scot taco

P.M. sent John.Thanks for the help.

Does lowering and moving the footrest back change the steering much? I have a 1970 Ossa that I,ve lowered the pegs on a little.Just wondering if lowering them more and moving them back would help the front end not want to push or plow in a tight turn.

Mick Andrews and Nigel Birkett did a test on one not too long ago in one of the classic bike magazines.That was the first time I,ve seen one and I really like the looks of it.I had a TY350 mono that I really liked,but I think the Gasser is a much better looking bike.I would wonder though if spares would be difficult to find.

Thanks to all for the replies.I went out to the garage to check out the cylinder. Larry,it is indeed a 175cc and thank you for the heads up because now that you have mentioned it I remember reading about most being swapped out for 250 barrels also. David-also a good call on making sure a 250 would bolt up.I was going on what Hughs had told me,but it doesn,t hurt to check first.The O.D. on the barrel spigot of the Alpina measures the same as a set of 250 pursang cases that I have.It,s not a real thick sleeve,the spigot is extra thick to take up the space.It is also good to know that the Alpina gear box can work. Woody, those are the things I was wondering about maybe being a problem.There is a complete m49 trans on ebay right now and thought it might just work.If I can make do with different sprockets it would be easier and a bit cheaper.If I were to buy a trans I would check with the parts suppliers here first.I would rather buy from them if they are not too crazy on prices. Thanks to all of you for the help and quick replies.

Alchemy84,nice job on bringing the Monty back to life.I would really like to try one of those some day. Nice buy johnmartin,those are like finding hens teeth around here.

I bought a m98 175 Alpina engine on the cheap last year to build for a trials bike thinking the trans gear ratios would be the same as a Sherpa T.They are closer to a Pursang ratios so I don,t think they would work to well for a trials bike.Would a m49 trans be a direct swap? I,m going to put a 250 top end on it so is there anything else I,m missing that would need to be changed?

I wasn,t trying to give you a wrong answer bondy,but reading the other replies 15 does seem too much.I might have mis-interpreted my manual.I was going by what it says under forks,the last setting,'bottom bracket -stanchion tube clamp." I did not know they where threaded yokes so I,m really glad the others chimed in because my answer might have caused you some troubles. I have always done it by feel so I guess I need to think more and research more before I answer questions like this! Thanks to all for a correct answer

15 ft/lb so yes don,t go crazy tight as I have seen a set that where cracked.

This is from an old magazine dated May 1974.I thought it might be of some interest although I realise many of you might already know of the mods.My pics didn,t turn out the best,but I thought the steering head angle mod was of interest.I wonder how much it was pulled back?The only other change from stock was a set of girling shocks.

I have been on the MAVT site looking at the OKO carbs and have been kicking around getting one.It seems like they would be very helpful on getting it set up correctly and I like the option of the clear float bowl.It,s good to read that they work that good. That is a good way to check the correct float level dadof2 and simple enough that I should have thought of it.I will try that with a less oiled air filter (I saturated the heck out of it with oil) and new O-rings and see what happens before I order a new carb. Thanks again to all !

Thanks for the reply Larry.I did set the floats level,but did not try to replace the o-ring on the needle jet.It,s not something I have been able to find yet for sale and I haven,t looked through the o-ring kits at work yet to see if I can find a match.I,m waiting on a new o-ring for the crankshaft and then will put it all together and give it another try with a better adjusted carb .I think in the long run my best bet will be to just order a new carb. Thanks again to everyone for the help.

This is the only TK carb with the main jet screwed into the side of the bowl that I have ever fiddled with.So just to be sure,should the floats be level with the float bowl base like a regular VM round slide mikuni ?

First,a little history on the bike.I sold it,regrettedit,then was lucky enough to be able to buy it back.When I got it back home the carb was full of old,bad fuel and the some of the airbox mounts where broke.I fixed the airbox,put in a new filter and gave the carb a good cleaning.I pulled the carb back off tonight for some pics and I noticed two things that made me feel pretty stupid.First,the air screw was never adjusted to the turn and a half to two turns out.I must have just screwed it in aways after cleaning because it was about four and a half full turns out! The other thing is the float level which I have a pic of.Shouldn,t they be level with the bottom of the float bowl mating surface? My other question is if the o-ring on the main jet.Could it cause problems if it,s worn? It doesn,t seem to fit real snug into the bottom of the float bowl.I couldn,t get a good picture of the needle,but it does feel worn.

I pulled the drive gear off the end of the crank tonight to check if I had put the o-ring back on before I had put the gear on.The o-ring was there and still had some fresh grease on it from when I had put it all back together when I replaced the seal.I cannot remember if it was the old o-ring,a new oem o-ring or one I got from work.I really do have to start keeping a log book on my repairs.I took a few pics of it next to a coin for comparison to see if anyone would recognize it as looking correct or too fat.It is in good shape with no defects.I am out of ideas with the reeds looking ok and this looking to be ok.I guess why it,s apart I can order an oem o-ring too put in just to be sure.Any more ideas are welcome and appreciated.

It has been quite a few months since I did the crank seals and I can,t remeber if I replaced the O-ring or not,but that is a good call Tony.I ordered the seals from a place were you look at a parts break down and maybe I missed the seal.I went back out after posting this and checked the oil and it was low.I did not check it before I rode it,but I know I would have refilled it to the correct level when I did the seal job.

I hope this thread isn,t too old to re-start,but here goes.I haven,t had a chance to ride the TY again until last week.I put knew crank seals in and it still smokes the same.I can hold it at 3/4 throttle and it just pours out smoke and will not clean out.I pulled the reed block out today to have a look and they seem to be fine.The onle thing I can think of now is maybe it,s the old stock carb? I did clean it good and the choke doesn,t seem to be sticking.Any other ideas would be much appreciated.I,ve included some pics for your viewing pleasure.The last one is my custom TC decal made from red electrical tape. Also in back side of the rubber intake boot that meets the reed block has a wierd color to it that I at first thought was part of a gasket,but isn,t.

I second that WOW,that is a beautiful bike! Very nice job that you have done.

Did raising the engine to Majesty specs change the center of gravity enough to make it handle differently?

Thanks for all the feed back.If I can swing it I will keep both of them,but I do enjoy riding the TY a bit more.I,ve been racing a 74 pursang for a long time in vintage events and I do know that once set up properly the Buls are very reliable.I don,t compete in trials very often,but would like to do a little more.I have just as much fun going to a riding area,setting up a couple of sections and practicing.I think in the long run the TY would be easier and cheaper to live with.

Haven,t been on a bike all year until yesterday.I rode the 199a first and then the Ty250A in the backyard in a small area.I,m not a very good trials rider to start with so I was just practicing some tight turns and going over logs.I haven,t ridden the 199 much,maybe three times,but it was easier to do all of it on the TY. Does that seem right or does it mean I,m just more use to the trusty TY? I did finally do it all with feet up on the 199,but it took quite a few laps around the course.I had about an hour inbetween,then hopped on the TY and did it first time and kept doing it feet up.Just my novice observation I guess,but the TY seems easier to ride for someone like me (not very talented and un-practiced).I might have to sell one to help pay for some kids college expenses and it would be a tough choice,but so far I think the old TY has the edge.

Thanks so much for posting this!!

Thanks to all for the feedback.I just bought a 1975/76 Frontera (m152) engine yesterday so I think my new plan is to turn my mk7 pursang into a frontera of sorts. I did have a m92 sherp t with a green and white sammy miller (I think) tank on it.I could never get the gas cap to not leak profusely and it would make my one riding buddy real nervous.It never did go up in flames and I really wish that I would have kept it.

Would any of the Alpina model tank and seats fit on a 199A ? I was thinking that if it could be made to work that I could ride it on a dual sport ride.Also any thoughts on if that would be a good or maybe not so good of an idea are welcome.

Hi bondy,just wanted to know were you had your hubs relined? Thanks,scott

Looks really good!That tank looks great,nice job bondy!