chris morris

go for the best condition bike you can find what ever it is, if you're just starting out the differences between the makes won't really matter. you could probably get a tatty 2006 for £1000 that would cost you alot to upkeep or a tidy 2003 which would ride almost identically but not cost you so much to run personally a good condition beta rev 3 or montesa 315

yep this one http://www.betamotor.com/en/trial/parts/marmitta-silenziatore-rev-4t-racing got it on my 08 300 4t

It's a 1998 Tx250, pretty sure its my bike that i sold 5 years ago (ding on front pipe)

these are the bearings that i have used BLRB366748AA SHOCKER HK1216-2RS REAR BRAKE HK2218-RS SWING ARM 6004-2RS WHEELS 32004x HEAD STOCK

pretty sure they should be 173, same as most gasgas, sherco and 4rt, its a AJP caliper

you normally change your bike before the pads wear out or the chain needs adjusting. galfers are good, but don't last so long, goldfren or apico are a harder pad and seem to wear the disc more, they all seem to stop as good as each other. i used to be a galfer only man but after struggling to find them tried the other and have been swayed.

totally of opposite opion, raptors cracked on weld after 18 months, replaced with titanium s3 can't fault them. really good grip

mich x11, lately irc seem to lose tyre pressure on rocks. Parkwood offroad centre also known as tong is open next saturday. it's open once a month for trials practice. It's nothing like cowm, woods and streams, that's prob about 40min away from M62 J21(milnrow/shaw),

P.M me your email and i'll give you all the info i have got from when i had one. got partslist, fornt and rear supension drawings and ohter bits and bobs

personally i'd remove the carb, thoroughly clean it and all and check the adjustment/needle. my experiance from the sealed cdi unit is the either work or dont. have you check the pins on the cdi unit plug. i know it's a rev 4t but on the evo they are more vunerable to water ingress and corrosion and that can make it run rough.

What are you trying to achieve by adjusting the timing? is it running rough or do you want to calm the bike down abit?

You can't. Well i think anyway. (covered my ass there) flywheel is keyed to shaft, pickup doesn't move and neither does stator. only thing you could do would be to change the CDI unit. THIS kit has a different CDI.

i could do with some new ones too, they seem to swell and and then are useless, looked everywheere with no joy

HT lead off, kickstart off, gear lever off, lock through both wheels and frame and into ground anchor. then even if they bring their own ht lead they can't even bumb start it

what happened on mine was the weld on the washer of the steel part of the kickstart had cracked causing the slop. so basically the kickstart was free to move on the spline and only the washer was holding it roughly in position. have a check whether the washer is still welded properly to the other part.

if you need a poster doing maybe this guy can help. posters

08 and the 07/08 rev 4t, but to be honest the 07 is probably the cheapest, pre 07 have different hole pattern/shape

depends what year, up to 2006 yes there's a boss behind the headlight on the bottom yoke and bolts in the frame, after 2006 no boss but the bolt holes are still there

think the replacement parts are now aluminium

yep, there is plenty for beginners. you'll have to pay

yes there should be one and yes it matters, as your pads wear fluid is taken from the reservoir to fill the void behind the caliper pistons

yep, but you'll also have to buy a new airbox cover and stickers for that don't come with

2008 2t rear mudgaurd is approx £100, 2007 is approx £90,

here are the parts lists not sure where manuals are here is a 2008 manual, should be pretty much the same

No, there shouldn't be a seal in the top, but if you put some silicone seal round the steel cap to reduce the gap. To get the bearing off, break aprt the bearing until only the inner race is left, then using a slitting wheel (i use a little dremel one) cut a slit in the bearing as deep as you can then hit the slit with a chisel causing the bearing to crack, before i get told other methods, you can alternatively use a bearing puller to get it off or try heating it up. To put the new bearing on, either find a tube that fits on the inner race and tap it back to the bottom or as i did stick the bearing in the oven for a little while and it will just drop on and shrink into place as it cools, 1 other thing, try not to blast the headstock with the jetwash or any bearings, it just pushes the grease out and water and grit in.