dan williams

As these things get more computerized it may be time for them to have a “limp home mode”.

I noticed that too. Adjusted for cold then had to adjust back for warm. Gotta love the S3 adjuster screws.?

Of course it modifies friction. Kinda the whole point of oil. Motor oil has been recommended in wet clutch transmissions for many years. The trick is to get just the right amount of slip for your particular style of riding and the oil I’ve been using has been perfect for me but the change in ambient temperature and clutch behavior just got my interest. Just like jetting and suspension settings there is value in incremental changes to fine tune system behavior. This is just another opportunity to learn. Believe me I’ve tried many different types of oil to arrive at the oil I’m using.?

Went out on a rail trail riding with my wife on her CRF150f. Ambient temp about 7C. First real chilly ride. Huge clutch slip in 6th until the EVO’s gearbox warmed up. Normal after warmed up. Currently running 10W-30 Castrol Titanium Edge motor oil in gearbox. After we got back I measured case temp with IR thermometer. 46C. Her bike was much warmer at about 65C. Kinda surprised how cool the Beta was running. Not looking for any information just making observational notes. Time to try the 0W-20 in the gearbox and see how it feels in colder weather. Experiment time.? I’ll be sure to report if the transmission explodes.

I think one is lights. The other is placebo?. Supposed to be engine map switch but nobody I ride with can tell the difference. So it gets switched now and then just because it’s there. Kinda like the old Steve Wright joke, In my house there's this light switch that doesn't do anything. Every so often I would flick it on and off just to check. Yesterday, I got a call from a woman in Germany. She said, "cut it out!"

Smoothing the tabs is what makes the clutch engagement/disengagement smooth. Cleaning the glue is only about the cold stick. The washers are only a fine tune. They do seem to allow you to put the sweet spot of the engagement where you want it. My bike still has a tiny bit of hydraulic drag but it's not enough to notice riding and is greatly reduced once the gearbox heats up. Riding in the rain/fallen leaves/pine needles yesterday and I still love the way my bike runs and rides now.

Looks like Mitas or Duro from what I can find. Are they gonna stick like a proper modern tire? Highly unlikely but then again you probably won’t know the difference.?

Wow! Learn something new every day.?

Bold new graphics?

When you think about it the plates should rattle some when the clutch is pulled in. They are free to move and the crank speed isn't constant through rotation. I know on the Beta after the clutch mod the fiber plates rattle more.

Can’t argue with success.?

Yeah it’s a crap design. They usually punch out almost immediately.

Maybe because mine doesn’t have the bleed nipple, just a button head screw. Point taken.

Yup the airbox is in the way on my setup. But removing the airbox is about five minutes. You can spend a hour or more trying to bleed the rear brakes if you don’t crack the banjo bolt. Sometimes it’s just easier to bite the bullet and take some things apart to get proper access. The upside is once it’s done you don’t have to do it again until something gets broken.

From an earlier discussion

Lineaway’s got you covered. Burp the banjo bolt at the top of the master cylinder with the system in place. Yeah it’s counter to what the manual says but it works because it’s the highest point in the system. Also pay attention to the centering of the disc between the pads. The pads only retreat a tiny distance when the brake is released and it’s possible to have an asymmetric actuation. In a “normal” system the disc is strong enough to make the actuation self centering but the disc on a trials bike is so flexible the system may not properly self center. Put a finger on the disc while actuating the brake. If there is any deflection of the disc a slight pressure opposite side while actuating the lever will help balance the caliper. Beta rear brakes have always been a pain but burping the banjo bolt helps immensely.

Yeah original float height but 27.5 pilot jet. The Betas are prone to stalling on downhills due to the angle of the carb. The price you pay for running stronger on uphills. After a while you just get used to blipping the throttle going down steeps.

It’s probably worth pointing out again that Beta stators that used trigger coils are notorious for failing and causing hard starting, crappy running and random stalls while still showing lovely blue sparks. The sparks just happen at the wrong time in the engine rotation. The newer bikes all use a Hall effect sensor and a cutout on the flywheel for timing and don’t have the problem. You can tell the difference by the sensor housing on the top rear of the flywheel cover.

Wow! Rushed it a bit did we? That much play would probably result in twisting of the plates. I'm not sure there's a way to recover this as all the faces on the tabs have to be at least close enough to wear in. You also appear to have leaned in pretty heavy cleaning the glue from between the pads. All it takes is a light touch and as with any filing less per stroke is always better than too much. Anybody around Leeds got some spare plates to help this guy out?

Very weird to see two occurrences of this in such a short timeframe.

I think once you go tubeless with a new tire at the proper pressure you’ll wonder why every bike doesn’t go tubeless. The grip is mind boggling.

There's some fundamental internal difference in the Sachs manufactured Paioli design. I tried to get the screw off mine and ran into the same issue. Finally got it to tighten up again and called it a day.

Try removing the flywheel weight first to see if you like it with less flywheel. Easier to do one step at a time.

I agree there doesn't seem to be anything other than the splined washer that looks remotely like this. Two questions being, Why did it fail and what effect will it have on the gearbox. The only thing I can think of was one of the snap rings on the shaft was not properly placed or broke. I'm afraid you're in for a case split. Have you noticed any weirdness in shifting or unusual noises?

That’s unfortunate. You may be best served by putting in a lower compression head. If it makes you feel any better I run the S3 low comp head in my Beta and aside from it not squirting out from under me as often it really hasn’t lost anything.