dadof2

Very few retail oil suppliers refine their own oil, most buy in base stocks and additives from various suppliers and then blend them to their own specification. Smith and Allan probably get most of theirs from Shell.

Since it has a knock that bothers you then you need at least the head and barrel off anyway. Far better to properly inspect and measure than waste time guessing from sounds. Sounds top end to me, either piston slap or little end.

http://www.smithandallan.com/products/transport-motorcycle/3477-smith-and-allan-fully-synthetic-2-stroke-oil/ Since Smith and Allen contributed towards the Scott programme I think it is appropriate to give them a mention on here. I first came across their products in the 1980s when they were used at the engineering company I worked for. I have now used them personally for many years and always found them to be good products and well priced. Their synthetic 2T as in the link above burns very very clean and after many years use engines run on it are virtually as new. I have no connection with Smith and Allen other than as a satisfied customer.

Can you detail exact problems and sequence of events? Call trading standards at your local council

Take some spare fuel with you and ride as you normally do until you run out, then you know how long you can run on a full tank and reserve on that kind of riding. Typically a tank will give about 2 continuous typical trials practice with a further 20 minutes on reserve but as you already know it can vary widely. Trickling about on a few rocks and you can run near all afternoon, start doing long hills or boggy fell and you might not get near 2 hours.

file:///C:/Users/User/Downloads/2009_txtpro_manual_en.pdf http://www.gasgasmotos.es/en/manuals/4.html http://www.gasgasuk.com/support/

Bashplate - as already posted. A large gentle curve is better. Check with your duraluminium supplier but it is likely you will have to complete the bending within a few days of receiving the material. I have fabricated several magneto cases but never one incorporating a clutch mechanism. To make the case you need some aluminium rod 10 or 12 mm diameter and possibly some larger if sleeve location dowels are needed. Cut the rod to length, drill and turn (lathe) it to size and screw it onto the crankcase using the fixing screw holes. Curve strips of 3mm thick plate to match the crankcase gasket face profile between the screwed on rod. Tack plate to rod with TIG weld. The face of the cover is also made from 3 mm aluminium plate (jigsaw to size) and press (hydraulic garage press) to make it slightly dished like a saucer. Tack weld to the bits already fabricated. If you want to make a clutch mechanism you will need machining facilities or consider welding a piece of thick aluminium to the magneto cover then fitting a screw on hydraulic slave cylinder assembly and converting clutch to hydraulic operation. Once all the bits are tack welded, fully weld them, remove them from the crankcase, touch in any missing weld, then flatten the gasket area with wet and dry paper on a sheet of glass. Make sure the holes for the crankcase screws have a bit of clearance as the fabrication will distort as it is welded. You can also make and weld on a wedge shaped deflector to protect the gear leaver. The first one of these cases I saw and copied was on Dave Thorpe's 500cc Honda world championship motocrosser.

From the photo it looks as if your float height may be wrong (too rich) The line on the float should be parallel to the surface where the float bowl connects. Connect the carb (float bowl off) to your fuel tank. With the carb right way up and base of carb horizontal hold the floats up gently (do not bend metal on which they are mounted). Turn fuel on and gradually lower the floats. Fuel should start to drip out when line on float is parallel to carb base. Adjust tang on float frame until this is correct. If you have bike assembles and running turn fuel off and if it runs better / smoke reduces as the fuel level in float bowl drops you know carb is giving too rich a mixture. Is there a little spring loaded pin in the float valve, if so make sure it moves freely and smoothly, no roughness

"It took a bit of getting going, and with the amount of mud that was caked around the carb I knew it was too much of a risk and was going to take too much time to strip it down." "From then on in it was just a case of trying to keep it running and to try to get through the remaining sections, but I knew I was in trouble when I had to push out of three of the last six sections, and it is those nine marks that have cost me." The above is what Dougie said after the Scott so Dabster, if I am wrong at least I am in good company. I observed in the 1998 Scott (a very wet one) and I helped quite a number of riders get their flooded bike going again. An easily accessible drain screw would have been a huge help. You do not have to strip the carb to get water out of the fine jets. Just remove the slow running screw, stick an overflow pipe in the hole and blow through it, of course those with practical trials knowledge will already know that. What tends to happen when you drown your bike is that not only does the carb get water in but the airbox and filter (and even the tank) as well and without a big strip down and equipment and time it is nearly impossible to dry them properly and water works its way into the carb so you have to strip it again, and again and again. With an accessible drain screw as soon as you feel water affecting performance, you just slacken it slightly to let a little dribble out, blip the throttle to encourage any water droplet to vibrate out, nip up the screw and you are on your way again in under a minute. As Guys said adding a screw is not going to break the bank, Give me a drain screw over a set of pointlessly adjustable forks any day. Funny how all my low cost industrial engines on Wacker, compressor, pressure washer etc all have effective float bowl drain screws but my multi thousand £ trials bikes do not.

I can't remember the exact date (2001?) but since then it has been illegal to make your own plate. I, like many others have done so, generally without problems. I was stopped on one occasion when towing my trailer, not because of the numberplate but because they were checking all trailers and vans for stolen motorcycles. My numberplate was home painted, a good correctly sized job though. He said its illegal, I said what,s wrong with it. He said its home made so I pointed out the trailer pre dated the law and he said "well I don't know then" and did not say anything more about it. He was a bit pedantic as he even checked I had a breakaway cable fitted. I have been told that since the abolition of tax discs the police are likely to treat number plate breaches more seriously, as the numberplate is now the sole (easily observable) method of identifying the vehicle and they must be ANPR camera compliant.

Do searches for Akront wheel rims Morad Wheel rims Hagon wheel services Central Wheel services I think GG may be a Morad rim about £100 to £115

No, I watched it live Some of the riders had cameras on their helmets, should make interesting viewing if any of them will post.

Nitromors paint remover then pressure wash? if that does not work try sand or vapour blast with fine media. I guess his trousers were nylon / polyester both of which are pretty chemical resistant.

http://www.gasgasmotos.es/en/manuals/5.html file:///C:/Users/User/Downloads/2006_txtpro_manual_en%20(1).pdf See above for future reference, Page 10 or 11 for gearbox oil 10w40 SF or SG. I think mineral or semi synthetic will meet SF and SG specs easily enough, don't buy oil without these API classifications as it is possibly crap.

Ray Stringer (very experienced 4 stroke tuner) did some research on running in procedure. For maximum subsequent power output a hard running in, basically a good thrashing is the way to do it, gives a loose free revving engine. I have always believed in the gentler progressive approach. I don't know if it is still the case but Honda (and other) used to strongly advise running in on mineral oil, not synthetic. Synthetics can have such high film strength they prevent proper bedding in of components.

Gasgas manuals recommend, 10w30, 10w40 or SAE75W. 75W90 is too viscous (thick) Some people use ATF but really it is too low viscosity (thin) There are also different types / grades of ATF so when someone advises ATF how do you know which one?

I wondered if the Vertigo will be FI when I wrote the post. That big screw at the bottom, often 14mm AF is not suitable for draining the carb in many situations. The inclination of the carb stops it draining properly. The nut is often cupped inside so holds the water, you can't always get it out because it is close on the gearbox, and if you do get it out the float bowl can fall off, then you get crap in everything. Try it on the Scott when the bike is hot, covered in baked on crap and your hands are tired, it does not work very well. DL was probably aware of this and that's probably why he did not do it. What you want is a carb bowl like the ones on the RD Yams, which have a small sump which is drained in seconds with an easily accessible horizontal screw that does not even have to be removed, just undone a couple of turns.

I wonder if Dougies experience on the Scott means the Vertigo will be fitted with a carburettor drain screw, a feature sadly lacking on most f not all trials bikes for the last 30 years.

JR, I take it you are an unsupported rider, you buy and maintain your own bike etc. Just wonder how many others in your situation have taken on and beaten the factory riders to be best on time? You looked like you had given it you all, but I bet it was worth it when you picked up that trophy.

Coolant - ethylene glycol (blue) mixed 1:1 with water Gearbox oil, 10W40 or light 75w gear oil, about 750 cc to bring it to 1/2 way up sight glass Same oil will do for air filter No oil filter Throttle cable needs fixing properly or air will leak into top of carb.

Could do with more photos. Does the vertical link connect to the top of the shock via rocker arm? If so it looks very much like the full floater system Suzuki used to use on their MX bikes (until thy got sued for patent breaches) Kawasaki MX bikes also had mono shock systems with links to upper rockers.

Don't know about decals but you could repaint it in the UK for about 20 to 30 GBP. You would need 3 or 4 aerosol cans at about 6.5 GBP each. Plastics activator, primer, top coat and maybe clear gloss.

With a bigger hammer there is a chance you will swell the shaft making it even harder or impossible to remove. It sounds as if its "rusted" in where it passes through the back of the engine, it is also likely rusted to the inner parts of the bearings. Put plenty of penetrating oil on everywhere where there is a chance of it getting in and ride the bike about a bit, then try knocking it out again, with the nut on as suggested previously. Repeat this several times over a few days. Often the heat and vibration of engine plus penetrating oil will free it. If it still does not move take the bike to a garage with a hydraulic press. It is very important that the area immediately around the bolt head is properly supported and a good pusher is applied dead square on the other end. You will probably need at least 2 people to hold the bike whilst a third operates the press. I once rigged up a pusher using a lorry axle U bolt to get one of these out.

http://www.gasgasmotos.es/en/manuals/2.html file:///C:/Users/User/Downloads/manual_txt_racing_2012_en.pdf

Was it Jonny Walker who boiled his bike in rotten wood, then had to wait a while to let it cool and then I think someone filled it with lemonade? Anyone know who the spectator was who overdid the wheelie and somersaulted his bike up the hill on the road out of bypass? There are two other contestants for the funniest sight of the day prize, the elderly gent in the blue fiesta who tried to go against the one way system and then rammed his front spoiler into the ditch, and the Beta rider in "shorts" who came home on only 1/2 a bike (airbox, rear mudguard, silencer etc all missing)