jet - to acknowledge the Chinese motor.

Honda TL

What is reconed to be the best product to line a leaking steel fuel tank? I have soldered all the leaks and tested it under pressure. However, I suspect that it won't be too long before other leaks develop. Thanks in anticipation