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Jimmy Z rode our last event on his new 301 Montesa and had quite a fun day. The 301 is the only 4 stroke that does not have alot of engine brake Good luck figuring out what you want to do I gave up on the vintage, but I do love it!

I have lots of years riding vintage as I started riding in 1972. The TLR beauty queens are very tempting to own, But at the end of the day they are not a true trials bike. If you actually have a real TLR and not the reflex model they are barely a little better. All our vintage events seem to be dominated by ty 175`s or tricked out TLR200`s. Neither of which were competitive back in the day. I would go back to riding the Sherpa T. I have a good friend that bounces back and forth between his Honda and the Bul. He wants to ride the Honda, but it is very limited in the real sections. I actually loved a Montesa 200 for vintage, but got tired of keeping it running. Good luck.

On my grandsons beta sr 80 the front brakes were too grabby and he had short legs, so was crashing to much. I used brake pads that had been ruined by a fork seal leak. That solved his problems. And the pads seemed to get better as time went on.

The worse thing about forums is any fool that has no clue runs his disinformation and confuses the poor guy needing help. I could not stand it any more and checked a old gasser motor that was sitting on my floor. Those are the stock plates. I still think its not correctly installed or those plates (friction are bad). Buy a whole new clutch and move on.

So if it is assebled right. Now the question is do you have free play at the clutch lever?

700 is fine., Bit did you have the clutch plates out.

Well have you taken the clutch completly apart. Those old plates were known to come apart. The friction plate glue would give out and and you could just pull the friction msterial right off the steel. Also the clutch basket can only go together one way. There is a notch on one of the clutch fingers that aligns with a mark on the pressure plate.

Did it sit for a long time or did you just work on the clutch. Tell us the whole story.

You need a clam shell bearing tool with a puller to remove it. Or the old fashaioned way of breaking the bearing off and cutting off the remaining race.

Some times its better to say nothing. Sherco went to a diaphram clutch in 2017. The 2017 owners manual had the 2016 info. Originally the oil volume was 450 ml. Later on they corrected it to 700ml. It was a crap shoot if you ever got the right info.

Yeah, during the pandemic or whatever caused Sherco to drop all the original dealers worldwide, or so it seems. Not much info left before that. They had plenty of parts diagrams, but not much real info. You are searching for something that really had no real info. My son a a new 2012 and the owners manual was pretty worthless. Our importer RYP was great, but Sherco themselves worthless. Most spanish bikes were that way.

2017 is the year they went to the new clutch? Even Sherco was confused about quantity. Hopefully someone that has one responds.

This has been going on a long time. Try it without the gas cap. And if you can a pic of the routing of the vent tubes on the carb.

Starting with the 2011 model, the txt's went to a wider frame at the foot peg area, which gave it better handling. I recently bought a 2011 for my grandson for this very reason.

Correct none of my bikes thermo's failed. I was a dealer for all the brands for over a decade. So of course I have seen lots of failures. The Fantic I refered to had its own strange thermo in the head itself. No replacement that I was ever told about. But I have seen alot of thermos bypassed with no issues. Thesaint has a bike that runs fine just by passed. You act like it will self destruct. Lol Big deal, just ride it!