taffe

I had similar problems with my 2007 Sherco and traced the problem to a bunch of earth wires terminated up above the radiator on the frame, hard to see. But you may have already checked that. Cheers Taff

Hi, if using the bike in rocky trials type country l would be thinking about those upsidedown forks too, might be a bit too easy to damage the sliders. Taff

Hi, Interesting project, but the workshop caught my eye before the bike. I could not work in that space . Anyway, I cant help with spec's but would measuring a trials frame help? What is the bikes intended use? Good luck with it. Taff

Hi Mik60ish I have been told that a nylock nut only needs two threads contact on the bolt to do it's job. That's according to the guy a my local bolt and nut shop. I just bought new nylock nuts for my rear sprocket. Taff

Ok, thanks guys. Looks like I'll be ok as I've always practiced the techniques mentioned. The other week before my modifications the Pro would not start and my mate [ex dirt bike rider]came over and offered to kick for me. Well I watched three of the kicks he gave it and politely said thanks and pushed the bike to the nearest tree and with one well prepared kick she started. Cheers Taff

Hi, yep all of the above plus I find the same applies to proper trials specific pants and gloves. Guys that have worn m/c helmets at the start soon find trials helmets are the go. Cheers Taff

Hi, Thanks for the advice. I cant understand how changing the position of the boot at the start of the kick, on the outside of the gear box, can effect the meshing of gears on the inside. Is it that it allows too much movement [rotation] of the lever? Is the foot peg meant to limit this movement? Any more info? In my search prior to doing that mod it kept coming up as a fix. Cheers Taff

Hi, I had the same issue and found that the routing of the fuel hose was my problem. The bend was a bit tight and due the walls of the hose not being firm enough, when the hose got hot/warm it kinked slowing down fuel flow. I only noticed it when at higher revs. When I got home of course the hose cooled and regained it original shape. Possibly not your problem but thought I'd throw it out there. Cheers Taff

I had to give the pro a fistful at the time of kicking or no go. I know what the problem has been most of the time, it's my right leg, I can't get a fast enough prod on the lever to turn the motor over fully due to the short rotation of the said lever. I did not mention that, that leg is pushing 74 years old (so is the rest of what it's attached to) so getting up over the bike for a swift kick has been my problem. I had moved the kick lever forwards to increase the rotation, and that helped heaps. Today, another enjoyable ride with first kick starts.

Hi all, I just thought I would share this story as it may help other Pro owner out there. About a year ago I traded my Sherco 125 in for a Gas Gas Pro 250, a great move I thought, that was until I tried to start it. Anyway long story short. Dealer says " it's all technique mate', so I worked on my technique until I could get it started. But I still thought that 5 to 8 or more kicks standing on a crate or leaning against a tree [as per the Gas Gas starting procedure video was too draining on a 35deg day. So next was to change the carbie to a flat slide, and set it up, now that's better, five kicks max, but that's most of the time, not good enough, but I put up with that for about ten months. At times I was so knackered from kicking I had mates come over to give it a go, Beta and Sherco riders battled because they did not have the "technique", apparently you don't need a lot of "technique" to start their bikes. Whereas many riders need a tree handy just to stand their bikes up I needed one to be able start the mine, but not any more, it seems, I fitted flywheel weights. Now I get a smoother ride and starting I could only dream of before. No tree, no box, No need for mates [well there is really] no swearing and I can start the bike in my sandals, instead of pulling on a boot in the workshop. I still use the "technique" but first kick starts are now much more frequent if not the norm. Started first kick after a week in the shed, first kick off the ute, first kick after the bike being upside down on a hill for 2-3 minute, until I got back up to it. Gotta be happy with that! Cheers Taff

Hi jkd, I just plug the muffler, you can buy special plugs for the job or what ever you got to hand. I spray the whole bike with truck wash mud and all [hmmm I haven't seen any mud for over a year] let it sit while I'm getting the hose ready and then spray away, I don't use high pressure and I'm mindful of areas like flywheel and air box covers. Enjoy Taff

Hi James, I recently reworked my clutch and followed the info from the Gas Gas website. Paying attention to plate pack thickness and spec's re the fingers set up. Clutch is the lightest anybody here has experienced and works fine. Bike may drag forewords [slightly] with no weight on it, but does not creep if I'm standing on it. Check out the video of the clutch job. Lay the bike one it's side, saves draining the oil. Cheers Taff

What about auto body shop, my local mixes small amounts for me. Cheers Taff

Hi gfisch, Good advice above. I started again after 20 odd years away from the sport. I restarted on my mates 200 Beta we shared the bike in our practice country for three months. I was surprised at how much my body needed to come up to speed, the brain had not forgotten what to do but the body....well. The brain kept telling me no you cant do that anymore. I could not believe that I once rode national trials rounds all over Australia. At that time I started again I was 69 years young, and got my own Beta 250. And now four years and three bikes later I've worked my way up by regular riding and practice. I feel great when younger riders say they have had enough and I'm still firing . Enjoy, just pick your battles. Cheers Taff

Great, what's all that green stuff every where? Oh, I remember it's grass or some thing like it. My back yard is big too, but dry as, I can't remember that time it rained. Enjoy, Taff

Oops, that should read bedding in. Taff

Hi, my understanding is that a light hone (etching) of the bore aids the bending in of the new rings. Cheers Taff

Hi Jkd, getting mine into gear with a boot is near impossible, I always use my hand to get neutral. That's a good tip about not starting the bike in gear, a dragging clutch makes the bike even harder to turn over and fire up. Enjoy Taff

Hi, in our group we always clean the damaged area with metho or some such thing and fill with superglue, then buff back level. You can also run a very thin feeler gauge or plastic strip around the inside the top edge of the seals to clear any dust that can cause leaks. Cheers Taff

I like that a lot. Taff

Hmmmm, Crazybond I'd have to wear my helmet in the shed all the time with that hoist hanging from the roof. To justify the cost I'd need to see how many times I've needed to hang my bikes up to the roof to work on them. Well, in the last 55 years not once, so money saved there. Anyway I like to go down the DIY track first then the catalogue. Cheers Taff

Yes I have a smaller floor jack that I modified as you describe, pumps the bike up to get both wheels off the floor if needed.

Hi all, just thought I'd show my modifications to my Harley bike lift jack stand so that is suits the Gasser. It should all make sense in the photo's. The ramp is fixed at the front and goes the floor at the back, wheel the bike on, secure it to the tie down straps, chock the rear wheal and pump away with a foot [any foot] and up goes the back end. Gets the bike up to a good workable height. Cheers Taff

I agree, I'm going to "bin" the rest of the posts on this thread.

Wow, looks like this thread could go on until dadof2 is a dadof4.