feetupfun

Looks like Pursang to me

Yes I think the seller is serious but misguided

Your red oil is travelling along the clutch pushrod from the primary drive case and coming out where the pushrod exits the hole through the gearbox output shaft.

The nut will not be a problem, but I suggest to bring a 100mm angle grinder home too so you can cut the sprocket to get it off its taper

It may also be the finish on the rechrome not being completely smooth yet (requires running-in of the surfaces by riding the bike).

What a question! It depends on how much you believe of the description and if you need to buy a proper front end to fit to it (maybe you have a TY front end already) The description sounds dodgy to me because the seller is claiming it has a new fuel tank (unlikely), and did not mention those completely unsuitable forks.

It could be somesthings wrong with the bike, or could also be that you are not used to riding 1970s bikes. You would know if you tried a similar bike that was known to be in good condition, or if you got someone who knows OSSAs to ride that one you looked at.

If you think you will make money fixing up something like that you are dreaming. Only buy it if you actually want it for yourself

bash plate airbox hose side cover chain rechrome forks chain guard trials handlebars

I did not seek to criticise. The questioner is actually a riding buddy of mine. I helped him with his question as far as I could a month or so ago, as did many other Bultaco lovers in his acquaintance, but this was not enough to answer his question, so I suggested that he pose the question on this forum in the hope that someone else could help. When I saw that the only reply posting (yours) appeared to claim to provide the answer, but the listing that the link opened only contained brochure photos typical of M199 and M199A, I was concerned that people who may have been able to help, may not open your link, and possibly assume that your reply had answered his query. The outcome for my riding buddy has been some helpful replies. Thankyou everyone who has contributed so far

So you haven't worked out who he is yet? I'll give you a clue - he rode at the same Twinshock Masters as you and I but didn't ride the bike in question

I looked for many years for a 198 or 198A and in that time was offered countless 199s and 199As. I eventually found a 198 (thanks Reginald) which is in the process of being readied for use. I totally agree about the virtues of the 250 motor compared with the 325, for people who want an enjoyable ride.

I reckon about the same helpfulness but yours is also humorous so it gets extra points

That list shows a silver-framed M199 and a blue-framed M199A but does not answer NedKelly's question

About an inch less than the ones on my M49. You can measure them in the time-honoured Reginald way if you want. There is a new set not fitted to anything yet.

Have you compared it with another similar bike? Is it the same frequency as the engine rotation? Did it start suddenly? Is it there hot and cold? It is normal to be able to hear the piston rocking in a four stroke at some RPMs if the exhaust is quiet enough. Also possible to be noise from the valve train. Knock knock at engine speed - piston noise. Tap tap at engine speed - valve train noise. Ticking or clicking noise that happens irregularly may be cam chain noise

I just measured a couple of sets of Fred and Deb KT bars at 835mm

A man with an eye for detail

If someone has cold virus it is considered good etiquette to wear a particulate filter mask to avoid infecting other people

I found owners manuals for Fronteras and Lobitos but no Sherpa Ts. If you want a scan of one of them let me know. I suspect the diagram for the last model Lobito will be the same as for the M158.

Andrew I think the rules for Australian Trials have moved away from having to plug the bar ends. I think we have moved to line up with the rest of the world and the requirement is that the ends of the bars are either plugged or covered by the grips - so if the end is ripped off the grip, it will not pass scrutineering without the end of the bars being plugged. As for the sizing issue, bars come in different internal diameter and so do bar end plugs. As the previous writer pointed out, it can reduce the risk of throttle tube damage if that side has a bar end plug that protects the throttle tube. Another complication to this issue is that there are also bar end masses made to change the natural resonant frequency of the handlebars (for road bikes). These look a lot like bar plugs and these are sometimes sold alongside the types of bar ends that are made to protect the grip/tube on our dirt bikes. I use a home made plastic internal plug on the left end (very light) and either a home-made internal plastic plug, or a protective aluminium end cap on the throttle end. Some throttle tubes require a hole drilled through the end to fit the plug through. Yes you have to cut a hole in the end of the grip if you use external protective caps

Hi Justdrew - and welcome to another Aussie. I used to live at Mt Elliot (Alligator Creek) and ride Trials, go trail riding and race Pony Express in and around Townsville 1988 to 1995 and love the area. I might have a wiring diagram for a Sherpa T in the shed. I'll have a look tomorrow Regards David

I love being able to choose which time period of postings I want to see.

have a look at the JT sprockets website. You can compare the dimensions for sprockets of a huge range of bikes

There is no more torque on the bottom clamps with this arrangement than there would be if higher rise handlebars were fitted to the original mounts.