ask greeves

This IS the same guy who sells the Honda Kits, what good is a frame without the swinging arm ! I always look at what this guy has for sale, this particular item, as far as I can remember, had a red and blue tank, earlier on in the week, now it's reddish and fibreglass 'strange'. I find it, quite entertaining, read his feedback.

I've got to say , I try and respond to any persons input, not by a knee jerk reaction to what's been written, but by my lifes experiences and observations... The trouble is, there is no definitive set of rules for pre 65, twin shock or air cooled mono, and until such time , as we ALL get ourselves in gear and get it sorted, there will always be conjecture. I have a very good example of how a definitive rule has 'at a stroke' stopped conjecture. I was considering entering pre 65 Scottish on my ceriani forked Anglian, the rules by the powers that be, are banana forks allowed, no cerianis. My point is a 'line in the sand' has been drawn, and we all have to abide by it. With regard to air cooled mono's, it's exactly what it say's on the box, so yes little scorpas OK...did you know a scorpa has won this championship in the past. Twinshock should be sorted ASAP, time is the biggest enemy, the longer it's left, the harder it will be to sort out, my personal opinion is crankcases and front fork sliders should be of twinshock era and pertinent to the particular make and model and converted monos not allowed, no hydraulics...as simple as that. Entry forms should include not just make, but make and model. The classes should be self regulating, with constructive criticism between the competitors encouraged, and of course the overiding consideration 'must be in the spirit of the class'

Had a Miller framed 325 Bulto around 1965, started of with a proper 325 Bultaco after regular use for a season, was looking a bit tatty, so decided to swap into a miller kit. This was one of the worst decisions I ever made. The bike when finished looked absolutely fantastic, plated frame, alloy tank/seat unit (painted in bulto colours), miller top yoke and the very latest 'trick' american plastic levers. First time out the 'trick' miller top yoke, which was a cast aluminium design, that put the handlebars futher back, broke in half. OK

A tip....10 full pumps on lever..then tie or tape or bungie lever to handlebar, leave overnight. Gives the air in the system a chance to work its way upwards, through the open valve in the master cylinder. Hopefully in morning should work, providing the clutch pushrod is correctly adjusted.

Hi, 1982 200 back kick, had same front forks as 240, identifiable by the rear mounted handlebars and flat type front mudguard bracket (fitting bolts go downwards) also seat should be rubber, not covered foam. Yes the earlier type, forward position top yoke, should fit straight on, without changing bottom yoke. The cylinder head from a 125, will fit , this ups the compression ratio, but not so docile at low rpm. As for flywheel nut, i work on the principal, 'if it don't undo 1 way, it'll undo the other'.

Really, to answer the questions correctly, need to identify exact, which 200 you have, forward kick or back kick...kick start .

I've never heard such load of rubbish, whats the difference, the percentages are exactly the same, in actual fact the loss (to the dealer) as a lump sum of money would be far greater on 25k as to say 4k bike...Oh yes...we all wanted to know you've got a 25k Audi, A4...really nice company car

It's all down to how you 'feel' about the transaction, if you get the 'gut feeling', that the dealer thinks your an 'easy touch', then I personally would ask for my deposit back and go elsewhere. Mind you, I would probably make some preliminary enquires, to see wether the particular item could be purchased elsewhere. If events are as you say, in actual fact the dealers broken his contract, by asking for more money, so your perfectly entitled to the return of your deposit. You could press him in a court of law, to forfill his commitment, but could be a long drawnout and expensive exercise, with several outcomes. A proper dealer would absorb the increase, keeping his customer happy, with no ill feeling, remember your probably going to buy many more items throughout your trials riding. Would you feel happy, to go back to this particular dealer, if any problems arise, regarding warranty etc, or wether they are even bone fide retail dealers. You haven't mentioned where your are , inside or outside the Europian free trade community or what make of bike.

WELD-ON UPDATE.......The full story is as follows, I did in actual fact manage to buy 1 set of weld on brackets, although I wanted to purchase 4 sets from a well known Glous dealer(but at least they had 1 set in stock)....How does this grab you; WES F/Rest Mounting Kit

WES are out of stock.......also wes don't supply to retail...only trade.....only trouble is, seems non of wes's retailers have any in stock......only trouble is.......the retailers will order them, for me from wes.......seems wes is waiting for his Spanish supplier (little man in white van probably) to turn up....'what would you like to buy this time senor, you buy 5 sets, I weeellll give you plenty discount '

Thanks for the info ISAACELY, but I'm after the weld-on brackets only, not the complete brackets and footrests, thanks

Hello there, I want to buy some WELD ON FOOTREST HANGERS, can anybody help, or know where I could purchase, preferably somewhere within the UK...thankyou

The chain tensioner, fitted in the swinging arm, first appeared on late 1984 Michaud Replica 300's, white tank models.

A 240 Fantic tank will fit a 300, although its a tight, push down the last inch fit. A 200 tank will fit a 240, although it's the same problem, push down the last inch. People think a 200 tank and 240 tank are the same. THEY ARE NOT, a 200 tank will not fit a 300, easiest way to tell the difference, the tag that fits under the seat is flat on a 240 and rounded on a 200. Classic Trial makes an aftermarket tank that uses a 300 size underneath with the early narrow 200 top, this fits all models 200 through 300. With regard to the chain tensioner, only the plastic runner is the same on 240-300, spring, arm and location are different between the 2 models.

If your not a mechanic, or don't feel confident enough, don't attempt to try the repair. You'll end up having to take it to a proffessional and you'll probably be 'fined' for your incompidence. The moral of this incident, will be, to treat the machine, with the respect it deserves and as previously written 'be gentle with the kickstart' ...expect to meet BIG BILL !!! The latest price structure, as far as I can remember is

The schrader valve (car tyre size) is part of the shock hydralics and will not alter the 'ride height' The gas in the shock should be an inert gas, and should not be pumped up with air. If your truly a lardi a***, size fb, the spring will either have to more pre-load or changed for a heavier duty spring. These particular bikes , didn't sell in great numbers, most probably ended up in the local canal or returned to China as scrap metal to make computer cases, therefore are quite rare (1st production bike to have both watercooling and upsidedown forks) and well worth repairing the rear mudguard, use the magnet trick, to check wether ferrous or nonferrous material.

Anybody out there, know the results !

I would like to know where you can obtain a Fantic 309 (250cc) piston for a

Hello, I thought the name was ROMAC and the gents name was Clive Miles, from memory a Norman Motorcycle 'works' rider. Hope he reads this, or somebody that knows him.

300 thru 303 virtually same, except for port timing and bottom fin hump. So the answer is yes, exactly the same piston, wasn't until the 305 that the piston changed. Your major consideration is have you got a sized piston for a particular barrel, as pistons are graded A thru E, your particular grading will be found on the top of the barrel and also on top of the piston. From new these corresponded, but being 20 + years old may have been replaced with non matched parts, maybe it'll still work, but won't be as crisp and could be mechanically more noisey.

Here in England we have a blind trials rider, rides solo on a Beamish Suzuki, there has also been several blind sidecar passengers, and at least one, one legged, sidecar driver, and not forgetting an one armed enduro rider. Also we have a number of brainless people, these can usually be identified by asking silly questions, petrol/oil ratio, how much oil in forks etc, so we here in england, keep an eye out for them, stand to attention, salute them and if we can remember it...sing the national athem.

Could be similar to 'why long distance runners don't use pushbikes', notice also got a blade...gillette or wilkinson

seems he's a famous ex speedway rider, disposing of his collection of rare Honda bikes and parts, as he has chosen to leave the UK to take up residence in a tax haven....................

Frame modification is a precise art. OK move your footrests back an inch, for more grip, but what about going up a steep hill, the position of the footrests and your body weight through the pegs are what stops the bike from doing an endo. Don't get me wrong, i'm not saying don't do it, but the Fantic 300 was a finely tuned bit of kit and any modifcation has to be thought through, incidentally Fantic made the 300 footrests alot lower than the 240 and redesigned the footrests to be further back. I've found the best modification for your money is a carb update, that's providing the motors sweet.

Your cracked valve is probably down to the production process, mass produced valves are usually two piece, welded together. 20 years of stopping and starting, with the metal being heated and cooled has probably released the internal stresses, your lucky the head of the valve didn't come detached from the stem. Gordon Farley M/c's keeps a good selection of Honda parts.