the dabster

Evening all, Fitting an uprated spring to the forks on my 2014 gas gas (10% stiffer) and wondering if the fork caps just unscrew straight out (slackened them right back but they appear reluctant to pull out to give access to the internal spring) and if there is a particular leg to use - instructions say first stage stiffer one spring or over 95kgs fit both uprated springs. Any advice would be much appreciated.

I bought a new uprated rieger spring from Gas Gas for precisely that reason. I had it on my Factory bike for five weeks prior to changing the bike for a factory sherco and had it taken off prior to sale. It sit's on the shelf in my garage and I may sell. I think the advantage is if your well over the rating of the spring the intense preload limits the range of movement. A stronger spring can run at a longer length (after providing basic support to your weight) giving you greater access to more of the range if that makes sense. I'm more hopeful enthusiast than good rider to be honest but I believe it does make a clear difference in bigger stuff that gets slammed into etc. My rationale was why pay extra for a trick bike that has a disproportionate spring rate on what is probably the most significant mechanism provided by that bike - rear suspension.

It's a reasonable set of questions. I'm interested in the JGas myself and have spoken to Steve Saunders. He strikes me as an honest guy and one I wouldn't hesitate to do business with but have a 2014 bike. I am very interested in having a very close look at the ssdt next year with a view to buying a 2015 model. I know someone who spoke to a very good rider that has been on one and he thought it was ace to ride apparently. Of course the worry is no matter how trustworthy Steve is if the company fails it would be difficult to sell on etc.

Like you I am very keen on the Jotagas, the build quality looks top class and I have heard from someone who is a very good rider that has tried one and thought it was the dogs bollocks. I have spoken to steve saunders about this and other issues and he assured me he has spares. For what it's worth he strikes me as a genuine bloke! I'm keen.

I have watched at both venues and feel Nevis Range is miles in Front of Penrith. Man made obstacles can be created virtually anywhere within reason if logistics are the concern but it has almost become an indoor trial outside when it is structured like this, if that makes sense. Natural terrain is intrinsic to trials and the catalyst as to what made the sport desirable for many in the first place and Scotland is unique in this context. No-one attached to MB downhill fraternity appears to find it grossly off putting as a location I can assure you because I live in the area and it is bulging at the seams during these events and others. If trials is suffering from a lack of interest maybe we should look at what is causing this and think about getting back to what made it such a compelling and desirable thing to do in the first place. Personally I derived my enthusiasm from watching Tarres, Michaud and Saunders riding to rules that allowed them to stop etc and all in natural terrain, can't think of anything better to capture the imagination of the next generation. Just my opinion for what it's worth.

That's fine I will be there from Friday night so I'll catch up with him at some point throughout the weekend, been interested in a Jotagas for some time now and have heard some worrying tales so maybe get some info from the horses mouth as it were! Don't worry about the bottle I'm happy to do it for you.

It was lying in a pool at the bottom of a big step. I can only imagine it was carried when the burn was in spate. My wife washed the bag as it had been submerged since may and I have steeped the tools into a petrol mix and the ratchet spanners in light gear oil, there was no inner tube or drinks bottle that I could see but monty jons' rolex was inside!! I bought a car for my wife last year and found some snap on equipment under the seat which I took round some of the local garages on the chance someone would claim it and I don't need to tell you what happened next! Are you going to the world round at penrith because postage would be expensive based on the weight.

Morning campers, Was fortunate enough to be roaming the hills near Callart falls just before sunset last night and found what - for obvious reasons - I will describe as a good quality expensive item related to trials or a trials rider. So if you rode, marshalled or spectated the 2014 SSDT and lost something the day the bikes went to callart falls and can describe to me in detail what you lost I will gladly (reluctantly) arrange to have it returned to you. If not I promise to make good use of it with a clear conscience.

I could stand corrected but I have just bought a new factory sherco and I'm sure it has the sureflex clutch you are talking about. My experience is the opposite, albeit I have never ridden a sherco before, the clutch and gearbox are impeccable with neutral as easy to find as on any roadbike. My gas gas gearbox was grossly inferior in contrast.

The ergonomics of the gas gas are very good for taller riders. I've just changed from a gasser to a sherco without riding one before and was horrified by how high the pegs feel and how low the headstock is. I'm trying to find a solution to lower the pegs and have risers on already. That said the engine and gearbox are peachy.

Had an L5 S1 prolapse many years ago - football training six nights a week, playing golf during the day - spent five months flat out, no remedial surgery. 'slipped disc' which is a layman term, is like the bulge in the weak part of the wall of an inner tube. The jelly like substance between the intervertebral bodies exploits wear in the annular ligament of the disc which usually ends up impinging the sciatic nerve. Surgery usually involves discectomy and fusion of the spinal body above and below or a procedure called a laminectomy which basically involves some of the bone from the proximal bony prominence being chipped away to accommodate the nerve. Try to establish and then maintain a healthy lordosis (natural concave shape to lower back that a child has) by stretching and yoga. Core strength needs to be built; an exercise device called a roman chair is invaluable for proper form hyperextension work which will stabilise your lower spine. Learn how to stretch your hamstrings, psoas and hip flexors and how to mobilise your SA joints (search the web). Take your time, build up slowly and rest in between, don't lie about, inactivity is the worst thing you can do. Get used to stretching and strength training every other day and be careful with abdominal workouts and you will get back bike riding no problem. When you do, ride for ten minutes and get off and walk about for two or three mins in between and build up the time you spend out slowly. Don't ride two days together, always have rest periods. I would say the initial repair process is vital, at least two months before you ride with gentle walking and stretching until then. You will get back if you do it right, muscle spasm is the problem and only you can learn how to treat your back appropriately. Best wishes Rob

Interested in this myself.

That name is a blast from the past, I remember years ago travelling on my own to a Scottish championship round in an old escort van with a slipping clutch. I was running late and used most of my fuel getting there and was worrying about getting home (no mobiles or credit cards in those days). I didn't know anyone on the scene then but Ian Fender realised that and started to make a point of speaking to me at the trials. Anyway he lent me a fiver to get home that day which got me out of a real pickle! A really fantastic guy. I was working the day he was fatally injured outside Fort William during the SSDT a few years later. He was flown direct to the neuro unit in Glasgow but unfortunately did not survive. A sad event by any measure but even more distracting when I realised who it was. Apologies for hijacking your introduction Will but the name stirred a few memories. Hopefully if you get into trials you will meet people like Ian... Hi by the way!

Turn your carb upside down to remove the float bowl, take the pin out that holds the floats in place and remove with needle valve. Remove pilot jet and screw and mains. Soak all the jet holders (float valve) and body of carb with deboc or carb cleaner and blast the jets and body with high pressure air. Hold the jets to the light and make sure you can see through them. Next, re-assemble the floats and check the level using the tutorial on the splatshop website or the one on the Beta forum on here. rebuild the carb and when you put the bowl back on listen to it (empty) as you tilt it about and you will hear the floats move from open to closed. At this stage hold the carb along side the bike at the same angle it sits in the bike and attach the petrol pipe and let the carb fill. It should not drip out the overflow pipe at a normal angle. Clean filter and renew plug then try again Air screw is between one and one and a half turns out as a starting position and tune from there when the bike is hot.

When I looked at the floats according to the tutorial on splatshop website (UK Keihin supplier) they were within range. Having said that I will bend the tab slightly to see if it does make a difference. I thought of this previously but was put off when I considered the fact the level seemed sufficient for the first 30mins running from cold Forgive my ignorance again but if the mag cover is sealed surely water won't get in? I am quite happy to drill a hole in the bottom of the cover if this is the correct thing to do.

Not steep it was the water cover the flywheel plate that made me think. Checked all the gaskets, all seemed fine the poorly cast carb is an example of something rare that no-one would think of. I getting to the stage of 'anything is possible' when considering what's wrong. The difficulty is problem is so subtle. Spoke to a mate tonight who is well versed in splitting these engines and he told me it is unlikely to be crankcase seals. He said the mag side is a double seal now and the clutch side rare if ever a problem, in his experience on a gasser. Will re-check inlet gasket flange and fuel tap filter and breather move the float tab another bit; if all else fails I'll order a new 4rt.

Funny you say that, I was speaking Keihin parts supplier about buying some more jets/slide etc and he suggested I test those things too.

I'm thinking out loud because I am running out of ideas. In reflection logic points to a lean mixture because of the symptoms (pinging, hunting, trying to die off. engine making 'clanking' noises on throttle blip etc etc) how this comes about is baffling because for the first 30 mins bike runs relatively well but begins to produce symptom's similar to lean fuelling after a period of hot running. The reason I cited the water crossing was it happened from cold this time and simultaneous to me dropping into the stream. In my ignorance I am asking those with knowledge if there could be a reason to do with the stator plate being immersed in water that would cause the engine to strangle or was it just coincidence. I didn't mean to create confusion, I do understand only fuelling and not ignition creates 'lean' mixture.

No the water wasn't anywhere near the air filter, barely over the mag cover.

I've heard 50 pilot and 122 mains and needle on second bottom clip is a good setup. Maybe 125 main is rich?

Add this into the mix then, went out on mine yesterday and bike started to run lean / ping when I was crossing small stream. Defo seemed to be the water that affected it. When I got home I pulled the flywheel cover and it had water in there and rust on the flywheel bolt and on the wheel itself. What sort of problems would water cause in here? Going to seal with silicon gasket compound tomorrow when it's all dried out.

Look forward to hearing the answer, I emailed GG a month ago asking this question but they never replied.

How do you check for leaks at the crank seals??

What is the official float height settings and method of measurement? Has been doing it for months, 80ml oil to five ltd petrol.

by the way fan working and bp ultimate fuel.