feetupfun

There should be piston clearance info on notes that came with the Wiseco piston. Wiseco need different piston clearance to what is in the Yamaha book due to the composition of the piston metal having a different thermal expansion rate compared to pistons like Yamaha and Pro-X. The Wiseco is not the best piston for the TY175 for trials use because they are made for race applications rather than trials so will rattle a lot more than others as has already been mentioned.

Is this a joke posting? All I could see is someone stationary balancing on a trials bike. How on earth can anyone suggest what to practice based on seeing that?

Do you mean the twistgrip is returning or the slide is returning? If slide is returning you may have an air leak on the engine side of the carby (probably the connector to the reed cage)

What is wrong with just painting TY hubs and backing plates with silver paint? It has worked fine for me for the last 35 years.

What is it you are asking about?

Jon have another read of the article. It says "steering head angle was tweaked" and "rear shocks angled". The steering head angle change claimed was most likely due to the rear end being slightly higher.

Total agreement - I love the patina of old bikes. I have a M198 with a discoloured but otherwise undamaged original red polyethelene tank and love the look.

I've had two electrical failures on our 24V OSET. One was the keyswitch relay had failed. The relay is a commonly available item at auto electrical shops. If you are not hearing the relay click when you turn the key, it could be the keyswitch failed or the keyswitch relay failed. The other failure was when the speed-limiting potentiometer failed. It can be disconnected if your kid is OK with using full power, which is how I got around the problem.

Andrew are you talking about a front Dunlop or a rear Dunlop that won't sit straight?

brind31 did you know there is a Facebook site dedicated to the Cota 348. Lots of 348 owners there. Its called Montesa Cota 348

I have found that standard trial classic 340mm Falcons work very well on my Cota 348. On the same bike I have also tried 1980s Marzocchis, 1990s Marzocchis, 1970s Boge Mulholland, 1970s KONI special D and modern Betors. The Betors are quite good but not as good as the Falcons.

Battery shops will usually do a discharge test for free. They apply a standard load and measure the voltage with the load applied. You could probably make something using a load like both filaments of a 12V car headlight and measure the voltage across the battery under that load. If it sags much below 12V it is a fail. It should be about 13.5 volts with no load on a charged 12V SLA battery which is what comes standard in an OSET.

Intermittent spark is usually a broken wire inside the insulation, or a loose connection or a wire moving around and (like the killswitch wire) shorting to earth If the spark is good when it is there it is not usually a problem with major components In your case I would first do a visual check of all the LT wiring and earths, including inside the flywheel. If you don't find a likely cause, then disconnect the killswitch and try again.

errrr... no but I'm working on a theory

Wow Greg thats exactly what I was planning to do with my 198 for the next twinshock masters, but I haven't worked out where to hide the radiator. Can you post pics please? Thanks David

Chain and sprocket wear means that it is not just which sprockets you have that determines clearance. Just look at where the axle is in the slot. If it is at the front end of the slot you will have flap problems. If it is at the front end of the slot, add a one-and-a-half link to your chain to get more clearance. The axle will also need to be moved rearwards as the sprockets and chain wears with use.

Brian sorry to change tack a bit here but your mother looks better every time I see her (and way better-looking than a standard RTL250)

Heat may cause the magnets to lose their magnetism I have done a few on TY250 twinshocks which appear to use the same attachment technique for the band - I usually cut the band through with a hacksaw to release it without damaging the cup section or magnets

Just because Falcons have gas pressure doesn't mean they don't have oil. They have oil just like all other shocks which is what provides the damping as it travels through restrictive gaps and holes. All shockies have gas somewhere inside. There has to be a gas space somewhere inside or connected to the inside to allow for the change in internal volume of the shock body as the shaft moves in and out, otherwise they would not move (oil does not compress) Falcons and many others use a static gas pressure higher than atmospheric to reduce the formation of bubbles within the oil and to assist the shaft seals to seal. A side effect of the gas pressure is a small extending force due to the cross sectional area of the shaft. Dry air works perfectly well in Falcons but does reduce the life of the oil compared with using nitrogen due to the presence of oxygen in the air. If you use air it just means that the oil needs changing more frequently. I change oil annually but it seems fine when it comes out. Falcons are not sensitive to what pressure is used. I have found that anything between 60psi and 90psi works fine. I use a basic direct drive (cheap) air compressor at home to add the gas. It could be done using the tyre inflating gear at a car refuelling station but it is easiest if the shockie is being held firmly (fitted to the bike) so you can pull the air valve chuck off quickly to avoid loss of pressure as you remove it from the valve. There is no seperator between the oil and gas inside standard Falcons which is why they have to be fitted with the shaft at the bottom (gas at the top) Standard steel-bodied Trial Classic Falcons are relatively light because they have a single wall tube of a sensible thickness and the attachments and springs are well designed. Also the dust seal holder, the oil seal holder, the upper spring retainer and the piston are made of aluminium.

Portrait of Sigmund Freud by Pablo Picasso?

The 200 motor is a modified TY175 motor, so no, the TY250 motor won't fit the Majesty 200 frame

Depends on what you are calling "the cheap ones". The Talon ones work amazingly well at gripping the rear tyre on my bikes - so well I only use a single Talon on the rear and have not had problems with the tyre moving. When I first experimented with the single rear clamp thing, I put paint marks on the tyre and rim to check for movement, and there was none. There is a drawback though with TALON grips in that unless you use a rubber rim tape that goes over the outside of the gripper plate, it is easy to cause the tube to herniate at the ends of the gripper plate when inflating it to get the bead up onto the rim, due to the sharp change in contour. A rubber rim band helps stop the tube from expanding unevenly into those spaces. I have gone back to using rubber rim tapes (from adhesive tape) for that reason. The OEM clamps on Japanese and Spanish bikes from the 1970s have a gently tapered profile that prevents the herniation problem, and seem to grip the tyre OK, but I'm finding that all my old clamps are falling apart and soon will all have been replaced with the TALON type. I have not experimented with single rear 1970s-style clamps for slippage.

May also be explained as Advance - rotate stator opposite direction to crankshaft rotation Retard - rotate stator same direction as crankshaft rotation

Just found this - maybe what Glenn was talking about PJ1 TRACKBITE COMPOUND is a custom formulated resin that provides controlled traction for competition racing. PJ1 TRACKBITE is a liquid track and tire treatment, which improves traction on asphalt and concrete surfaces. It achieves added traction by means of adhesion and does not soften tires. It will not harm asphalt and concrete and is biodegradable when dry. PJ1 TRACKBITE can be applied with a roller, brush or can be sprayed directly on the tire or track. The chemical compounds used provide maximum adhesion in all types of weather, it is water-resistant and is not washed away by rain. PJ1 TRACKBITE was applied to the track during every race when world drag strip records were set over the past decade. NHRA & IHRA approved, sold worldwide to record setting drag strip tracks. IDEAL FOR USE IN ALL TYPES OF RACING ON HARD SURFACES, INCREASES TRACTION REGARDLESS OF WEATHER CONDITIONS, WEIGHT OF VEHICLE OR HORSEPOWER. Application: Apply a small amount of PJ1 TRACKBITE in front of drive wheels. Spin rear wheels with minimum engine power. Avoid hard burnouts whenever possible. Where liquid burnouts are prohibited, apply directly to tires with a brush, roller or sprayer.