klonheadd

I think they're just riders not a research facility,so they did a practical test just by riding. In that article there is mentioned what's inside the device. IC engines are very inefficient so there is room for improvement.

According to their claims it will transform from one energy to other more efficiently

I get your point lads. Science and technological improvement is of no concern to average trials rider playing in mud. And it's hard to think about all these ions and molecules I personally thought it's a neat idea and I am happy that trialworld testers are not that prejudiced as these fellas above. I am looking from a perspective of how could my engine work more efficiently than it is, purely for advancing technological design. If it would cost much less it would be more attractive definitely

You can find full setup instructions here http://www.splatshop.co.uk/ohlins-rear-shock-absorber.html

I had an interesting read about new clever device More Torque developed to improve trial bikes air intake by ionising air inside airbox. Would like to test it myself for sure. Full article on trialworld.es Here translated to English : https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.trialworld.es%2Fprueba-dispositivo-mas-par-motor-motos-trial%2F&edit-text=&act=url

Gaerne Balance Oiled was my choice when buying and I don't regret. I was impressed. These boots are very high quality with really nice leather. Really comfortable. After 1 year use (around 100 practices) I had soles with 1 or 2 holes in place where it meets pegs most often. Treated with shoe-goo and it's back to original state. Very happy with mine.

Be careful so there should be free access for air(or fuel) to get in the tank through the breather to let fuel out into carb. If not you it will lead to fuel starvation on higher rpm and lean condition with risk of overheating. My bike had recently experienced that issue. Because I had used old piece of tubing for the breather. After some time it got kinked and was blocked. Bike would seem to be running ok and after a while, maybe 30 mins started spitting coolant and cut off. Engine was unusually hot. I could start it but with more throttle it would die or would barely run on low rpm and overheat. Now everything is back to normal I need to get that one-way valve though.

You can use shoe goo to fill the hole. I am in the same situation now with holes in rather new gaerne boots. Just received shoe goo and will try it today. I can update on results I will get with this method.

Some statistics that I collected last time doing my tube change: I think it was original tube from my Beta evo : 900g weight. Heavy duty tube from local shop :1100g Micheline Trials specific tube http://www.splatshop.co.uk/michelin-front-tube.html : 600g. I have used michelin for about 80 hours now with no problems at all and dont see the need for thicker one. 0.3kg or 0.5kg off from front wheel ( its' rotating mass) is a great upgrade to the bike.

Hey, Blue locktite(med strengh) is petrol resistant (red high strengh isn't). If it comes to o-ring it depends on material they're made from. https://www.sterlitech.com/oring-compatibility-chart. I would suggest using white plumbers PTFE tape (which is teflon) and it should be well resistant to fuel - or maybe you can find ptfe orings somewhere.

I have used hairdryer to dry insides of boot after washing. Stuff it inside, leave space for air to get out. I have a setting on hairdryer to not use heat, only blows air (1st speed). Around 20 min for one boot and it's completely dry.

Brake fluid is very hygroscopic, so it will absorb moisture from the air. Moisture may affect brake feel and will corrode parts inside. This is why you're supposed to only use brake fluid from sealed containers. I wouldn't leave master cylinder open. Investment in "Hand Held Vacuum Brake Pump" is not a big expense (15pounds ebay). It will make job easy and will leave perfectly bled brakes. I am using one like that and bleeding is 5 min. job and done.

Fair enough. Although in my case the changes equaled better "driveability", and more fun. I really like the this engine and it only shines more when it's "un-corked". You always have the throttle to control it but.... I have to say I managed to break 2 fenders on first 2 practices after jet changes haha.

Hey, you might be missing on some top end kick. The adjustment on Air/Fuel screw will help to richen the mixture but will not affect top end/full throttle that much. I haven't tested it with stock silencer, but with my current setup which is Arrow pipe ,changing main jet from 120 to 127.5 made BIG impact to the top end power.

First time removing it was disaster but after couple of times it's not a bother at all.

After you remove airbox theres enough room to operate. Didn't need to touch shock. It worked for me.

I have managed to pull my carb out after removing just mudguard, silencer and then airbox on my evo 4t '12. I didn't need to undo the shock, cdi or regulator - but it's tricky. A lot of observation and some turning/wigling and it will come out.

Hey, sometimes engine weight pushes down on swingarm axle and pinches it, for lack of better word. You probably have 2 or 3 points where engine is mounted to the frame/radiator. You can loosen up all of them bolts but not remove them. Then try to wiggle the engine, see if there's any movement up/down and left/right and diagonally as well. If there's play use it to your advantage, at some stage swingarm axle should become free of anything pushing down, or to the sides or diagonally and then it will come out. This worked for me on 2 bikes, axles were not corroded but kind of pinched, because of the way engine was mounted and then bolted up. best to have 2 person so one person wiggles engine, other is trying to lightly punch and see if axle is in loose position.

wow, that archive actually works. great

I think many of the skills are transferable from mountain bike to trials motorbike. Take for example that backwards(fakie) front manual(stoppie) roll down the slope. Pat can do that on fat bikes and he transferred it to trials as he has shown on many other videos. I haven't seen anyone elso doing that. Also he does without any problem 180 and 360 of little jumps on Mtb and also easily transfered that to heavier trials motorbike. He can even do things on trials motorbike like 360 tire tap, fakie 360 or backflip - these tricks would be coming from bmx/mtb. So I think many skills are transferable, but pedal bike is just pedal bike, you are not practicing clutch/use of engine power so riding mtb can give you only so much. Pat approach is more freestyle , Toni is pure trials. I think both are at the highest level of their motorbike skills.

Hey, very nice Rev4t there. Factory will come with breaktec master cylinders but no caliper. Also Beta titanium pipe, but I think Arrow titanium exhaust might be better. There's supposed to be nicer shock with more fluid capacity on '17 factory+different linkage. And forks with compression regulation. but... I would buy standard version and put myself Arrow exhaust, Ohlins shock. Also breaktec clutch/brake master cylinders and caliper + galfer pads. Actually that's what I did with my evo 4t and it rocks! To top it off - Tech forks with CostaSpecialParts/Bosi 39mm clamps(+compatible wheel). That would give you much better suspension than factory version in my opinon.

Hey, I have 2012 Beta Evo 4t and just made some pictures. I had 2 headlights in bits at the moment. On last picture I am showing what comes out of black box with red switch(engine stop) and black switch(lights on/off). Black switch would lead to white big connectors near my index finger. Engine stop switch lead to small connectors near my thumb.

It's Mikuni VM26 carb. I have found pilot and main jets for that carb here: https://trialstribulations.net/ . Just use search box on their website and look for: mikuni vm26 jets

Hey b182, I have found replacement progressive spring here in this shop trialstribulations.net just use search box on their website for: beta rev3 shock spring. Also there is used full rear shock with spring on ebay for twice the price. search for: beta rev3 shock.

Full name could be air/fuel mixture screw commonly air screw. The air screw can be located either near the back side of the carburetor or near the front of the carburetor. If the screw is located near the back (close to airbox), it regulates how much air enters the circuit. If the screw is turned in, it reduces the amount of air and richens the mixture. If it is turned out, it opens the passage more and allows more air into the circuit which results in a lean mixture. If the screw is located near the front (close to the engine), it regulates fuel. The mixture will be leaner if it is screwed in and richer if screwed out.