marky g

Local clubs to me only really cater for either T/s pre65 and modern...no aircooled mono. Thats does not bother me OTF, I only ride clubman route these days...the challenge thing is the building of the bike, I like to tat ........I've currently got a TY mono which is a keeper, I just fancy doing something a bit different. Back to my first question, me and my mate (whos rides a 'proper t/s ) would like to do some of the larger twinshock rounds next year, I'm not bothered about results but would I be able to ride on a converted bike in a modified class or for no points etc etc, can it be done with out too much hassle........it's a good social day out for me for the most part

Thats it Bo, thanks for that....that looks really good.

I must admit I would like to convert a TY mono into a twin shock, I'd like the challenge and I quite fancy a twin shock ride but without paying the silly prices that decent twinshock bikes are fetching these days. How would I get on if I wanted to ride a converted mono in say a twinshock series?....is there a 'modified class'??.......I don't want to get into a 'is it right or wrong' argument...I just like the idea of the challenge and want a good days sport with my mate's. I've seen some pics of a converted Yam mono on the net but for the life of me I can't find them!

Air rachet is the preffered way but if you have not got access to comp air I've always found that a socket and a T bar will do, a few short sharp hits to the end of the T bar normally does the trick (don't hit the flywheel though!!)

Mate drowned his 06 Rev3 at the vic recently, it's cost him

Same as Woody, I'd be interested in what you have to do with a heat gun to bring the plastic as good as new, I was always told you could never get the 'yellow' effect out once it's there......

I've just bought an 86 TY mono that I'm restoring to ride, it's fitted with a Talon rear hub and wheel, took the tyre off tonight to find the wheel is tubeless!......how common were these rims / hubs?. The front wheel is the std Yam DID rim which needs replacing, the rear rim looks in good condition if a little faded (gold anodised)....how much are new rims these days or would it be cheaper to get the rear re-anodised?...........I'd quite to respoke the rims myself.

It's been on ebay for ages now, has it ever occured to him that he might be asking a tad too much for it??

You know your stuff Jon, cracking Job. Your right, I've got my work cut out to be fair the parts that are needed i would have replaced anyway, all the bearings seem very good with no play, even the swinging arm spindle came out easy all greased up. I plan to keep this one so i don't mind spending a few quid getting it as I want, I plan to ride it in the isle of man two day event in 2010, a friend has got a pinky so it should be a laugh........here's the last one I had and restored.

Nice work jon, what kind of paint did you use? does the plastic tank affect the finish of the paint? Couple of pics of my latest project. I've already cut the std foot rest's off and welded wider/lower one's, I plan to do a total stripdown and rebuild, engine will have new mains/seals, new rod kit and a rebore etc etc. I've had about 6 TY 250's over the years, i love em!!!!!!! this one will be a keeper....the only job I can't afford just yet is a wheel rebuild....

Nice work jon, I've just bought an 86 250 (a 59N I think?) nice original bike that will get some TLC, i've just cut the old foot rest mounts off and re-made some better ones. What do you think of the Sammy Miller seat/tank unit?........i see he still sells them and I might buy one for mine........I'll post some pics when it's done

never had the need to use a beader myself, spread the tyre with an old inner tube first, leave overnight (IRC comes with cardboard spacers) lube the tyre up, valve core out, good compressor and jobs a good un. if it wont seal firstly, stand it up and push it against a wall as you pump, use your leg to apply pressure also......it don't take much...........the problem lies when they tyres have been stacked on top of each other at the stockist or dealers, hence the use of a tube to spread the tyre again. A good powerful comp and taking the valve out is the key

THIS could be what your after if you pockets are up for it

just curious, why fit a Tubeless rim?....my old TY Mono used to run IRC tubed rears and they were great, sit on the rim really good....

THe false neutral thing is a gearbox problem, not a clutch.......as for the dragging, they all do it to a certain degree, try changing the gearbox oil first......... some decent 75w should do the trick.

Cheers for that Jon, top man.

Fair play, just a note on the horn. I got a good battery operated horn from Halfords for a tenner, it's as loud as fook, quite small too and it's constant sounding. My local shop are quite off road friendly but I'm pretty sure there was no specific rule for number plate size for an MOT, it's the plod that enforce that one if they catch you out on the road.......but as you say, it don't really matter cause it all gets put on the top shelf till next year ......good luck at the trial.

Blew a seal yesterday, I managed to get a new seal of GG at

Put the 35 pilot jet in yesterday and will be riding the bike on boxing day so fingers crossed. I've also raised the needle one notch on the slide, just to give her a bit more juice in the mid to upper range.......

I kinda tried this a few years ago, a mate went down the same route with a very nice 240 Fantic TS. I bought a nice TY175 and spent a few quid to make it competitive, shocks footrests etc etc, I rode it for two classic trials and hated the thing, under powered, crap suspension (even with new shocks)........I was expecting too much from the little yam. Not sure on brit stuff, not my thing really but one chap I know has spent thousands on his cub making it 'trick'which kinds defeats the object to me. I've had a few TLR 250's in the past and I'd love another but I'll never pay the 3k they seem to be asking for these days, even a good 240 Fantic TS fetch at least

Just wondered who on TC rode it?........I thought they got it spot on considering the conditions (on the yellow route anyway). I saw Woodys OSSA MAR, cracking bike and a great ride to boot, I've been out of the game for 4 years and it was only my second 'comback' trial but I must admit I really enjoyed it.......I missed the bangers and mash at the end though .

Cheers for that Motomerlin, For it to run something like I'm finding it's nearly 5 turns out!...the screw isn't far away from dropping out at that point, the bikes mint and it looks like it's hardly done nothing from new so I guess that 30 jet is the one in from new. I've ordered a 35 jet off my local dealer just now, I'm suprised on how little info there is on what must be one of the most popular makes of trials bikes (manuals etc). My old TY had a great manual you could go and buy, same with my old Sherco....I downloaded a PDF manual for that one. Cheers once again MM.

Bit of a long shot I know but does anyone one know the correct size of pilot jet for my 02 TXT edition?. Running very lean at the lower end and struggling to tick over when the mixture screw is a a normal 1.5 turns out, fuel oil mix is 66-1, cleaned the carb out with high power airline, the pilot jet was not blocked. The current pilot jet is 30 and the carb is a delorto.........any help would be great.

Another over priced Honda, were they ever that good???...I see the guy with the twinshock is still trying to get 6.5k for it in another ongoing auction

Pin looked good so I didn't change it Adam. Never thought it could have been pre-ignition there Bigfoot, might be the cause to be fair.......it was sweet untill half way round the trial. I'll check out the ignition timing and jetting....any online info on these?? Cheers guys