jimw

Great engineering & grip and carburation is always spot on plus unbelievable warranty (2yrs on most parts) - has transformed jsp's riding - just waiting for him to land on his a*** (is a*** really not allowed! Is **** allowed? nope definitely not - not even a first letter) and let the rest of us catch up! Having said that I've got a new bike so mine will be up for sale in a week or so (280 2013 with 2012 head and 2014 gearbox) - PM me if you want any more details. Cheers Jim

Don't ride until it is right - otherwise you're looking at a chronic injury. Or get a 'pain killing injection' and really screw it up. Those moto GP boys are going to be cripples Jim ...Doctor to the stars

Had one for 12 months, loved it and hated it. However unless you are prepared to put some work in on softening the power I wouldn't recommend it to a beginner/new novice. The main problem is that it is very tiring to ride - the suspension is nice ,it is lighter than a mont but can be temperamental . You have to stay on top of it otherwise it will lead you astray - and not in a good way...... I'd go for the Beta - much more forgiving. Cheers Jim

My view for what it's worth is that you should go for the 300. As you say nice and soft and torquey - 280 is a bit more aggressive (although not ridden an '09 - have owned an '09 250 and ridden an '08 300 raga) - I liked the 250 with a flat slide - nice and smooth too but if I were to get another gasser then I'd get a 300 but maybe soften it off with a weight/compression change. Interested in your evo comments - I have 2010 250 and it is very soft off the bottom - really like it. Cheers Jim

Don't shoot the messenger - was told this by a dealer who sells X-lites and X11 s. What is the weight difference? Jim

I am reliably informed that the whilst the rears have a different construction to the X11, the fronts are the same as a standard X11 but just cost more - so I'd stick to an X11 front and X lite rear.. Jim

Thanks Just make sure you record the next 2 hours of programmes as well - Eurosport 2 tend to run a very 'approximate' schedule! Cheers Jim

Been a while since I had one but I think there is a screw on the throttle body Cheers Jim

That looks buggered. On the plus side the new cases are made out of different stuff and aren't supposed to corrode. It's also an easy job. Make sure you use a good quality coolant premix as well. Regards Jim

For all round fun got to be the Sherco BUT it does go wrong quite a bit, is a sod to start & doesn't pick up cleanly off low revs. I do however love mine. The clutch is very smooth ( beta and older Monts are a bit on-off), suspension is lovely and it is quite flickable. Power is not as aggressive as people think but you do have to stay 'on-top' of it otherwise it can get away. However having said that my next bike will be an evo 4t. The Beta is smoother and more reliable but I don't like the front end (tends to like to go straight on but you just need to adapt a bit) or the clutch. (not owned one but have ridden one) Monts feel heavy (esp front end), clutch problem is sorted and later model camshaft changes ('07 I think) have smoothed the power out.Suspension is plush. Very reliable, great build quality.(owned one) Can't go wrong with any of them really but all quite different beasts. Regards Jim

I've sent you an email Jim

Hi Paul, As an aside you haven't got a penchant for medicine, IT and Nobles have you? Regards Jim PS I can assure you that I can be of no practical help whatsoever regarding your question but I am confident the great and good on this site will point you in the right direction.

loads of tyre soap and a yomee tyre beader ( I have seen it done with a long rag but much easier with the beader) - then take valve inner out and get some psi in. Some people try a tie-down strap around the tyre circumference but I don't find it works. regards Jim

I seem to recall the shim depression was 1mm so try making that adjustment and see if the shim sizes make sense. Otherwise if that doesn't work I'll dig out my spare shims and measure them. Jim

Hi, There have been reports of broken tensioner springs - it is self tensioning. I would remove it as it is very straightforward (just take the 2 bolts out - to replace if it is Ok remember to re-tension it before trying to replace otherwise it'll never go back in) and check the spring is OK first of all. Regards Jim

The main requirement is a sound proof room and the removal of all objects that could do harm. I also suggest a warm-up session of swearing very loudly to get it out of your system then you can begin. The main problem is that the removal and refitting of the radiator it is a complete *******(didn't know that even counted as a swear word these days.....heard worse on the Disney Channel). I got a great tip off Greg and I have pasted it below - it is the only way I have managed to get the radiator in and out. Unfortunately you can't get the rocker box off without removing the radiator. 'Its a tricky thing to fit , what i did was removed it with the fan cowl attached (through laziness i think) , i tried all methods to refit it but the only way i managed to reinstal it was (with rocker cover installed) feed the radiator from front wheel area top tank and filler cap end first in between the frame down tubes , start with the radiator horizontal whilst passing it into the frame tubes , youll get to the fan cowl and it will bind up on the frame tubes , i just worked it past the frame tubes gradually , try not to let it flex the aluminium of the radiator , as you are doing this start raising the filler end of the rad up, this will let the fan motor clear the rocker cover , Once i the upright position (coil and rectifier etc removed for space) the hardest bit i found was to get the radiator into the locating holes in the frame and also getting the bottom hose fitting at the correct side of the right hand side downtube bracket. when the rad is in the upright position there is a bit of room to move it up vertically this alows a bit of wrestling to get the locating dowels into place.' The actual shim adjustment is straightforward - the only slight difficulty is that the shim has a central depression which tends to be about 1mm but you can measure it with the sharp end of a vernier gauge to be sure so that you know which shim sizes to order. I worked out what shims I wanted first and then ordered them - including one size up and down from each so I had options.The shim sizes are listed in the parts manual which is online at the Sherco site I think. Best of luck and drop me a PM if you have any problems. Cheers Jim

It is an easy job to fit the unit but you will need the shop to map it unless you shell out further cash on a connector lead and software for your laptop so you can do it yourself (not cheap!). When I had a 4RT I fitted a dual map unit and didn't notice much difference to be honest ( I had to check the switch was actually working it was so hard to tell!) - I certainly wouldn't fit one again although others may have had more success. Hope that helps Jim

Try http://www.sherco.com/wayne/Tubeless_Tire_...ging_Manual.pdf or ask TrialsUk to do it for you (easier and cheaper!) Jim

Hi, My nephew had the Xispa at about that age but found it a bit intimidating so then got an Oset which he found great - might be worth looking at one (Steve Saunders or Graham Jarvis will sell you one) Personally I thought the Xispa was great - if I had one I'd put it on the wall! Regards Jim

That is terrible service - as Dave says go back to the shop and demand your money back as they have sold you defective goods.

4 ground anchors, a great big lock and an American Pit Bull Sorry Jeff...couldn't resist... tried to but just couldn't Jim

You need to drift them out with a rod of softer metal than the hub and a hammer. Basically put the rod into the wheel hub from the opposite side to the side you want to knock the wheel bearing out of - let it rest on the bearing inside shoulder and crack it with a hammer - work your way around and it should pop out. To put a new bearing in just lay it into the wheel hub housing - put a socket over it that is the right size to sit over the outside rim of the bearing but small enough to slip inside the hob bearing housing and gently tap it home. Alternatively if you are still stuck try searching 'You Tube' - there is usually a tutorial for anything & everything on there. Hope this helps. jim

Might be worth resetting the float level to cut off at a little lower fuel level even if it is as spec. & see if that helps - did that with my Sherco 4T keihin and worked a treat. You can always reset it if it doesn't work. regards Jim

Check whether you have power to the low tension side of the coil - if so check the low tension circuit is intact by using meter or bulb and battery. Let me know the results Regards Jim

Give Trials uk (www.trialsuk.co.uk) a ring - they'll get you one and post it out. regards Jim