dadof2

Or http://beta-uk.com/

And virtually on the Scott course

Split the crank cases and thoroughly clean and examine everything. Wherever it came from bits have obviously ended up in the gearbox. You could be looking at quite a bill already, if you don't clean it out and repair properly you will be looking at a very very big bill.

I know of several people myself (size 11 / 48 boots) included who tend to rub the swinging arm with their heels. I have never had a too serious problem with boot wear but put a smear of car body filler on the swinging arm to stop that wearing. Check you footrests are not drooping or bent back. It may be possible to use the bolts (or longer ones) that hold the footrest hanger to the frame to attach a thin aluminium plate to keep your heel out.

100:1 which you will have to stick with unless you can adjust the fuel injection. http://www.ossauk.co.uk/?Technical%26nbsp%3B%26amp%3B_Parts

Full strip and clean needed, probably corrosion in slave cylinder seal grooves and on slave pistons. Agree with #3. MC corrosion can also be cause but less likely from symptoms you describe.

One one occasion when a GG owner had the same problem as you it turned out to be the bleed nipple not seating properly, it was drawing in a hint of air each time the pedal was released. Sometimes I have known a system fail to bleed, giving same symptoms as yours when slave cylinder pistons were just flexing back and forth on their seals. Wedging the pistons fully back during reverse bleeding sorted this. What do you feel if you put your finger over MC outlet port and work pedal? Sometimes I have know people reverse bleed with 20ml syringes with no result, give it a fast flush with a 100ml syringe and its cured.

Agree with lineaway, check the fill port(s) (about 0.5mm diameter) between the reservoir and the master cylinder a fully clear. Also check the master cylinder piston is returning fully to uncover the ports. I have know the piston not be able to return fully because of pedal adjustment or corrosion. You say the plunger seems tight, it should move fairly easily, with just light finger pressure once lubricated with brake fluid or red brake grease. Remove the seal from the piston and polish both the piston and bore with 1200 grade wet and dry until the piston (without seal moves effortlessly. Then pressure back bleed with the bike stood on its back wheel / front wheel raised onto a table.

For extended higher speed running a 5 plug can be a bit hot and could lead to a holed piston, 7 or 8 may be advisable. Check the plug base and electrodes colour it should be pale / milk chocolate brown, not white or just off white which indicates too weak / too hot. Richen mixture if necessary, raise needle a notch (move the clip down) and go up maybe 5 or so on main jet. 50:1 mix is OK (I use 32:1). I had not heard Gasgas comments about Silkoline but I agree with them and would not use it. Oil build up in exhaust and subsequent burning out during higher speed running is normal. Use a decent 2T oil and you will not get build up. Shell scooter oil and Exol fully synthetic racing 2T are virtually deposit free.

Honda Pan European, but I am not sure you would want those massive chrome things on a trials bike

Its 15 mm and you need a deep socket. Turn down (Lathe) the end as little as possible so it only just fits into the flywheel. If you turn it down too much the socket wall is too weak and it will split.

The rolling period for exemption used to be 25 years, Labour abolished it completely and now it has been reintroduced at 40 years. Bearing in mind their light weight, low mileage etc VED for motorcycles is excessively high. Scrapping the MOT may not be as convenient as first thought, there is talk of rising insurance premiums for vehicles that do not have an MOT and I have heard that non MOT classic vehicles are being barred from track days (or being put in a much more expensive category) and being barred from classic car gatherings because the insurance premiums are too expensive for the organisers otherwise. I run several classic cars (not pre 1960) and what is really needed is a reduction in fee, a greater leeway period around the retest date and the banning and public naming of garages who do not carry out MOTs properly. A main dealer about 25 miles from me was subject to a random VOSA check last year and failed to detect any of the 5 deliberate faults on the VOSA test car. They got off with a warning but were allowed their MOT test status - other MOT testers in the area were upset to say the least. There also needs to be a crackdown on garages that fail cars to generate work Sadly UK governments have been anti car ever since they made a man with a red flag walk in front. Motorists are treated as a convenient cash cow.

Cylinder base gasket blow out is not that uncommon, either where you describe (probably due to a step or burrs between the case half's) or round the transfer ports where the can be very little metal thickness. Another cause is over tightening the cylinder base studs causing distortion. I always put a trace of hylomar on a least one side of a base gasket to prevent blowout. One of the first things an engine tuner / blueprinter should do is machine the crankcase to barrel face dead flat and parallel to the crank axis.

#23 Most people don't use WD40 as a chain lubricant, I certainly don't. I use it because it very rapidly penetrates and displaces water, preventing corrosion which would otherwise greatly shorten chain life. The other thing that wrecks chains is grease or sticky lube once mixed with abrasive dirt such as sand as it acts like grinding paste.

Clearly a business opportunity for someone - R40 E cigarettes

Your friends advice is not accurate. The stator output is needed at starting and all times. Resistance readings are not the most accurate or suitable way to check electrical components, they can find some faults so long as you are aware of their limitations. The only way is to spin the motor with a power drill and check the outputs with an oscilloscope. Any half decent auto electrician should now have an oscilloscope. Just for your general info most modern trials bike stators contain 3 main items: 1) Several coils with thick wire to generate power for your fan, horn and lights. Individually they give AC outputs 2) A single coil with very fine windings, this is the source could for your ignition power / spark. AC output 3) A sensor to detect the position of the engine to time the firing of these spark. These are usually a small black thing and are not always on the stator, may be just outside the flywheel. There are two common types of these sensor, one gives an AC output (sinusoidal waveform) and does not contain transistors, the other (as in your Sherco I think) contains "transistors" and gives a square wave output.

Get yourself a dental examination mirror / kit (about £5 on Ebay) to help you check and clean the seal groove thoroughly. Check your pads are worrn evenly, pad face an back parallel and that your piston(s) have no dint or burrs where the.

A difficult decision, and I have not voted. As an observer I, at times get tired of repeatedly climbing down into a section to replace flags that have been dislodged by a rider. If riders push their luck by riding too close to markers, then they will just have to accept a decision they don't agree with when they get a five. From your description it sounds as if the problem led from the rider was pushing the tape with his rear wheel, it then snagged on the tread blocks and pulled forwards over the top of the wheel. In initially pushing the tape back or sideways with his wheel the rider was trying to gain the advantage of a better run at the log and therefore from a purely sporting viewpoint probably deserved a five. I can't remember the exact wording I have seen either in ACU regs or possibly an observer guide at a trial, but it said that displacing a marker is a 5, unfortunately it does not say if the displacement has to be temporary or permanent. I feel you called a 5 prematurely, I would have waited until the rider had completed before deciding. Many times I have been spared a difficult decision when the rider puts it beyond doubt by fiving further along the section. If the rider had managed to unsnag the tape with his foot and without it breaking and it naturally sprung back to its original position I probably would not have given a five.

Sorry, can't help with the forks. The chrome tends to come off them and therefore good ones are in short supply. Front wheels are fairly common and cheap on Ebay. The seat on your bike is not TY80 either, its off a Ty250 monoshock.

Well, the Doc is back

O rings may have perished but its more likely the metal that seats on them is rough (a manufacturing defect). Strip it down and polish the faces with very fine wet and dry then mirror polish with solvol autosol. PS Beta taps still have the same fault on the latest models. Sometimes they leak internally flooding the bike whilst it is parked during the week, leaving the carb full of over oily petrol.

Morris K2 EP is good grease. Swinging arm bearings, shock linkage bearings, steering head bearings need greasing. It is also worth greasing the wheel bearings but you need to pry the sear out with a very small (watchmakers) screwdriver or similar.

A 300 Sherco will comfortably exceed 0.2 kW per kg. My guess is that it will not be far off 0.3 kW per Kg which is pretty well in line with your figures. As far as I know all importers / manufacturers have to stae which group their vehicle falls into so Sherco (MRS) should be able to answer this. This law and the 125cc to 19 year old limit is due to EU legislation. The present conservative government saw no point in these new laws but failed to block them in the UK because the previous Labour Government / Tony Blair had already signed up to the project. Write to you MP (as I have done) and vote UKIP next time.

As has Croft circuit up here in Northern England. Circuit was there and in use long before the houses of the complainers.

I only know two riders well who have or have had Jotagas's and both have had this problem. One is a novice and the other occasionally wins club trials. It could be down to riding style. I used to wear the inside of my boot heel on my JTR Gasser. It was the bolt and bracket for the side-stand that was the problem. Maybe depends if you ride on your insteps as I do, or on the balls of your feet.