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Clutch drag and not releasing when disengaged is not the same issue. Nothing worse than pulling in the clutch and it `works` 1/2 a second after it should. The problem from cold on the first ride of the day has always been around. But the issue of it not working once warmed up can be the master cylinder or slave cylinder. Also is the fluid low? Or it could just be poorly adjusted. If you have the lever adjusted in too far, the piston is not traveling it`s full stroke. Make sure there is some play at the lever. Could be as simple as a rebuild kit for the master cylinder.
As Billy said (Thanks Billy great post) you have to figure out what system is not working.
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Being the bike is 10 years old the master cylinder could be the problem. Also you are using 500cc of oil?
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Glad you have it back together. It`s hard to imagine the kick start pawl is not damaged after looking the idler gear.
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Between 7-8 should be floating wheelies or turns. Lost technique with all the hopping. Watching a top rider do a proper floating turn is a lost art. Practice both directions. With all the `No stop` riding, this is the one that separates the riders.
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You might try unplugging the cdi. They do not fit very well and just plug back in. If you cannot get any parts from RSI, I just checked my tool box and still have a cdi for it. (They were a known problem back then.) Hopefully it is something simple.
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Check every spoke hole in the hubs front and back, as they were prone to cracking. Great vintage bike.
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I`ve seen more `04`s crack the cases than other years. That is too much play in the shaft. The shaft should be fairly tight before closing with cover. It can be very hard to get the kick start shaft into place. There is a blind bearing that could need replacing on the other end. A good chance you will need a whole new shaft as this has been updated several times. Take your time and get it right or it can happen again.
Also if you have a riding buddy familiar with this it is worthwhile to get some help. A good friend broke his just as he started a national a few years back. Luckily I had a later start time and the importer had the parts available. 45 minutes later we had new case, gears and shaft replaced. We both finished with plenty of time.
Good luck.
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Mitch, the confusing thing on the cadet is the engine started out a 50. Was bumped to 68cc, hence the txt70, then stroked to 72.5cc. The 50 class is small wheel only. (Not for the cadet) This bike fits in two other classes. Great little bike, but did not know they made an 80 kit. The boy always had an 80 kit available.
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Raga certainly fived that. The observer should have took control by hinting at the yellow card. Minder and rider would have promptly cleared the section.
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Nelly, yeah typing and drinking is not one of my strong points!
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www.trialspartsusa.com/tech.html has a suspension break down. Looks like you just remove bottom leg bolt, then cap and rod assembly just pulls out.
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At least we had a championship. The last trial had a reason to run, in quite a few positions. And it was not ever called no-stop.
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The engine has always lacked lower grunt. Best thing to do, is for the boy to start learning proper clutch control. Myself I would just leave the bike alone till you are ready for a 125. It`s always been a great starter bike. The new ones are supposed to have a new motor, interesting to see why.
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Hate to say on most OEM parts, you have to do it the old fashioned way. Pick up the phone, call a dealer and ask to talk to the parts dept. Actually it`s in your best interest. You might get the correct parts the first time.
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Maybe I should put a set on ebay.
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You are making this way too hard. Put it back together and ride it. If the clutch is slipping order new plates. Twenty minute job if you are slow. Just throw it down on it`s side no fluid needed. Also the springs will be fine. There is all kinds of specs on the Gassers because of all the problems.
PS if you check part #`s between the rev3 and Evo, I would bet there are the same. There engine really has not changed too much through the years.
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All above tips are good. I`ve had a few `tough` bikes through the years. Get the rear caliper above the master cylinder. ( hang it with straps or what ever. Just get it high.) Use a long clear line to bleed from caliper nipple. As stated pump without the pedal. If all else fails leave 24 hours to let the air bleed up.
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Spherical bearings usually require no maintenance other than replacement. Bolts could be removed and pivot points greased and bolts anti-seized.
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The `85 foot pegs mounts were weak. That was one of the improvements on the 1986. You might strengthen it if you put on large pegs. The TY handled well, just takes time to get used to the tall stance. There is really no room to drop the mounts. If you want it to work like a modern bike, take the weight off the flywheel. If you have a machinist friend it would be better to shave off half the weight, but it is fun to try it with out the weight!
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Chuck, the `84 250 vs `85 350 used the same crankcases. Do you really think Yamaha built a whole new bike just for the USA? Just a bigger cylinder and a few odds and ends. Most parts that started with 38v were interchangeable, the 46y were mainly 350 parts or later UK bikes.
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That was probably the answer spark arrestor model. Which has not been available for years.
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Did you try Rising Sun Imports? (The USA GASGAS parts importer) I cannot imagine Jim has no sprockets. I assume you are new to trials?
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I could have my insurance agent ask him this week. ( Since his daughter is riding the TDN) But maybe he has
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Only the cylinder and piston kit should be the only difference to the 350. Parts from the UK are not that hard to get. The TY mono was probably the best trials bike ever. But they were rode to death and Yamaha USA did not ever have much parts. Either buy a spare 350 or go modern would be my help for you. There has been quite a few almost new bikes on Ebay. The 1986 was a lot better ride, mainly the rear shock.
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Dan, I have always enjoyed your posts. Race gas is not a cure when jetting can fix the problem. Some trials bikes do benefit from a higher octane fuel, but I would jet it based on fuel that is widely available. Try the 35 pilot again.
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