dan williams

Yup the airbox is in the way on my setup. But removing the airbox is about five minutes. You can spend a hour or more trying to bleed the rear brakes if you don’t crack the banjo bolt. Sometimes it’s just easier to bite the bullet and take some things apart to get proper access. The upside is once it’s done you don’t have to do it again until something gets broken.

From an earlier discussion

Lineaway’s got you covered. Burp the banjo bolt at the top of the master cylinder with the system in place. Yeah it’s counter to what the manual says but it works because it’s the highest point in the system. Also pay attention to the centering of the disc between the pads. The pads only retreat a tiny distance when the brake is released and it’s possible to have an asymmetric actuation. In a “normal” system the disc is strong enough to make the actuation self centering but the disc on a trials bike is so flexible the system may not properly self center. Put a finger on the disc while actuating the brake. If there is any deflection of the disc a slight pressure opposite side while actuating the lever will help balance the caliper. Beta rear brakes have always been a pain but burping the banjo bolt helps immensely.

Yeah original float height but 27.5 pilot jet. The Betas are prone to stalling on downhills due to the angle of the carb. The price you pay for running stronger on uphills. After a while you just get used to blipping the throttle going down steeps.

It’s probably worth pointing out again that Beta stators that used trigger coils are notorious for failing and causing hard starting, crappy running and random stalls while still showing lovely blue sparks. The sparks just happen at the wrong time in the engine rotation. The newer bikes all use a Hall effect sensor and a cutout on the flywheel for timing and don’t have the problem. You can tell the difference by the sensor housing on the top rear of the flywheel cover.

Wow! Rushed it a bit did we? That much play would probably result in twisting of the plates. I'm not sure there's a way to recover this as all the faces on the tabs have to be at least close enough to wear in. You also appear to have leaned in pretty heavy cleaning the glue from between the pads. All it takes is a light touch and as with any filing less per stroke is always better than too much. Anybody around Leeds got some spare plates to help this guy out?

Very weird to see two occurrences of this in such a short timeframe.

I think once you go tubeless with a new tire at the proper pressure you’ll wonder why every bike doesn’t go tubeless. The grip is mind boggling.

There's some fundamental internal difference in the Sachs manufactured Paioli design. I tried to get the screw off mine and ran into the same issue. Finally got it to tighten up again and called it a day.

Try removing the flywheel weight first to see if you like it with less flywheel. Easier to do one step at a time.

I agree there doesn't seem to be anything other than the splined washer that looks remotely like this. Two questions being, Why did it fail and what effect will it have on the gearbox. The only thing I can think of was one of the snap rings on the shaft was not properly placed or broke. I'm afraid you're in for a case split. Have you noticed any weirdness in shifting or unusual noises?

That’s unfortunate. You may be best served by putting in a lower compression head. If it makes you feel any better I run the S3 low comp head in my Beta and aside from it not squirting out from under me as often it really hasn’t lost anything.

Well in all fairness the idea of soliciting opinion on a public forum is to see if an event is more than an outlier. If it happens to one, a few or many. Since we are rarely a statistically significant group locally it’s nice to be able to ask the rest of the world.

What fuel are you running? With a high compression ratio octane rating is critical. You can jet richer to reduce preignition but then you are throwing away power. This can be especially bad if the ignition advance is aggressive. Beta's were notorious for this.

One of those things a lot of people do but not on a conscious level.

I know that drill. My wife has to color coordinate her grips. Not even gonna mention the riding outfit. ?

If you mean a lot of work for no benefit I agree. But like buying her titanium screws and other goodies I figure she's good to me so I should spoil her. ? She's put up with the indignity of repeated teardowns just to figure out how she works and still runs like new. Good bike.

Yeah that's "normal". Beta replaced the two outer plates with slightly thicker plates so you will have four 2.7mm thick frictions and two 3.0mm thick frictions. Not sure of the logic behind this. I usually replace the 3.0mm thick plates with a couple of the 2.7s and dress them all to the Clutch Fix document. Or you could just dress the 3.0mm plates like the others and put it back together. The newer plates are a lot less gluey so the removal of the glue between the pads is optional. The older plates were a mess.

Neutral is always difficult because the neutral notch on the cam is smaller and in between two larger notches. As pointed out clutch drag doesn’t help either. I find getting neutral from first almost impossible. From second just a light tap on the lever usually gets it but it’s not a sure thing.

I had custom indexers made to improve the shifting on my 300 and they look the same on the diagram. Can you get a pic of the shifter mechanism on your sons bike. Also what year is it so I can see if they take the same part numbers.

Would probably look better without the fork guards but forks are expensive.

Covid boredom project. White plastic. Bold No Graphics.

Now there’s a question you don’t wan’t to ask.?

As do we all. I had the kick stand on my current ‘18 on the longest of any bike for years but took it off end of last year when it got wobbly and I got tired of re-tightening only to have it get loose again a few hours later. Fortunately here in New England there’s a tree every two feet so it’s usually no big deal.

Yeah they never quite get back to the original shape plus they turn into butter once bent.