lee harris

I modded a 240 arm by welding a strip on it. It is now a T profile. I then used a spacer on the 300 hub. Pm me a mail address and Ill post a piccie to yer! lee

I had a look but didnt find it that interesting! The seller did not want to give an details...talk about buying the cat in the bag! Perhaps Bob can let us know what he got! Does he read this??? I have lots of used bits similar to those from the US which I cant give away...who needs a 303 or section frame...nobody! Lee

The hebo bits are certainly plush but are you still in the spirit of things Glenn? Does your clutch lightener move the top and bottom out a half an inch. If not, do that first...top and bottom lee

Try Steve Goode in welschp

You dont need special tools to split a 200, usual pullers etc. Plus I use a turned town allen headed bolt to punch the engine mount pins out! New mains and seals will be about 50 pounds a set I think plus about 15 quid for gaskets.

.....in good condition for the year= its bu/&ered ...usual trials knocks and scrapes= the frame has been welded I usually put at least an complete A4 side of text in there if I`m selling and put the buy it now price in the wording only AND the Buy it now price is less than the start price for pick up only i save the costs and the people come to look and buy without bidding. Quite fair I finK Lee

Barry Lee??? 1970s Hotrod worldchamp 5 times. Nowt ter do with trials but i used te watch hotrods at wathemstow as a kid......

would you believe i failed maffs...

If you ride trials, then 75:1 (easy to calculate) full synthetic is ok. (1% or 100:1 is 10cc for a litre, so thats 50cc for 5 litres. 75:1 is 1,5% which is 75cc for 5 litres) If you ride the fantic on a cross circuit, think about 50:1, which is 100cc for 5 litres. havent we had this somewhere here before? HTH lee

i wud put it on evil bay and expect 350-450 quid if the rest is good lee

But pete, you always did have more experience on the proper bikes...im still used to stripping beamish suzuli lumps

MMMmmm? Ok throw your hammer away. Then throw the pliers, mole grips, big iron levers and anything else away you may be tempted to use!!! Lets just try the oilseals for starts as Greeves was greeving about! Take off the kicktart lever on the right. Take off the flywheel cover. Becareful and the gasket MAY be re-usable. Holder the Flywheel witha flywheel holder and toosen the nut. Alternatively use an air gun and a hammer/air ratchet. You will not need to hold the flywheel in this case. SPECIAL tool number 1 needer. Crank Flywheel puller. Screw into the flywheel tighten the nut, maybe tap with a leather mallet and wammo, the flywheel is off. DONT HIT IT WITH A HAMMER. NEVER. EVER. look for the marks on the ignition backplate, If there are none there, make one. When you reassemble, make sure they line up PERFECTLY. Now you see the RH Oil seal. Come back to that later. Left side. remove the gear lever . Loosen the case cover screws evenly and remove the cover. TAP gently the six screws holding the clutch in place. LEAVE THE STEEL HAMMER in the bin. Foild a piece of surgecally clean Rag 16 times and wedge it between the crank gear and the clutch basket. Loosen and remove the cluch screws. Use that air pistol again to LOOSEN the clutch center nut or use a clutch hub holding tool. DONT TRY to wedge it with a BIG BAR OR TYRE LEVER; YOU WILL BUGGER SOMETHING: oops caps lock again! Fold down the lock tab on the crank nut and use that air gun again to loosen the crank nut. If you have no gun, refold your wifes knickers again and wedge it in there (no the engine) to stop the nut rotating. Remove both nuts and then a flat two or three screw puller to remove the left hand crank flywheel. Stop if you dont have the right puller. NO LEVERS BARS OR HAMMERS Now you can see the LH crank seal. To remove the seals I use two spokes with the nipples on the end. Grind the bent end to form two hooks. Push these into the centre of the seal and turn them outwards. I then bridge the two spokes using a thick steel bar and then get the mole grips on the bridge...I know you threw them away.... and pull. Wamo, the seal is out! try that for starters

Come on pete, be a bit nicer, he does ride fantic! The placcy tube does nothing- Sometimes there aRE TWO AND THEY LET AIR INTO THE CARB: iF THERE IS ONE; I E: THEY CARB TUBES ARE CONNECTED TOGETHER; THE HOLE LETS THE AIR IN THERE CAPS LOCK

Soory I woz short with my answer, I was catching a plane. If you can imagine 6000-7000 rpm and then a sudden piston seizer, you can expect the big end to have a flat spot. The main seals are unlikely to be visualbly damaged but such an engine will never perform the way fantic built it after such a seize. I think it is advisable to strip. 0.02mm on the crank pin is enough to make it run rough and only experienced people can "feel" that. If the crank is still oily, which it will be if not stripped. even these peole wont feel it either. It will run like a dog thjough To put it anougther way, if you want to keep the bike, be prepared to change the mains and big end? If you want to sell it, you might just split the cases to remove the bits! lee

Soory I woz short with my answer, I was catching a plane. If you can imagine 6000-7000 rpm and then a sudden piston seizer, you can expect the big end to have a flat spot. The main seals are unlikely to be visualbly damaged but such an engine will never perform the way fantic built it after such a seize. I think it is advisable to strip. 0.02mm on the crank pin is enough to make it run rough and only experienced people can "feel" that. If the crank is still oily, which it will be if not stripped. even these peole wont feel it either. It will run like a dog thjough lee

The crank is wrecked

Can you post some pictures of this modded Twin Shocker Lee

silent Sport make apacking material which is supposed to be brill.....expensive I use....er.......loft insulation on all m WES silencers...sorry dick...change it regularly at 5 quid for a truck load dont overpack it though, thats wot WES says......

To quote a well respected southampton fantic man... the betors are sort of falcon copies with inferior materials the njbs have 4 inches (wheres my mono) of travel and i dont think graham has the same springs on his betors as SM (mono again???) I have heard some stories about falcons blowing seals also but the are rebuildable and mineare new i think the rockshocks are a 80s design...if there is no gas, the oil will become airiated (?) at higher temps.... My old Marzocchis were gaud also..... I have a set of White Power shocks at home...anybody out there who can rebuild them????? lee

Can you find out where it can be ordered from. is it the classic or modern? thanks lee

Yep thats it, on the top near to the clutch cable holding boss. If you bu%&er it or use another screw, make sure it has a breather hole in it or you will damage the crank seals as the crank cases cannot vented if there is no hole. lee

I am just about to buy a 95 section for bits. Need a seat? Tailpipe? Sumpguard, wheels? etc etc. PS its a249 also and i want to keep the enginey bits

this should start some discussion........ I bought several sets of betors from graham...great price, nice guy, shocks ok for the price...... then I tried njbs clubmans from steve goode great guy, good price saocks look pretty but...... then came the njb experts from the same brummie...still a nice guy.....price still ok although much netter than the clubmans and better also than the betors...... i now have two sets of falcon from Robin. All these trials people are very nice, .....most expensive yet....but the best so far you pays yer mnoney and takes yer choice. PS I like IRIS chains and Monos also......

steve goode motorcycles, also on evil bay, 27 quid ish

I just check both my sections.... FM455 .....that means two things 1. They are 249cc and 2. An FM364 has 125cc Still a great bike though Lee