dadof2

Only after ramming a rock step on a Bultaco which kinked the front spindle. Had to drop the forks out of the yokes then screw the leg off the spindle then cut the spindle off with angle grinder.

Put it in a pan of water with a resistance meter (or bulb and battery) connected across the terminals. Heat the pan with thermometer in it ans see at what temperature the thermostat conducts electricity at. I don't know what it should be for a sherco 200, it may be stamped on the thermostat but it should be between 65 and 88 degrees celsius.

You will need a flywheel holding tool, a flywheel puller and a clutch holding tool, usually about £50 for the lot on Ebay or dealer like Splatshop. Other than that its just standard sockets, spanners and allen keys. Fairly easy to split, gears stay in sprocket side, take plenty of digital photos.

Have you checked the squish clearance when refitting cylinder head? Crank rebuild - did this include new connecting rod? Leak test, You need to blank off inlet with blanking plate / bung. Leave the reeds in but prop them open. Fit a blanking plate to exhaust outlet on barrel with tyre valve in it and pressurise engine to between 5 and 10 PSI and see if it drops over a few minutes period.

Certainly I will not be tempting fate by trying standing up riding in front of a policeman. However remember in court it is up to the prosecution to prove their case "beyond reasonable doubt" If you have books, handbooks or videos showing that standing up is a normal way to ride these motorcycles it introduces reasonable doubt. Proving dangerous driving even when the driving has been been pretty abysmal and an accident has resulted is very difficult as any police officer will confirm, that is why the CPS usually try careless driving instead. Getting a bit off topic here but the law is very peculiar. I can remember a case where a driver ran over and killed an elderly person on a signal controlled crossing when the light was on red and with a dozen or more witnesses. You would have thought guilty a dead cert, but no, the case was abandoned. The driver said he could not see the traffic light because of the sun in his eyes (which it was) and the old person moved onto the crossing unexpectedly. The drivers solicitor argued that even the most diligent drivers did not stop completely when the sun caused bad visibility, they just slow down a bit as this driver had done.

http://beta-uk.com/images/pdf/2013/EVO2T_125-300_2013.pdf Have a look at page 10 (clutch assembly) of the above link, and familiarise yourself with how it works. I have come across poorly operating clutches on all sorts of bikes, both cable and hydraulically operated and unfortunately the list of minor difficult to identify faults is large. Take your primary case off with the engine cold and measure the clutch lift for a full pull of the lever using a dial test indicator. Note if the clutch pressure plate lifts equally all the way round or if it tilts. Repeat the above with the engine fully hot and compare with cold results. Compare with a known good clutch Faults I have come across include: Burrs on the clutch plate tangs Warped clutch plates Machine marks, wear grooves or burrs on the clutch basket slots Push rod bent, end chipped or roughness on surface Damaged ball Uneven spring length or bent spring Hydraulic cylinder not operating properly or dirt in the cylinder Dirty of contaminated fluid, air in fluid, wrong fluid.

BULTACO 350 GENUINE BARN FIND/ RESTORATION PROJECT. ( 221515310069 ) Is buyer a forum member by any chance? Just curious to know what bike is like. Bit too far for me to travel and I was no going to bid that amount unseen for a non runner.

The PSI, proof strength index is of little use to a mechanic, especially when a high tensile steel (high PSI) male fastener is mated with an aluminium female thread. PSI can be used by designers who also have access to strain information to determine clamping force and specify a number of degrees fastener rotation as in SPS cylinder head fastening.

Nigel Birkett (Ossa Moto UK) may be able to help. I am pretty certain he was riding Ossas in 1972 and may well have been familiar with Mick.s bikes.

I would combine #4 and #7, Hang the bike up or put the front wheel on a bench then back flush with a syringe.

Motorcycles registered from 1 September 2001 must only display a number plate at the rear of the vehicle. Motorcycles registered before 1 September 2001 can display a number plate at the front, but do not have to. The number plate must be a “two-line” number plate. Motorcycle number plates should have a: Character Height – 64 Millimeters Character Width – 44 Millimeters (except the figure 1 or letter I) Character Stroke – 10 Millimeters Space between characters – 10 millimeters Space between groups – 30 millimeters Top, bottom and side margins – 11 millimeters (minimum) Vertical space between groups – 13 millimeters This Information has been taken directly from: www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring Pre 2001 bikes only need to have a number plate that the tester thinks is OK. If tyres have a direction of rotation arrow (some trials tyres now have these) the tyre must be fitted the correct way round. A red rear reflector must be fitted whether or not the bike has lights. I queried this with VOSA when my tester insisted on it and I thought he was wrong. The reason they gave is in case the bike is used in conditions of reduced visibility. Stoplight only needed if you have lights fitted. Regarding standing up being dangerous, there is some precedent on this, although because the decision was at a magistrates court it does not set a precedent that is binding on other courts. In about 1978 a rider was charged with dangerous driving for riding on a grass bank behind the pavement in the standing position. The magistrates were shown the Sammy Miller trials book which stated that standing was the correct way to ride and some other information that suggested trials bike seats were pretty well just decorative. Upon seeing a picture of Sammy Miller riding over a car at the side of the public highway (a garage opening ceremony) the magistrate said "well he is certainly in control" and the rider was found not guilty. This was reported in the Observer and some other national papers.

I had 325 bultos from 1977 to 1981 and could not fault the front end on any of the 3, fine in sections and fine on time trial type going and large drop offs. I suspect there is something wrong with your forks.

Firstly I always laugh at the idiots who are daft enough to pay over the odds for designer label crap. Secondly Bernie Ecclestone looks like he is going to be guilty of bribery, then under German law he gets off by bribing the German government with an even larger sum. Shaun Morris is not the first motorcyclist to be jailed for dodgy dealing, I can remember a top superbike rider in the 1970s getting jailed for racing stolen bikes and the father of a person closely involved with a current top BSB team spent time in the nick for tax evasion. It was quite a paddock joke at the time that his son (a motocrosser) was sponsored by her majesty.

Consider rotating your fuel tap 180 degrees so the lever is on the inside, otherwise it can snag on the top of a boot or welly, damaging the tap and / or tank.

When I rebuild brakes I thoroughly coat the cylinders and seals with brake fluid before putting the seals back in. This is so the seals can move easily to seat properly in the grooves. I do not use red rubber grease for this because I found on AJP calipers in particular the grease prevents the seals seating fully and then they put excess drag on the pistons. I do coat the piston with red rubber grease so it slips in easily and this fills the gap between piston and bore preventing dirt getting at the seal.

Easiest way to stiffen the forks a little is put a little more oil in, ie reduce the air volume. I once went up a few Kgs per mm on rear spring stiffness on an MX bike because I was a bit on the heavy side and could not set the sag according to book. Bike was a pig to ride, far better when i went back to standard spring and had shock revalved by pro circuit.

Try a wanted ad on "Marketplace" on the UK Karting website

Olivers Mount track was far better before they put the kink in to slow speeds on start / finish "straight" (actually quite a curve). I think some of the best racing I saw there was between Mick grant and Jarno Saarinen.

I think the seat you have is for the later blue plastic tank models, one shock wrong way up and are those front mudguard stays original? Twistgrip is not original type. Can't see speedometer or its drive Still a very nice job though, I had many happy days and good results on a 325.

The photo is the Grimeca caliper of the Front of an 2012 Beta on which brake problems started occurring at just over 18 months old. Brake was grabby and disc was showing more wear than it should. Caliper was removed from bike and pistons were found to be "seized". They would not move with 10 Bar (150 PSI) air pressure and had to be pumped out with a grease gun. Pistons should move easily with less than 5 PSI. When the pistons were out a band of corrosion was present where the black coating had worn or corroded off. The piston in the photo has had the corrosion polished off with solvol autosol. The calipers were chemically cleaned (as shown on photo) Then the seal grooves scraped out, followed by polishing with fine wire wool, then solvol autosol. The design of the cylinders is very poor. The fluid enters the cylinders just over 1/2 way up (slots can be seen in photo) meaning air is trapped above the fluid and does not vent to the bleed nipple or back up the hose to the master cylinder. Also the fluid hole drilling that connects the caliper halves is at the bottom of a larger hole meaning once again air is trapped above the fluid. Hydraulics like central heating systems should be designed so that air collects at bleedable high points. Why Grimeca / Beta do not follow this basic good practice is beyond me. Also the thin metal cover that has to be fitted between the caliper halves, why not an easily removable (to insect pads / wash out dirt) external plastic cover as used by Honda and Suzuki many years ago. Come on Beta, you need to do better. Edit - for those not familiar with this caliper on a Beta, when it is mounted on the bike the part of he caliper at the right of the photo is at the top, so to get a correct view rotate the photo 90 degrees anti clockwise

My experience of electric motors is mainly on CNC machines and fork trucks but also on schools greenpower vehicles. Electric motors can deliver a huge amount of torque at low RPM. The exact characteristics of the torque curve and acceleration is controlled by the DC drive circuitry. I am guessing at this stage of development electric trials bikes have little engine braking but this could be incorporated by either a regenerative system (as on F1 cars) or a DC injection brake system. Even a small electric motor weighing only a few kgs can deliver 10 to 15 HP almost instantaneously from low revs for a few seconds to attack steps. Prolonged production of high power at lowish RPM will overheat the motor fairly quickly though. I would not think there should be any need for a clutch, and in practice the lack of a clutch keeps complexity and costs down and should be a key advantage of an electric bike.

http://www.venhill.co.uk/ Try the above I have just replaced hose on a beta with Venhill standard length hose and fittings - fraction of price of genuine.

For benefit of non UK readers BBC is British Broadcasting Corporation - UK state TV. Twice in the last few days they have shown "evidence" of Israeli missile strikes on or near united nations school compounds in Gaza. It is quite obvious that these strikes were not the result of missile strikes. The damage, blast marks and scorching were far more typical of a small calibre mortar round. It is an old saying that "the first casualty of war is the truth", it is a pity our national broadcaster seems to be making assertions as fact without proper knowledge or research.

Run and exercise vigorously to get fitter and take small quantities of aspirin at the event to improve circulation.

Tightening the pug is not the same as setting the gap. The plug only needs to be gently tightened, screw it in finger tight then just nip it up a bit with a spanner. If your spanner is 150mm long a reasonable tug with your little finger is enough torque. The gap is between the electrodes, one in the centre and the other the bent over one. The gap probably should be 0.5 to 0.6 mm on a 300 gasser. There are plenty of You tube videos on gapping spark plugs.