dan williams

It sounds like you are missing a ground connection. When the thremo-switch closes the electrics are finding ground through the fan circuit. Some of the earlier Betas (non LED lights) ran their lighting systems off the same ac that feeds the rectifier that feeds dc to the fan. Newer Betas run lights off the dc out of the rectifier. As stated, check for broken wires and good ground connections. Beta has done some creative wiring in the past that has led to these oddball symptoms.

A lot of the semiconductor companies have workable reference designs for motor control and battery management systems.

I’m glad it’s working for you.😁 I’m hoping for the Beta electric so I don’t have to buy all new gear. 🤪

So EM can’t make bikes fast enough. The world is going electric. Beta hasn’t released a major upgrade since 2013. Beta now makes kiddie electrics. So… any rumors on development on a full sized Beta electric?

We are about due for a major redesign.

So the 2022 X-Trainer has a diaphragm clutch. 🤔

Ok. I’m just worried as a few have screwed up their plates and I never want that to happen.

Dammit you guys! Take your time and be careful!

I just noticed FS1 has the California trials invitational on schedule for 9:30am EST today. 5/2/21 sorry for the late notice but I just saw it.

I’ve seen several bikes of different brands that do this stall bog when bounced issue. All Keihins. Check to make sure your choke is closing properly. If the choke is just partially open the bike will do exactly as you describe.

There are times kicking my ‘18 300 feels like kicking a cinder block. The new bikes aren’t always easy kickers.

I’d want to see the plates before I assumed they were “good”. It’s been decades that Beta have been saying “improved” clutch. And each was a half hearted fix that didn’t address the real issues. See the clutch fix thread pinned to the top of this forum.

Yeah I’m not saying it wouldn’t work. I did it too but didn’t see much difference. Then again I’ve done a lot of fine tuning to the clutch. The throw is only ~1.25mm so 0.25mm is a significant number. One other thing is we all have different preferences for clutch behavior.

There is a very small amount of throw. Any play in the mechanism is wasted motion so the shimming is to have the minimum amount of travel before the throwout plate begins to move. The practical upshot is at full actuation the throwout plate is the furthest out possible. Supposedly this helps reduce drag. There is debate about what actually causes the various components of the drag. If there is wear in the mechanism this is may help. Hydraulic actuation mechanisms are supposed to be self adjusting for the initial offset so if the mechanism is working properly shimming the mechanism doesn’t make that much of a difference.

This is the parts list. Only one ring size. https://betausa.com/content/SUPPORT_PDF's/2005 Rev 125-200 2 stroke.pdf

A set of rings will restore some zip if it’s lacking or hard to start but these chrome bore cylinders don’t wear like the old bikes. If you’re happy with the power and it’s happily humming along it’s fine to just keep riding.

Yes the -208 is just the OEM designation for jets and screws but the float bowl should be the same. As for Mikuni piddling fuel see the pinned thread at the top of the forum.

You typically have to drop the skid plate to drop the rubber bumper under the engine as it holds the case on. Drain the oil. It’s cheap and you’re going to want to check the magnet for teeth anyway. You can pull the cover without draining the coolant but it’s a pain tying it out of the way with the hoses attached but it’s a pain to remove the hoses to. Once you get the cover off I’m sure the failure will be obvious. Hopefully it’s just the starter gear gone but you’ll have to check all the mating gears for damage. If you’re careful you can get away with the same gaskets without a problem. I’d recommend draining the coolant as well. Again it’s cheap. Replace with Engine Ice or Pro-Cool premixed propylene glycol based coolant. This is one of those jobs you fumble through the first time being extra careful and the next time you just pull it apart in about five minutes.

Just put in enough to see it at the bottom of the sight glass.

Yeah I have an EDG and a Wulfsport jacket and when it’s really cold one of these high-viz coats. But I do really like this old jersey. Funny thing about the high-viz jacket is people get out of your way. They don’t know if you’re a cop or a sewer worker but they step aside and call you sir. It kinda freaks me out to be honest. I won’t wear it to the grocery store anymore. But for riding it’s water and wind proof and really warm. Your buddies can always find you in the woods. And it’s only about $70. Quite a bargain. https://www.utilityprowear.com/collections/mens-outerwear/products/uhv1004-contractor-coat

Just putting this out there. I have one of the Ritratto fleece material jerseys that were the official Beta items. It's great for cooler weather. Is there anything similar made by any of the manufacturers. All they talk about in their ads is breathable polyester. Personally if I could find a stock of these old Beta jerseys I'd snap 'em up.

Is the HT2 carbon out of production now. Can’t find it anywhere and the web pages are giving me the ‘ol 404.

Neatsfoot oiled my old Gaernes. Despite the instructions I laid it on quite thick contrary to instructions. Made the boots supple and waterproof again. I think the instructions to do multiple, thin coats is for “fashion” accessories. Not too concerned with the Gaernes color. Still eventually dried and looked the same anyway.

Had mine done at Pro-BootMX in the US. Look like new. I provided the soles but they will provide them. Gotta be an equivalent in the UK.