shercoholic

Yamaha seems to like the idea if you look at their 2010 YZ450F, and they even have a Cannondale reverse style cylinder ...titlted backwards just for triple summersaults!

10/10 for persevering but next time best get together with an older and wiser mate (..or your local dealer.) At least now you have a clean exhaust and carb, and can take it apart with your eyes closed. MC is correct. Thanks for sharing your pain, so others could gain, but please refrain (from starting a thread the way you did) lest we turn insane!

....It's one thing to apply proven ideas (wheels), implement them differently (add tyres), or even improve on them (put air in the tyres), but tracing paper, even smudging it a bit, is still tracing paper.

Short of learning to ride with your hands behind your back... suggest you check for a loose flywheel nut and/or a sheared flywheel key, and while you have the flywheel off check the position of the stator plate and timing mark.

Very tidy setup to keep the exhaust heat off the breather hose. Nothing like stating the obvious but just in case ....is that inlet manifold hose clamp just moved out of the way for carb disassembly?

Have you topped up the rad lately and possibly overfilled it. The rad overflow hose runs down inside the rhs frame spar and the excess coolant will end up on the bashplate.

.. What is the temperature rating of the thermo switch i.e. what result should I record if I measure the temperature of the coolant??? Did your switch 'click' between 63 and 66 degC, or thereabouts?

Have you tried downloading them from the RYP website? http://www.shercousa.com/?action=9

Best to try a 10t countershaft sprocket first as this will only require moving the rear axle forward on the snail cams, otherwise you may be looking for extra chain links. However one tooth on the front is approx 4 on the back so proceed with caution in the nadgery.

So now the dilema will be deciding between the 09-125 Academy and the 09-125 Academy Racing, after all with those blue flames you must like blue right?

Not sure when you post a question on a Sherco forum why you get so may other well wishers trying to make life complicated with their other brand opinions. If you already have a Sherco in the household it makes perfect sense to continue with the brand especially if you like the ergonomics which are very important to enjoying your ride. 95% of the parts will be interchangeable, and the Sherco design is improved incrementally year to year with any revised parts fitting the earlier models. The 125 geometry will be very close to the 2.90 or 2.50, (some 125's have shorter swingarm) although the 125 will have a lighter feel when riding with the shorter stroke and lighter flywheel. Just take your usual calm and collected approach to methodically check over the parts that you would expect to have had some wear and tear, and check the action of the rear shock. A ride up the road through the gears and a listen to the engine will tell you a lot, as will a good chat with the owner. Not always possible with e-bay so beware. Unless there are a lot of used bikes available 1000 seems too good for an 05. Good luck

as well as√ new cylinder barrel, piston, and head. √ new footpegs √ new footpeg location √ new airbox √ new gravity fighting Superman stickers......

I would think the 4T would be really sweet for you. Caby seems to like his blinged out gold "racing" 320 with a 2nd place Sat in Corunna. So will the Jitsie clothing also reflect the colour change - all will be revealed at Sheffield!

As previously suggested start by checking the clutch lever master cylinder reservoir. Has the fluid level dropped? Are the clutch hose connections tight and dry. Once you have topped up and bled the system of any air then if same problem persists, try checking the condition of the o-rings on the clutch slave cylinder puck. Any leaking fluid is not immediately apparent because of the o-ring seal between the slave cylinder and the crankcase. Please let us know what you discover as these forums thrive on feedback.

In the Keihin with the SPS mods the main jet holder 'insert' has holes drilled on the top face which is inserted into the holder first with the spring pressure on the bottom retained by the main jet. Please be careful that the other slide needle insert that sits in the throat of the carb doesn't twist or fall out when removing the main jet holder to remove the bowl. Regular Sherco Keihins do not need the main jet holder removed to remove the bowl, but the SPS is different with the main jet sitting so low in the carb. Caution also when removing the bowl not to force the overflow tube against the floats, as the bowl doesn't drop off, rather it needs a three handed hinge, twist, and slide movement! Hope this helps.

A very touching tribute Bill. Please be sure to pass along sincere condolences to Howards family from all on this Sherco forum who have enjoyed his very knowledgeable postings and wry sense of humour. God speed Howard

Has anyone tried an alternate to the NGK BCPR6E for easier (read local) availability. It has to have a removable top to work with the standard plug cap.

So Wayne is the 3.2 starting to loosen up a little - still having lots of fun?

Have you already tried calling RYP as he may know of a bike not listed on the website used bike list. This may be a little further than you intended to travel? http://www.trialscanada.com//cgi-bin/class...ex=192864639059 Good luck

While you have the carb off check that the breather hose on the exhaust side of the carb is in good shape as it can get close to the hot exhaust if the carb is twisted a little. Better yet drill out (carefully) the same vent on the near side of the carb, but attach a short hose as the vent is horizontal and easy to get c**p in the carb without the hose fitted.

Since the tank design changed with the 06 black frame the petrol cap no longer has a one way valve so look to see if petrol is also sloshing out the breather hose depending on the way the hose is routed, and depending on your nose wheelie lean angle?

Judging by your avatar Ian I would stay away from the fire and petrol, especially as we are talking an aluminium silencer. Very difficult to get a controlled burn without melting the whole kit and caboodle. Plenty of topics on this forum (search on silencer) about cutting open, and repacking but you will need a skilled welder to seal back up. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....4&hl=repack http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....xhaust&st=0 http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/upload...-1106700014.jpg http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....&hl=exhaust

Thanks for the politically correct apology - it sounded very sincere, but I had no idea you were so interested in gardening - cheeky b*@@#r