scot taco

Thanks again for all the input.I will report back when I put it back together.I did forget to mention that there are a total of 12 plates,is that correct? I like the idea of riding it in the yard before putting the cover back on.I had the one on my Ossa off three times in a day trying to get it right. I will probably get a set of Barnetts,but I will check my spares first because I do have a 175 Frontera motor thats waiting to be turned into a 250 for a slimline sherpa project.Maybe the plates in it are straight. That is a nice KTM pschauber.It would be a nice ride to work,but I,m afraid I would get to many tickets!

OK,I had a little time to get out in the garage to clean and inspect everything.I think I might have a few problems. One is possibly the bent studs in the clutch hub.It looks to me that three of them are off.Thank you Woody,that is something that I did not know or think of to check. Also I found two of the clutch plates are warped,although I,m not sure of the best qay to check.I started by laying them on a piece of picture frame glass and then held the ones that were warped against a flat one to compare.Thanks Feetupfun. I also pulled out the pushrod assembly to check it out as pigbog and pschauber suggested and it seems ok.The ends of the two rods that meet the ballbearing are in nice shape.The ball is 5.5mm.The pushrod is 187.3mm in length and the whole lot - push rod,ball and end rod are231.7mm in length.Thanks guys. I,ve added a few pics of everything just for grins.I think I need to polish the hub and basket and either replace the warped plates (I might have some old ones somwhere) or get a new set? Then straighten the studs.

By correctly adjusted I mean that I first set the pressure plate free play by running the adjustment bolt in until it makes contact with the pushrod then back it off a quarter turn then tighten the lock nut.I then adjust free play at the hand lever to about an eighth inch. The plates did push out squarely,but didn,t seem to push out real far,but maybe it shouldn,t? When I had the sparkplug out and pulled in the clutch lever to kick it through and check for trueness/spring adjustment it would drag and turn the clutch basket every second revolution or so. When it goes back together and I put the springs back in I usually run the nuts down so they are flush with the end of the stud.I then kick it over and adjust the spring tension accordingly so that it pushes out sqarely.Does that sound right or am I doing that part wrong?Any tricks of the trade or advice on what I may be doing wrong are appreciated. Thanks for the reply Nigel

I,m not sure if it,s the correct terminology,but the clutch drags on my 199A.When riding the bike and you pull in the clutch it doesn,t fully disangage and the bike tries to keep going with the pressure plate correctly adjusted and slight free play at the lever. Before pulling it apart I did check the pressure plate trueness by pulling the sparkplug,then kicking it over while holding the clutch lever in- it was pretty much spot on.So I pulled it apart and the basket has no wear grooves to speak of.I,ve never seen that before and it doesn,t look like they,ve been filed smooth.Anyway,I don,t think the plates were hanging up on the basket.The hub looks ok with very slight wear marks and a few nicks on the ends that look to be made from a tool in clumsy hands. I have not cleaned and inspected the plates yet,but they are the stock steel ones.I,m just looking for any suggestions on how to cure it and what else to look at or do that I,ve missed.

In the US try Ossa Planet,Ossa World or Speed and Sport Vintage.I get all of my parts from Alex Snoop in NY,but I,m not sure if he ships overseas.He is a great guy to deal with,but does not have a website,just an email asnoop13@optonline.net

Thanks to all for the input.Woody,what type of shop did the machining of the linings? I have a new set that are to big to fit the drum,but wasn,t sure who to ask about turning them down or if that was even an option. I will have to look at what brand they are when I go back out,but I do like the idea of having them re-lined with a better material and then machined to fit. Lineaway,I still have the old pads as the new ones didn,t fit,a new cable and new amal levers.The backing plate was disassembled,cleaned and lubed-so I think I,m on the right track.I should add that this isn,t a MAR,but the older Plonker that came before it,but it looks to be the same front wheel.The carb is jetted pretty good and she will run right down to a stall and pick back up cleanly.The problem in my area is there are no true vintage trials.They just have a class for it in my district (17) and we ride the modern intermediate line. feetupfun,thats a good call.I always try to put it back together correctly to try and center the shoes and not bind the forks,but I never thought about that.

Is there anyway to get the front brake to work, or better yet,has anyone had any luck fitting a different front wheel? If so what was it from? It would be nice to fit a TY front wheel.

Either way you have built a very nice looking bike!

Go to Ossa world.com,then click on vintage,then click on microfilms.Then you will be able to click on MAR-suspension and see a parts break down of how it all goes back together.Hope that will help some.

1970 Ossa Plonker.Runs like a watch and will go up snotty hills like a 4T,but has REALLY bad brakes.

To keep the pre65 type trials alive it definitely needs to get rid of the year thing and just call it British bikes class.I believe everyone will still ride what they like(2 or 4T) and won,t get so discouraged by too many rules.Thats been the reason for the decline of AHRMA here.To keep the whole lot going,classic,twin shock etc. the sections have to remain sane for the majority of us wobblers.If it,s not hard enough for the top few then let them go ride modern trials.IMO it,s about a day out with like minded folks on a bunch of cool bikes with a good competition that is challenging,but fun,not do or die.

That looks like a great day of fun! I love those black AJS rigids in the first minute or so.They really would run right down to a wisper and pick right back up.Beautiful sounding and works of art IMO.Thanks for the video.

Thanks again for all of the input.The HFS looks pretty sweet,but I can,t justify the cost of them for how much I get to ride and compete.The way it sits,anything new would probably be a big improvement as the springs that are in it sag quite a lot just on it,s own weight.It feels like there is maybe 3" of travel when I,m riding it. I didn,t get to ride much this year due to a knee and back injury at work.A few weekends ago was the first time I rode it and my TY250A in the yard all year.I felt more confident on the TY and I think some of that is because the Bul just isn,t set up yet for me.

I have been driving a 92 chevy caprice wagon for the past couple of years.It rides nice,gets pretty good mileage and you can sleep in it in a pinch.My next vehicle will be a van though because a trailer is pain.No good way to lock the bikes up and one more thing that could break down and ruin a day of riding. The Nissan looks pretty cool,but being a vintage freak I really like that Dodge that Brewtus has.It would be impossible to find one that nice here in the midwest.A friend of mine has a sprinter van that is great.It drives pretty good,gets about 23 mpg loaded and you can stand up in it-which I really like.They just cost too much for me and aren,t cheap to service or repair.I think I like Lineaways idea of a stripped out conversion van.

I had thought about just gettig a set from Hughes(Bultaco Motorcycles).I just wondered if something other than stock or progressives would be better. Thanks for the replies.

I am in need of fork springs for my 199a.I have read that the Magical fork springs work well,but would have to do more checking to see where to get them here in the states.I have also read about longer fork springs from Inmotion.What is the reason for the longer springs over stock and are they a better or as good an option as the magicals?

Nice work,it looks great! That model is one of the best looking bikes ever built.

Most excellent job!!

OK,thanks again for all the help and advice.I really do need to order a shop manual.

Is there any trick to getting the screws out that hold the pressure plate on without buggering up the phillips head?

Thanks for all the help.I don,t have a service manual for it,so I do have one more question.Can I change the seal externally or do I have to split the cases?

I had the TY out today riding around the yard and it smokes pretty bad.The more throttle you give it the more it pours out white smoke and it will not clear out.The gas was mixed at 32:1 with a freshly cleaned and oiled filter.It,s only the second time that I,ve had it out since buying it back from a friend,but I know it didn,t smoke like this before. I,m thinking that it could be a primary side crank seal? Could it be worn rings? Too much oil on the filter or the fuel/oil mix?It does sit and idle good and I had no problems riding over logs behind the shed.On the plus side,I think that it killed off most of the mosquitos in the yard.

I came across this pic on the web.It is a pretty sanitary looking bike and I,m curious who built it.I like the way they did the rear frame mods and how the tank blends into the side panels.

Patrik.I have to apologize because I believe I have called you Paul in previous post. My book on 5-speed Bultacos calls for 90 foot pounds.I have mainly only worked on my Pursang and I tighten it to 50ft/lbs and have never had aproblem.