tlrmark

I use a Beta alloy one on my 200.

I like shercos but the 290 is a monster for a beginner in my opinion. A 200 of any brand is best, a 250 would also be good. Don't be in a rush to buy something just because its nearby. 250 Scorpa is a lovely bike, Japanese quality engine.

The 33 mm fork on the reflex does not use bushings. The 35 mm fork on the TLR competition model does use syntallic bushings. The parts diagram shown above is for the 33 mm reflex fork, without bushing. Contact any Honda dealer in a country in which the real TLR (not reflex) was sold, and they will have a parts book for your fork. The real TLR competition was not sold in North America, only the dual sport reflex. Not sure if New Zealand Honda imported the competition TLR back in the day or if individuals brought in bikes on their own from England, Japan etc.

Read post #4.

Replace the steel plates with dimpled ones to remedy the drag.

You only need to replace the steel clutch plates with the aftermarket dimpled metal plates to eliminate the 315 clutch drag. Obviously if the friction plates are worn out, replace them as well but they have no effect on the infamous 315 clutch drag.

You need dimpled steel plates, you can buy stock Honda 1989 cr250 steel plates or use aftermarket dimpled steel plates from BVM motorsports for less than half the cost. I recommend the bvm plates.

Means the same as crikey

Montesa always recommended 80.1 for all years of Montesa 315 1997-2004. Your previous owner has made a mess of your exhaust system internally by running way too much oil in a modern water cooled bike. You will need to clean the exhaust out by disassembly. Always ran 80.1 in my 315 with no problems (nine years )

I don't think his bike having no spark today, has anything to do with the tiny scratches on his cylinder.

This is true, Marc bought back his original company in 2009/2010. This coming year 2014 is the fifth year of production of the orange, sherco engine scorpas.

Trial Trial whats up with the Scorpa 125 long ride you bought last weekend? I see you have it up for sale two days after buying. Not enough power?

I owned a 1998 for 9 years, great bike. The 4 piston brake caliper doesn't make a lot of difference and is easy to add as mentioned. But I would definitely hold out for the later model with the showa fork as I feel it is much better than the paioli on the early model.

I would try a gas gas dealer for your parts.

JJ65 is that a ajp front brake master cylinder on the 2014? and is it the same part on the earlier bikes?

The lever shown by b40 does work really well. I have used them for years on many different bikes, can feel like it cuts the effort to pull in the clutch by half on some bikes. I have extended the arm on the engine on a few different bikes, but it never works as well, always go back to the easy pull levers.

I believe your fan motor is toast. On a 315 Monty I owned it did exactly the same, fan wouldn't come on always on its own. But with a flick it would come on. I replaced the fan and it worked as designed. The cut wires are a separate issue I think.

b40rt should be able to help with this.

Crank seals? or worn reed valve, I had a bike with the same symptons as yours, was wear on the reeds.

Thanks grib

grib, any chance you have a 303 manual, you could put a link up for? appreciate all the fantic info you have supplied over the years.

Hob, the tlr200 and tlr250 footpeg mounting bracket are very different unfortunately.

VM-28 is the standard round slide Mikuni, been made for years. TM-28 is the newer flat slide Mikuni with much better throttle response. I have had great results with the flat slide carb on twinshock Hondas, cant help with the jetting for a Yamaha.

Reread post #7 Cope explains it. Some people use a dab of paint.

Thanks for posting that, enjoyed it.