2stroke4stroke

14/52 was standard on the Sherpa. We used to fit a 15 for running around but I don't recall it feeling anything but low in top on the road if that is any guide.

Apart from anything else the spooge will have gathered in the silencer so you won't be able to tell if anything you do has had any effect on that until you take it apart and clean out the excess oil. The resulting necessary repack will also improve running.

Fit a half link to shorten the chain.

I tend to agree with Baldilocks but, as the subject has been raised; the price of bikes and bits might be totally irrelevant - how long will your favourite local farmer survive if the UK Government chooses not to replicate EU subsidies.....................

I had a TY with a "new" lever fitted. Persevere with the welding embrelleur.

Sammy Miller Products list one, but no stock just now.

In the March issue of On the Pegs there was a photo of the rear mudguard doubled over with no problem. Even better than the ones we used in the Seventies.

Having some experience of an automatic clutch (not off road) I can say that billyt is right. Sometimes you want to ease the clutch out and sometimes you want to bang it out. Neither is necessarily rev-related so you don't want to be tied to only one option.

My recollection is that the Comerford supported guys were replacing Bing slides every couple of trials such was the wear rate. Are they obtainable now?

I have experienced this stalling in very tight turns with various tickover settings and can only think I have let the load get just too high for the situation (ie I should have used more clutch to reduce the load or more throttle to keep the engine speed up, probably the latter). The late Mick Gallacher recommended 1850 as the optimum tickover speed and nobody had more experience than he. Another dealer reckons 1750. A pal has run at 1300 to 1400 for years with no issues. Mine will occasionally start with that very low tickover you mention but cuts out if I attempt to use the throttle. If I don't it stops eventually but never speeds up of its own volition.

It's not a rattle but a deeper noise (but doesn't sound like bearings) at tickover which came on after an 80 mile run on the road, at a careful speed. As it had a new piston just before I got it I have faith that the guides would have been done if required. Anyway, it seems I can remove and inspect the tensioner without potential disaster so will do so. Thanks.

I have what I hope is a camchain tensioner in need of adjustment; the manual says nothing about this. It looks like it may be an automatic tensioner. I don't want to remove the cover and end up overtightening the chain. Has anyone any experience of doing the tension?

Thanks. Useful to know.

I was thinking of doing my tank with vinyl wrap - do you know how petrol resistant it is? I'm guessing it won't take long to start lifting along the edge on the mudguard

But designed to also do the gearbox on the typical Japanese multi producing a multiple of the power and torque of a trials bike so there should be no detriment, particularly if changed at trials frequencies.

I think the average running temp of the coolant is in the nineties. How long can you hold your finger on a nearly boiling metal kettle?

According to the specification sheet it's a real wonder fluid used in all sorts of comp and racing machinery so it should protect a trials gearbox and primary drive just fine.

I certainly found the Gaernes to be small in the foot.

I'm afraid none of these Hitler rants have amused me much since I was spoiled by the one where he did not get an entry for the Pre'65 at Kinloch. I laughed out loud at that one - never have so many nails been hit on the head in one go.

Based on my experience I would not suggest NOS. Whilst it hasn't been used and heated/cooled etc it's still forty years old and might possibly be subject to deterioration (or not), who knows how it has been stored these decades. A good rewind will be guaranteed to work and keep working.

William Woollard et al☺ Let's have a proper motoring programme and not a motoring themed "comedy". Hell, they even used to have motorcycles on it once every six years.

It is not uncommon for elderly TY 175 low tension coils to be kaput. I got mine rewound rather than go to what people have found to be an unreliable electronic system. In its day the TY set up was regarded as very good so I saw no reason to abandon it. The modern rewind uses better materials than were available in the day.

Thunder Bay; if you haven't met Stuart McLuckie you soon will☺

I have size 8s too (about average for a male of my generation?). My 4RT came with what I think is an Apico pedal which may be a bit less exposed than the standard but gives enough leverage and easily reached. I ride with my instep on the rest and lift my toes, as it were, to put the weight on to the back of the rest to get grip if necessary. I then have no need to lift my foot to reach the brake, but it should be possible to get used to doing so - we all need to lift the other foot off to change gear in a section, as is occasionally done, after all. You'll never get a trials bike absolutely perfect in this regard. I'm sure an ergonomist would be aghast at our set ups. I have not heard of a dual control device can you give us more info Oz T?

The one you have shown as 2006 is the same appearance as the standard one on my 2003. Your 2003 one must be some aftermarket item.