dadof2

Initially try raising the needle clip a notch or two. Need to see what size your present jets are

Either get it brazed or get it TIG welded with dissimilar (Armoid?) metal filler. The cracks are probably due to residual stress from the original welds.

WD40, GT85 or similar water displacer if chain is wet, then once chain is dry / free of water use engine or gear oil. Drip type chain oiler at a drip every 8 to 15 seconds is only way to keep chain lubed properly. Main thing is never leave chain wet so it rusts.

May be an alpina from about 1975

38 jet or much smaller should not block Sounds like you have dirt or water in your fuel, thorough clean out of tank, fuel lines and carb needed, perhaps the in tank filter is faulty.

Try running your bike in darkness and look for stray electrical sparks on any of the electric parts or wires, take flywheel cover off so you can see inside there as well.

Agree with #9, looks like washing machine bolt. Similar to handlebar vibration isolation on some mx / enduro bikes, also similar to fuel tank mount rubbers and bolt on some bikes. Does not look like Beta trials bits

You should be able to knock out the two inserts and and seals then read the number, I did this easy enough on an 07 Beta but can't remember the bearing number and it may be different anyway.

If the coil is on frame near left hand side of radiator check the supply to the coil has not necked off at the spade connector. The wire can break inside but the insulation remains intact so you can't see the break. On the HT coil I would guess the primary resistance will be about 40 ohms and the secondary resistance about 300. Try Bradford Ignitions for advice and CDI resistance figures. If it is the Ducati digital system a multimeter may not be much use.

I just thought I would post a bit more on this, even though it may not be completely relevant to the original post. http://am.delphi.com/pdf/techpapers/2002-01-0927.pdf See the above. Seal performance / retraction is significantly influenced by brake fluid lubricity, perhaps changing your fluid will alleviate the 4t brake problems. Had a bit of a job recently sorting a front AJP 4 piston caliper. Pistons were not retracting properly due to corrosion build up in seal grooves. Owner had sprayed in WD 40 and levered the very stiff pistons back in, with the pads in. Result was seal lips ripped off and pads bent.

I have no experience of allballs bearings, but there are some none OE bearings are not very good quality. Original Gasgas linkage bearings and shock spherical bearings are pretty good so long as they are greased regularly with correct grease and not abused with a pressure washer. Correctly looked after these bearings will last many many years. Try simply bearings for quality replacements Bronze or oilite bushes do work but are much higher friction than needle rollers and will spoil the suspension plushness. The shock needs a bearing that allowed movement in several directions, a bush could damage the shock and / or make its action harsh.

Handbook says 50:1 fuel:oil ratio On any secondhand bike I would strip and grease every bearing. Even wheel bearings can be cleaned out and greased by prising the seal out with a watchmakers screwdriver. Clean the bearing (still in wheel) with your fuel, let it dry, put new grease in then press the seal back in. Change all the hydraulic fluids and preferably strip, clean and flush out all the hydraulic parts. Quite a few Sherco hydraulics have been found to contain metal debris or have sharp edges on the holes in the cylinders which chew up seals. Where any hole enters the bores polish any sharp edges off very carefully with fine or medium steel wool. Other than above its typical servicing.

Could there be some debris in the system acting like a non return valve, I knew of an internally collapsed hose on a car that did his. I much prefer a vacuum bleeder on the calliper bleed nipple. I have seen forced reverse bleeding cause problems when dirt / debris (I know there should not be any but often is) are forced back up into the hoses and master cylinder.

Beta gets my vote, easy to ride and well sorted, just buy plenty of Loctite and don't over tighten the fasteners into the alloy. Only thing I don't like on the newer models is the external stator arrangement, I would make sure its well guarded.

It does seem strange because as far as I know AJP and Braktec are the same, but some seem to think their 2014 and possibly 2013 callipers are not the same as earlier versions although I can't confirm that. PS what not to do with a sticking brake - Don't spray it with WD40 and force the pistons back. The WD40 will soften and swell the seal rubber then forcing the pistons back will rip the sealing edges off the seals.

Just out of curiosity, What would trials riders be willing or expect to pay for a very light, fully enclosed 4 wheel trailer capable of carrying 2 to 3 bikes?

I quite fancied the air museum at Pensacola until I realise how far it was from Orlando, pity warbirds in Kissimmee has closed. I Uk I recommend Sammy Miller, Beamish, Science Museum (near v & A), Imperial war museum and National motor museum (Beaulieu, not far from Sammy Miller), National railway museum at York.

http://exol-lubricants.com/data_docs/TDS%20M124%20Optima%20Racing%20Two%20Stroke%20-%20Iss%205.pdf Have a look at the above, this is why my engines don't smoke and don't get exhaust clogging. The oil is ashless and meets the D (low emissions) specifications. A flash point of 140 degrees means the oil does burn in the combustion chamber but not on the cylinder walls.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-TYZ-250-Trials-Breaking-for-spares-/111369579101?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item19ee24ea5d I think TYZ uses same spindle as TY, spacers and calliper bracket should be easy enough to make.

I would email your photo to the supplier and ask them if they think the stator plate they have supplied is faulty before cutting metal from your engine case. Get their permission to cut away their part instead. If there is no sign of a timing trigger the system almost certainly uses the change of polarity at maximum voltage to signal the CDI. This type of system gives similar / same timing to points.

Brilliant race from Catalunya on Sunday, there's life in the old dog (Doc) yet.

The piston seals and other brake components are designed to retract the piston a set distance when the pressure is released. AJP and Nissin calipers tend to have very little piston retraction and the pad stays close to the disc clearing water and mud continuously. Other brakes have more retraction and are more prone to not scraping the water and dirt from the disc, and having the pads pushed back by water or debris on the disc. It may be that Braktec are designed to have quite a lot of retraction.

Smoking from exhaust is more to do with type of oil (quality), carburation and type of use bike is subjected to. I use what many consider to be a very rich oil ratio (30cc oil per 1000cc petrol) but I use a decent fully synthetic and get hardly any smoke. My strimmer which uses the same fuel / oil produces no visible smoke even when running flat out for long periods.

The kits used to use Brembo calipers and hydraulics, can't remember who did them but they were prohibitively expensive. Some of the kits looked a bit bulky, probably best to look for someone breaking a "pinky" which was the later air cooled Yam with the disc brake and fit the whole front end.

I have been told that it should be difficult to find neutral by going up from first, this is not a clutch fault it is the design to try to ensure positive rapid changes from first to second. Neutral should be selected by going down from second.