feetupfun

If the clutch nut was loose it will be making weird noises all the time and the clutch release probably would have gone way out of adjustment If its only happening in second gear it sounds like it is not fully in gear and the clunk is when it jumps out and back in again. I would check the action of the indexing device that holds the shift drum in position for each gear to see if it is moving freely or maybe has a spring that has lost some of its tension. I don't know where the indexing device is on a Rotax motor but most bikes of that era have a plunger that can be removed from the outside and looks like an extra gearbox drain or fill plug. Worst case is that the second gear dogs have lost their edge, which would be an exceptionally rare thing to happen on a trials bike. A left field suggestion is to check the rear sprocket bolts for tightness.

Is it a 4 speed or 5 speed Matador? Softer springs front and rear Sherpa T triple clamps from M10, M27, M49 or M80 Move footpegs rearwards by about 150mm Bigger rear sprocket Flywheel on primary drive side from Alpina or Sherpa T motor. Sorry don't know if 5 speed motor drive side flywheels fit 4 speed motors. Bring wheelbase down to 52.5 inches using shorter swingarm Regards David

Getting rid of the stiffer fork springs will help the steering as will getting the motor, rear brake and clutch working perfectly and fitting a new tyre. There is nothing wrong with the geometry or weight distribution on a Cota 242 if it is set up right. Just because your mates 348 feels better, it doesn't mean there is anything basically wrong with the design of the 242. I have standard 348 that I have spent years getting set up nicely, and recently rode a well set up 242 and I found the 242 felt quite a bit lighter to ride than my 348 but not as powerful. To me the steering on both felt quite similar.

A thread tap with grease on it will clean out the media without damaging the thread form

The idea of having an advance curve is so that the timing is ideal for different RPM. When the motor is turning at the slow end of the scale, it is better if the spark happens just before top dead centre and when the RPM is at the top end, it is better to have the spark happening earlier (more advanced) so that when the big push is happening the piston is starting to go down. Ignitions that do not have an advance curve suffer from being a bit too advanced at low RPM and a bit too retarded at high RPM. People set fixed ignition to what they consider is ideal for how they ride. There is no perfect setting for everyone but the manufacturers suggestion is usually close to what most people like. For your new ignition with its built in advance curve, you should set it to what works best for you, on your bike, not necessarily what other people have done. I would like to help more but need more info about the behaviour of the motor. Communication by typing is very difficult for things like this and I'm having dificulty with what you are meaning to say.

BMW = Bavarian Money Waster BMW = Bob Marley and the Wailers

Looks to me like even with the fork tubes slid down and long shockies it has very modest ground clearance under the motor

Woody those badges are not all made by the same place. With some I have bought the contact adhesive on them has been useless. Others have been fine.

I thought that was what Andy had said but in less words?

Alan both seals can be changed without splitting the cases. RH seal requires removing the gear on the end of the crankshaft and LH seal requires removing the flywheel and ignition stator plate. I use a self tapper screwed into the LH seal to pull it out. The RH seal runs on a spacer so it is even easier to get out once you slide the spacer out. I fit mine with a little oil on the OD so they slide in smoothly.

Once I changed the clutch on my son's TXT Boy 50 to two springs, the gearing became perfect. Previously (with all four springs) it had to rev so high for the chutch to engage that it was going too fast for riding in sections. My son is about 24kg. Maybe a much heavier rider might need different gearing on hills.

just because it is listed at 6000 pounds does not mean that someone is prepared to buy it at that price

About the routing of the cable, I have those same mudguard mounts on two of my Yamahas and find that routing the cable between the flat section of the mount and the tyre gives a smoother run for the cable with a Yamaha cable. On one of those bikes I have slightly straightened the bend in the cable tube to make it fit even better.

Yes that is a standard Yamaha cable There can be sometimes a problem with the plastic sleeve inside that bent steel tube where the plastic sleeve sticks to the cable and creates a lot of friction. I usually remove that plastic liner to avoid the problem. If you are seeing some straightening of the bent steel tube, that just means that you are putting a lot of tension on the cable inner. It is not a problem in itself. If your cable is more than afew years old, the brakes will work noticably better with a new one. To diagnose your braking problem better I suggest you check: How far the cam is rotating from neutral before the shoes touch the drum How well the curvature of the shoe surface matches the surface of the drum

All the adjustable caps do is save the labour required to take the caps off to adjust the spring preload. Standard Yamaha springs are progressive rate and work fine for me at 93kg. I even use the standard Yamaha preload setting. I do use 20wt oil set to 125mm from the top which probably makes them a bit stiffer at the end of the stroke compared with using the standard oil quantity. I like the standard TY250 springs so much I also use them in my KT250 forks and my Cota 348 forks The TY250 forks do have odd damping though - if you jump off another similar age bike that has good fork damping (like an OSSA MAR), then the Yamaha fork action does feel a bit strange. It doesn't seem to cause any problems riding with TY250 forks, but they do feel different.

Alan turning is not affected because your knees are still above the seat, but lowering the footpegs does reduce the clearance under your bum so when you unweight the rear end of the bike there is a higher chance that the seat or rear guard will hit your tailbone. Most commonly noticed when crossing big logs or jumping up an obstacle. Not a problem for people with long legs but I am 5'10" in your measurements and find that a couple of times I have hit my tailbone on the rear guard on my TY250 twinshock with lowered pegs when doing energetic unweighting of the rear end of the bike.

John I cant see any footpeg kits for Tys on the tytrials.co.uk website. What kits are you looking at? David

I reckon you should keep that yzee and just sell the triumph. In ten years time you will greatly enjoy taking it for a blat - I know I love still having my old MXer - riping up some grass at home once a year with it, leaving black lines on the driveway, making a bit of noise

Steve have you priced one from John Cane in the UK? I find it to be economical to buy from John compared with my local (Australian) Yamaha shop for TY175 kickstart assemblies.

I have used two different brands of brushing epoxy inside three or four Spanish trials bike tanks and they both worked fine. I can't remember the name of the first lot, but the last lot was called "West System 105 Epoxy Resin" and I bought it from a local boat repair shop. I would think that any 2-pack brushing epoxy would be modern-petrol-proof. You can look up the properties of epoxy resin on the internet if you want to check.

The TY80 kickstart will probably work fine if you can work out how to ride the bike without a right hand footpeg

Hekto from that photo it is very hard to see what shockies they are. Please take a close-up photo of one of the shockies

Whichever engine you use, the crankcase will need to be machined out to suit the bigger sleeve.

To fix only the immediate problem: Clean out tank with acetone Mask tap thread with plasticene Mix up brushing grade epoxy resin Tip in enough to seal the area around the tap hole Move tank around enough to make sure the problem area gets a coating Allow to cure To protect the tank from modern petrol and fix the crack: Clean out tank with acetone Mask vent hole and tap hole to prevent blockage Mix up 300-500ml brushing grade epoxy resin Tip in and rotate tank until whole inside surface is coated Allow excess to drain out the filler hole as it cures

Early DT175 motor is the same cylinder stud arrangement as TY175 motor. Late model DT175 has different cylinder stud arrangement but I have not yet measured up how big a sleeve can be fitted. Rayer big bore cylinder photos I have seen look like a late model DT175 cylinder but modified to suit the TY175/early DT175 stud pattern.