arnoux

Full engine manual is available here The Hell Team Technical Downloads page

I do not know of a Boysen that will fit (doesn't mean there isn't one, but I cannot find one!). Pogipollini do have a carbon one that fits. The Yamaha reed stoppers from late model TYZ work well in conjunction with the standard reeds. They stop the reeds from "fluttering" at high revs.

If it is an 06 or 07 model try this: The Hell Team - SY250F carb Mods 06/07

Do you have a problem with the standard reeds? What year SY? Have you fitted the Yammy stoppers as per the 09 mods? What are you trying to fix/modify etc?

www.b100.it

S3 do not have aheader for it yet as far as i know. The idle screw can be changed on the carb, BUT.... it does not fit on the SY250F, not enough clearance between the carb and chassis rail. The 290cc big bore kit does not increase the engine braking. S3 now make a nice big bore kit for the Yamaha 4 banger. Also Vertex do a 300cc.

We have used an Athena 290 big bore kit. Very good. Big increase in bottom end No minuses, unless you count trying to hang onto the bloody thing when it hooks up. Some rejetting required. No change to Airbox. need to run a couple of head gaskets to keep compression the same.

3 turns out on the fuel screw is a good setting if you have a 17.5 pilot fitted. If you have the standard 15 pilot fitted this could be the issue.

Actually it has gained weight. the Racing spec (not UK spec) flywheels used to be machined a lot more than they are now. When Marc Colomer came on board as Tech consultant the wheels were changed for a heavier spec. (07 from memory). Only about half the weight is now machined off from the standard Yamaha (UK spec) flywheel. Here's an early racing flywheel, notice the large part machined from the outer edge. Current ones have about half this amount removed.

put the verniers on the rod - it's the same OD. Or try Yamaha dealer part number: 93505-16006 PS. tried responding to your mail, but your email address no worky!

Volcano Please email me at arnoux@thehellteam.com and i will give you the full specs on the ECU upgrade and how to do it. DO not attempt it without the proper Factory instructions. It is a dedicated Scorpa ECU and not a WR unit. It does make a big difference!

There is a photo essay on The Hell Team / Scorpa Australia website about SY250R timing. Scorpa Timing - The Hell Team. The bikes delivered in the 03 - 06 years in Britain had a more retarded timing than the bikes delivered to Australia. They also had a heavier flywheel. Not sure about the current models settings in the UK. The timing mark on the stator plate is stock Yamaha timing or British timing. It can be advanced from this mark for a snappier response. What year is your bike? If it is more than a couple of years old it could be the middle box muffler and final muffler gummed up - this will really choke a two strokes power. When were the rings last done? There is heaps of power on tap with a Scorpa motor if you know how to release it. But you do need to start with a clean, well built system first. Give us some more information if you can. And we can better advise you on a course of action. Arnoux

Fast Throttle - zero to full throttle, 90 degrees of rotation on the throttle tube Slow Throttle - zero to full throttle, 123 degrees of rotation on the throttle tube

check out the tech section on www.thehellteam.com . The Australian Scorpa importer. There is a tech essay with photos on just the subject.

This information is also available on the Scorpa Australia / The Hell Team website.

There is a product called Plastex that works a treat. It comes in different colours, and the blue is not a bad match for Scorpa blue. it can be sanded and painted when dry. Their website is: Plastex You can also get it professionally plastic welded. The base material is a type of Nylon. Paul The Hell Team.

At The Hell Team / Scorpa Australia we are trying to get all the manuals onto our website eventually. We are most of the way there, and i hope to be able to supply all years as soon as possible. Unfortunately it's not "free" to post them as you stated Renegade. i have to pay for the data storage and the bandwidth usage. So everytime you download a manual from our site it does cost us. Saying that it won't stop us trying to give the best support possible. if there is anything that is stumping you don't hesitate to email me and I'll attempt to give you a clear and concise answer, or find one for you. no matter were you are! Arnoux

Renegade Scorpa has always had the manuals available for the current years models available on their website. The bikes have also been supplied new for a number of years with the manuals on CD. There is also the current and a lot of the older manuals available on the extensive Scorpa Australia website www.thehellteam.com There is very comprehensive engine manuals, parts manuals, and user manuals. If you purchased new they should have come with the bike. if you purchased second hand maybe you should speak with the previous owner. Arnoux

Scorpa Factory settings for 1999 Easy: Main : 100 Pilot : 35 Needle : N427GHG Needle Shaft : NC Needle Clip : 2nd clip from the top Airscrew : -3/4 turn Ignition advance PMH : 1.75 Plug: Champion N12YC regards The hell team. Rotax_info.pdf

Check this out: http://www.thehellteam.com/SYF-Clutch.html

14mm

No mate Having ANY Trials bike is far better than no bike at all. Go get it!

Correct - the 07/08 stand is the dog's @#$%^&*'s. Definitely the way to go. Earlier ones are a bit light on, especially for those who kick the bike over while still on the side stand! WetFeet - We have some side stands for 98 Easy if you strike out in the UK. Easy stands will not fit Post 2000 Scorpa's and vica versa. The pins are in a different location. Paul Scorpa Australia / The Hell Team.

14mm

Reasonably common problem, probably due to never having torqued the bolts properly at the factory, or the owner not retorqueing after running in the motor (have you done your cylinder head bolts?......) Easily fixed with a judicious use of exhaust sealant. Remove the header pipe (a cut down allen key makes removal of the left hand side bolt heaps easier). Leave the original gasket in place and apply a full circle of a fine bead of sealant to the exhaust flange. Refit and torque down. Leave it to go off before starting the motor. I like to use the PermaTex High-Temp copper coloured gasket sealant, but there is many brands and types available. It will cure the leak if applied properly.