the dabster

I have the base model smallest combo on 16 plate takes two bike height absolutely no problem, not sure what shape the 06 van you have is though.

Good point, i'll stay with it and see how it goes, thanks.

Appreciate all the replies. Don't need it faster as I wont use it on road it was just second gear was quicker than suits my riding style. I like to be between quarter and three quarter throttle in a typical rocky stream, I'm not super skilled and struggle to carry a higher gear if that makes sense. Also seems crazy to make a bike six speed then to have the first one almost obsolete because it's too low. What was the logic behind such a short gear? what could it be used for?

Evening all, Just purchased a 2017 Factory 300 and coming from a Gas\Gas noticed first gear too short for almost all sections. Seen john lampkin's ssdt preparation guide, where he recommends changing the primary sprocket from a ten to twelve (42/12) which makes bottom usable. Phoned Beta today and was advised most riders in the ssdt this year opted for 42/11. Is the 11 tooth front enough to make bottom effective or should I go for the twelve?

Human nature is that some people feel the need to convince others to do and buy things they do, maybe it's a comfort thing. When I have wanted to know about bikes I've not tried I found it helpful to contrast the info against things I had experience of. I think it's wrong to assume the engine cc is an absolute game changer. I don't want to put one brand before others because one mans poison is another mans meat as the saying goes but in the context of the original thread I can honestly say that the factory 300 I had was easier to ride than the previous 250 of a different brand. Some manufacturers engineer a totally different performance profile into their brand which is a characteristic of that bike, like I said I found the 300 I cited easier to ride than the previous one which was a 250. Our brain adapts to its surroundings. Rather than making the cc the defining criteria be open to try different makes that produce different results. I was pleasantly surprised by the bigger bike and I'm a poor rider.

I used to ride expert level before an injury which prevented me riding for nineteen years. Since returning to trials I have tried 7 different bikes {x2 a year} some of which were 250's, and albeit older and very unfit the one I have felt the comfiest on and actually rode the easiest and most effectively was a Factory Beta 300. I preferred the look of other bikes more - don't know why - and wanted to favour other brands but the truth is my next change will probably be another factory 300 Beta. Other than the slightly sluggish rear brake they have everything IMO.

Apologies for butting in but I would also like to know how they compare on ergonomics. I like the low pegs and high bar height on the gasser very comfortable for the taller riders as the beta can be with bar risers. How does the TRS compare with these two. I Can't ride the likes of a Sherco comfortably with the higher pegs and low steering head. Interested to know the opinions from those that have come from Gas Gas or Beta?

If Mike Brown doesn't win it this year I'm not sure he ever will. I believe this is his time to do it for a variety of reasons. In relation to Garry MacDonald I don't think it's any secret he has become fatigued over the years struggling with the logistical difficulties of travel, expenditure, minders etc, while trying to compete against a very talented peer group at British level and this has probably had a knock on effect regarding the SSDT. He talked publicly last year about metaphorically losing his mojo for trials and having to rekindle the desire which was probably a result of going so close last year (which would be a bit deflating) and the fact that he has always been too good a rider to have been stuck up here amongst a lower level of rider. I think I'm right in saying he hasn't done much competing since then until now so he may come back with a fresher mind set and other circumstances will fall into place for him but personally speaking I would have liked to have seen him intensify his efforts last year rather than take time out because like Mike Brown this could be his year. Remarkable if Doug pulls it off again but then again wining is intrinsic to his DNA. Prediction: MB.

That's right, locals that love the sport and grew up in place should not enjoy themselves all year round for the sake of others from everywhere else! Selfish few.... Your arrogance is staggering! I'll say no more.

GasGas UK are 7 hrs from me and the supplying dealer not much short of that. With regards to the faulty main why would it go quiet after its been running a minute or so. I'll speak to GG again see what they say, I just thought there must be so many people on this forum that have run GG that maybe someone would say I had that it turned out to be this or that, not to worry many thanks to all who took the time to try and help, it's appreciated.

Thanks for your input guys I appreciate your time and experience. To answer some of the questions it's 7degrees and due to get warmer so temperature not extreme. I will consider pulling the plug and turning it over on the stand as suggested, never thought of that before it's a clever idea. No flywheel fitted it's as it came from the factory. Is it possible i'ts the piston from cold because as soon as it runs 30/40 secs., by which time the piston expands its gone and doesn't return. Surely a bearing or gear that's defective won't resolve itself during straight after startup?

If it was round the corner from me I wouldn't hesitate but its a seven hour drive at least. With regards to the clutch rattle that is eliminated when the clutch is pulled, it's not that. The clutch noise is consistent and disappears on engagement consistently, I'm familiar and comfortable with that. The noise I'm describing is much more prominent and only really there on firing and for a few seconds later which as I've said is influence by either heat or oil distribution as the engine runs because after a minute running it cant be reproduced even on throttle and isn't present for the rest of the time I'm out whether that is an hour or three.

Yes, thanks for the suggestion. The 4mm allen screw and cap spacer were tight when I removed the clutch and I retightened it on rebuild and checked everything moved freely on reassembly.

Your both right in what you say it is under warranty and I have spoken to GasGas who have been helpful. The problem is (long story) the supplying dealer is hundreds of miles from me and GG have taken this on board. They agreed to supply the idler trusting my mechanical ability to go through a few primary diagnostic steps in order to solve the problem without the logistics of me transporting the bike all that way. I am hoping someone on here has experienced this and can help.

Bought a new 300 GP few weeks ago and overall very pleased with bike but it has developed a rattle on start up that's concerning me. From cold I can start the bike usually second kick. This is my fourth gasser since coming back to trials a few years ago and I understand the concept of the "bart simpson" half gear on the kick start mechanism and how the intermediate idler can sometimes be damaged if the k/start is 'slapped' when starting. I always roll the KS over until it engages at the top and follow through cleanly and I believe my proper technique is confirmed by the fact I can start the bike easily and consistently. I know it is difficult to diagnose noises like this without actually hearing it but I am hopeful someone on here recognises my description as I have heard it on a previous bike and believe many others must have heard the same. As soon as the bike fires from cold there is a metallic rattle from what sounds like behind the clutch side casing. It sounds like pea sized ball bearings thrashing around in the crankcase for five to ten seconds which diminishes as the engine heats up and is not heard again for the rest of the time I'm out. While the bike heats up the rattle can be reproduced by revving the engine slightly. I spoke direct to GG and decided to change the intermediate idler gear as part of a diagnostic process. When I pulled the casing there was a small amount of fine debris on the clutch side magnet and less on the gearbox drain magnet. I pulled the clutch and intermediate gear (which was replaced) and inspected the gears closely for chipped teeth etc. All appeared clean and chip free so I cleaned everything with brake/clutch cleaner and drove compressed air through the clutch pack and gears etc and rebuilt the clutch, replacing the oil. On start up I got the same rattle slightly quieter but still present and again it did disappear as the engine warmed. I'm not sure if it is my imagination or not but I suspect the engine is vibrating slightly harder than it was since I have heard the rattle but that could be my imagination. Now I know the intermediate gear is often blamed for such noises but it's a brand new wheel and circlip and spinning freely as is the clutch basket etc. Has anyone out there experienced this with a gasser and if so what ultimately was the cause and cure. The bike is weeks old so no wear and tear and run in gently, no issues with gear change and transmission oil changed a few times with right amount etc

It's probably unwise to recommend anything in this context, bike preference is subjective, however I understand your reasoning behind the question. First up I would say I have owned a Factory Beta and Gas Gas recently, both superb bikes! Whether or not an Ice model would suit you more than your Beta is something I cant answer honestly but I can tell you why I decided on a vertigo. Most bikes are much the same but the Vertigo to me has unique features - and therefore performance - which, IMO sets it apart from others currently. The fuel injected engine is the sharp, high revving but unbelievably tractable. I've not ridden any other brand that can quite match it. I agree with telecat from earlier in the post when he said the latest mapping appears to has lost some of the 'zip.' The 16 model appeared more lively on the throttle than the latest one but still very good. The mapping is not a gimmick, I usually run the default setting but have tried the richest setting on the hill in wet / muddy conditions and there is a tangible amount of extra grip available which I consider an aid to my riding. Another intrinsic feature of the bike is the low centre of gravity Vertigo champion as part of the sales pitch, it is notably easier to balance (relatively speaking) than any other bike I've had. Practising in the same area over the years takes me to places where I perform the same floating turns etc and I can say with confidence the V is again the most stable predictable chassis / geometry I've tried to date. The gearing appears too close initially but the more you ride the more you appreciate the benefits. Whether or not you pay the extra for the ice over the camo again is personal but I think the three way adjustable rieger available on the ice trumps the previous set up. The extra weight saving from the titanium pipe and magnesium cases etc probably don't make much difference as I'm limited as a rider. Add to this the clever design and obvious build quality and it's got to be a front runner for anybody who is buying with there own money and wants some engineering advantages over the multi bike spectrum of different brands. In saying that the technology brings it's own caveats and I would happily return to a Factory Beta or Gasser tomorrow, both fantastic bikes but Dougie Lampkin is no mug and he has gone the extra mile whie putting this together and from my perspective as a buyer it shows. In closing I have also had a quick go on a TRS and it was really nice as well, Steve Saunders seems a very decent bloke and I hope he is successful with the TRS! As the old saying goes 'it's horses for courses'. Hope this helps make your decision easier, good luck!

It's a valid point. Petrochemical fumes are lethal and tight groups of bikes revving their engines in proximity to people breathing them in directly is highly carcinogenic. Instead of taking offence it would be wiser to stop and consider what is actually being said. These potential problems can all be mitigated with a bit of common sense, the man is right. It's actually one of the very few things about trials that's genuinely hazardous.

I would say the build quality is inferior to Vertigo but agree the reliability is generally good. I've had a 14,15 and recently 17 models

I had a 2016 combat and now own a 2017 ice model. The initial mapping on the early 16 models did need amended but that didn't appear to be the only teething problem. The 17 model is very well mapped indeed, pleased with mine and apparently the other little anomalies have been rectified, time will tell. Great bike, no question but nothing without reliability.

Any idea on the price chris? I wonder if it would be astute to have a spare as I've heard it mentioned before.

I thought vertigo remapped all their UK bikes last May to run the identical map Dougie ran in Scotland. Does bikes coming to the UK now have to have this map installed retrospectively or are the being supplied from the factory with this map - which is what I thought was happening.

As you say, why would you argue with factory instructions. These guidelines come from the people that design and manufacture the bikes so all things being equal it should be accurate info. Did they give you any insight as to why the capacitor failed? I wonder what the failure rate of this component is on other brands as I've heard a few vertigos afflicted by this. Wonder if they are using inferior quality parts or something intrinsic to the vertigo setup is putting the part under strain? Let us know if indeed the capacitor was the cause when you fit it please.

how long have you been using the bike Chris and has it given you any bother previously?

Yeah I knew the highest rated octane fuel was conducive to eliminating / mitigating knock. Have you ever tried octane booster in your bike colin?