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You might slow it down. It's awful fast with the stock gearing. Using a 9 tooth is the fastest choice. I prefer something in the middle. A 42 rear. I like a 9 and 38 actually.
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With lean jetting the valves could be slowly fading with the heat. Try a compression test. Also the intake boot is prone to cracking.
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There you go, it is not pressed all the on the one side
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So I looked at your pictures. Show us how the pin sits in the crank from a side view. Most rods only needed 18 thousands clearance. Granted I have luckily not done a bul.
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In case they have not told you, the pressure plate only goes on one way. On the clutch one of the posts will have a notch in the end of it. That aligns with a mark on the pressure plate. Good luck.
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???? Is this some Ai crap.
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Yeah, The Sammy Miller number system was very basic.
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So did you fix the clutch? Posting about a front brake is not the same. LOL.
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Yes, let gravity do the work!
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Trailercamp the issue you are describing is you had the lever adjustment too far in which stops the piston from traveling its full range. You fixed a 27 yr old problem?
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Remove the rear brake pedal comepletely. Use a phillips screw driver to pump it. You are far better off with a clear tube over the rear fender. The air will not move until the fluid is above the master cylinder about 8 inches.
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Search on you tube for jim snell video's. He makes one for the clutch only. For 1995 thru 2001 models. You should be able to see what you are looking for.
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My son runs elf. I run dex vi Go figure.
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Let"s back up a little bit. Did you have the clutch apart?
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I was passing a motorhome in Yellowstone on an xl 350 and almost hit a Grizzley that was running across the road out of my view. Scared the crap out of me. Luckily he was at a full run out of there.