chris morris

got some black S3 ones from saunders,

if they are knackered, and won't clean out by re-tapping m5 then drill 5.0 and tap m6, 5.3 is too big, to work out the tapping drill size for metric threads minus the pitch of the thread from the size i.e(m6 - 1 pitch = 5), they have upgraded them to m6 on the 2011 evo

nope, that was for a 2006 rev 3

i got the bearings from a local bearing dealer they are an SKF bearing BLRB366748AA,think it was about

Firstly the two pipes by your swingarm are gearbox breather and flywheel breather. Your problem could be your water pump seal has gone or inner clutch cover has corroded and as soon as you put the water in the radiator it's coming striaght back out of the gearbox breather, what is your gearbox oil like? milky?

just looked at my reciept it was

yep, thats a bad case, surprised it hasn't sprung a leak yet as the outer seal has no where to sit. about

bent carb needle or flywheel shifted possibily

had a file with these in, think i may have copied it from a previous post Tightening torque Rev3: Shock absorber-Swingarm 45Nm Shock absorber-Frame 45Nm Connecting frame rod-frame 23 Nm Cylinder-Crankcase 20-23 Nm Primary drive gear 120 Nm Handlebar 25 Nm Engine-frame 50 Nm Swingarm bolt 90 Nm Front wheel axle 65 Nm Rear wheel axle 65 Nm Steering stern bracket 25 Nm Rear fender bracket 10-15 Nm Front brake pad 20-23 Nm Rear brake pad 20-23 Nm Engine Head-Cylinder nuts 15-16 Nm Front axle fixing nuts 10 Nm Flywheel 140 Nm As for a schedule, if they're loose tighten them.

give me your email or p.m me with it and i'll send you a partlists for the 98-99 bikes plus some other stuff i've got from when i had one.

thanks, i knew i was going wrong somewhere

pretty sure its me. but trying to find the results for yesterday to see how my mates going on, but can't seem to find any, other than that spot track thing? which i haven't got a clue how to use.

How Thick is the sheet? would it last a while if i put it on the sides of my frame?

make sure the woodruff key on the flywheel that hasn't sheared, especially after you cleared it out and it changed

It needs the spacer between the bearings to stop the bearings being crushed when you tighten up the spindle. The o' ring is there to hold the spacer concentric in the hub, but also to allow it to pivot out of the way when removing the bearings

agree with the above, probably the end of the cable not seated properly

the stretch is very minimal, it's the wear on the pins and rollers that causes the adjustment to be made. as it wears larger pieces of grit can get in, thats why they are ok for a while but as soon as it starts to go you seem to be adjusting it sooner and sooner, until its knackered. i think as for the split link never had any problems using them on bikes.

no probs, makes a change that i'm right for a change

flywheel might of twisted slightly, causing the timing to be out

if you totally drowned it and filled the cylinder with water it could of stopped the engine dead shearing the woodruff key on the flywheel. only a thought,

maybe your pads are glazed or contaminated, try riding with your front brake on for a minute or two, then pour water on your disk and pads to cool it. i've always found the galfers to be one of the best

Yes Park wood is open for trials practising, probably once a month or so on saturdays. You'll have to ring up and find out when. Park Wodd Off-Road Centre

galfer, they have them on ebay if that helps FD 223 (FRONT) FD 335 (REAR)

SKF, they were

HK2218-RS