dadof2

richt - if you buy some plumbers hemp you will be able to make up some "dog turds" with your spare plumbers mait, for fixing puctures

Beta 250 piston is over £145. Langcourt may be £120 but: The piston has to be posted to them, the barrel has to be posted to them (+insurance?). Then return postage and gaskets. By the time everything is added up it is probably over £300 Perhaps someone knows where you can get vertex pistons at a better price ? Apico maybe?

You are unlikely to find an answer because there probably is not one. Charlotte & John (opera) over 51 million hits, but how many actually go to or partake in opera. Fishing is most popular participation sport in UK, I have not checked but I bet it does not get many hits on youtube.

You need to measure everything accurately and according to book. The noise you describe sounds like main bearings.

The rear suspension feels soft but works fine, don't forget to grease the spherical shock end bearings and the swinging arm bearings, replacements are not cheap Check air filter after every ride Gearbox oil will do several trials unless you cool the bike in deep water and suck water in. Opinions differ widely as to oil mix ratio. For normal trial use stick to handbook ratios but if you ride it harder put more oil in. Standard beta jetting is Ok for as rich as 24:1. Bear in mind a piston and bore replate is getting on for £300 and it makes sense to look after the air filter and don't skimp on 2t oil. Check your water pump housing and primary drive case for corrosion, use blue (ethylene glycol) antifreeze at 50% with distilled water and change it every six months to minimise corrosion. "70/1 oil mixture is fine with a good synthetic oil any more just causes more smoke, it won't wear out more quickly" This statement from the previous post is not accurate. I run at 32:1 with good quality fully synthetic oil and get no smoke, no carbon build up and no exhaust clogging. More oil gives less wear, it is just that quite a few riders find that 70:1 give acceptable wear rates with their riding style.

Try this bloke, a friend bought one off him about 3 years ago and it seems well made and works fine. http://www.billetparts.co.uk/catalog/fantic-parts-c-0_41.html

It is several years since I rode a 200 but I have ridden a 300 (2012 model) quite a bit this year. The 200 feels lighter and smaller even though it is not really. It has remarkable power for a 200 but does not break grip as easily especially if you are a bit ham fisted with the throttle. The 200 is easier to kick start. I would think that for beginners and the lower 2/3 of club riders the 200 is the better bike a.nd you will loose less marks on it

http://www.geocel.co.uk/catalogue/single-brand/trade-mate-range/trade-mate-lead-and-gutter-seal Try sealing your rim band with this or, remove the rim band, fit a bolt in valve then smear a 2 mm layer of gutter seal in the wheel well and over the spoke nipples. When dry over with a couple of layers of PVC tape to protect the sealant when fitting the tyre Sikflex car windscreen sealant is also OK but DO NOT use acetoxy sealants as the will cause serious corrosion

The green crap is the additives that replaced lead, benzine etc in petrol It can be very very difficult to shift fully from all the jets and small passages in the carb. You probably have not got it all out. Have you stripped the cold start enrichment mechanism, jet and passage? It once took me several days with various solvents, petrol system cleaner, fine copper wire and compressed air to clean some road bike carbs that had this stuff in. Even ultrasonic cleaning does not always clean the small passages. Once you get it going again put some fuel injection system cleaner in to remove the final residues or your bike may run weak and pink or overheat. The best thing to do when parking a bike up for more than a couple of months is to drain the carbs and fill them with thin oil

Far more people have easy access to cycles than to trials motorcycles. The are pictures and details of DM in many high street cycle stores and windows, there are virtually no trials dealers where shoppers or large numbers of people will see them. Most trials dealers will not have anything on display about DL or TB.

75 wt gear oil will drag until the engine is fully warm and maybe even then. Different makes of oil have different drag characteristics. file:///C:/Users/User/Downloads/txt_pro_2014_en.pdf See link. Gasgas recommend 75wt gear oil. Do not use ATF A good quality 10w 40 approved for wet clutches such as yamalube or mobil motorcycle oil work well.

http://www.geocel.co.uk/catalogue/single-brand/trade-mate-range/trade-mate-lead-and-gutter-seal You can seal the band in with the above sealant. DO NOT use an acetoxy type sealant it will cause severe corrosion Alternatively replace the band with a screw in valve and coat the wheel well and spoke nipples with a 2 mm layer of sealant, then a couple of layers of PVC tape. The PVC tape stops damage to the sealant when fitting tyre.

You should be able to get a carb off an old Honda XL 175 or 250 or Kawasaki 200 from a breakers for next to nothing. 24mm seems quite large, you might get plenty of power with something much smaller. I have a carb off a 125 honda, its only about 14mm yet the bike revved quite highly.

Typical "hight tensile" steel for threaded fasteners has a yield strength of 635 N/mm2. A 4 Stainless has a yield strength of 600N/mm2. Sheet and structural steel is anywhere between 250 and 430 N/mm2 and aluminium quite a bit weaker than that. Coefficient of thermal expansion. Aluminium expands a lot more than steel when it is heated. When your barrel heats up it has the same effect as applying excess torque to the fasteners, this distorts the barrel and fatigues the studs. This is one of the reasons the studs snap. A4 stainless has a coefficient of thermal expansion much closer to aluminium than high tensile steel and it a better material for the job. Manufacturers do not use it because of initial cost, but a metre of threaded rod is only a £few. The matching of components thermal coefficients of expansion is only really critical on high performance "on the limit" engines.

Almost any steel will be stronger than the aluminium, if you have a problem it will be the aluminium female threads that strip. A4 (316) stainless steel studding is probably as good as anything for this job.

These shallow keyless taper fitted gears do take some shifting, Husqvarna have the same problem. Making up a special puller as you have done is the solution, but rather than a screw thread a hydraulic piston assembly pumped by a grease gun can provide a lot more force and does not fly across the workshop when the gear pops off the shaft. Once had to make one of these for a seized machine tool and it took near 100 tons to shift the jammed part.

For his next top gear special Clarkson will be playing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6dNSKV8158o at the Munich beer festival or at the Texas cattlemans club annual dinner.

I would get a programme posted to you in advance and check with the organisers if and where any one way systems are going to be in place on the narrow roads. They run the course different way round on different years and until the programme is available you can't easily plan your spectating. Consider orgate splash, followed by one (possibly 2 depending on course layout) from Whaw Bridge / surrender / bypass/ roys rocks / grand canyon and then clapgate at near the finish. Start / finish is at 54 25 11.4 N 1 48 26.4 W http://www.richmondmotorclub.com/category/scott-trial/scott-trial-news/

Its longer than I care to remember since I worked on this type of engine but in general the separate flow to each rocker should have a restriction in it so it can't take all the oil coming up the single feed. This forces equal amounts of oil to both rockers (or camshafts) irrespective of oil viscosity or gravity. I know of some car engines where people have failed to replace these restrictors resulting in oil starvation to parts of the valvetrain. Perhaps something similar is your bikes problem

Try a TYZ 250 slurping hoover for irritating intake noise, On both the yam and the ossa I suspect the noise is made by waves in the inlet air causing the airbox to resonate and there is probably not an easy cure for this without airbox design incorporating stiffening ribs or baffles.

The rules seem absurd and inconsistent see page 277 of http://www.acu.org.uk/Uploaded/1/Documents/2014%20Handbook/2014Road%20Racing.pdf and see what powerful, heavy road racing bikes youngsters can ride. The new 125cc under 19 limit in the UK (the result of unaccountable Eurocrats) is going to damage trials. I know of several big strong lads who have moved up to 250s or 300s, they now can't ride in some nationals, the scott or scottish. Additionally its means getting the car and trailer out to get to practice areas instead of just riding there

What are you measuring the voltage with? A digital or analogue multimeter will not give a correct reading on ac. In one of my previous posts I suggested the voltage regulator is probably faulty. the fault could be internal or it may not be earthed properly. A faulty regulator could result in your rectifier blowing.

If bike had not been used for a while before you bought it, mains or big end could have rusted, they then seize after a few hours use. What 2t mix and oil were you using@ I would take primary chain case off first to try to find out if its gearbox or engine that has seized, then go on from there.

I have come across this problem on Betas before and it has usually been caused by build up of old loctite and oil on the threads and bunging up the hole. The hole in the shaft needs cleaning out with a bottoming (3rd cut tap) and rinsing out with brake or contact cleaner the blowing out with compressed air. Clean the threads on the bolt with brake cleaner and a wire brush. Refit bolt with new loctite and you should have no more problems. Loctite 271 or Tru loc 360 may be better than 240. I use Truloc 360.

Does your bike not have a 2 year warranty - get the dealer to sort it Its 99% certain you will be able to replace the seal without pulling the gearbox.