feetupfun

It may also be the finish on the rechrome not being completely smooth yet (requires running-in of the surfaces by riding the bike).

What a question! It depends on how much you believe of the description and if you need to buy a proper front end to fit to it (maybe you have a TY front end already) The description sounds dodgy to me because the seller is claiming it has a new fuel tank (unlikely), and did not mention those completely unsuitable forks.

It could be somesthings wrong with the bike, or could also be that you are not used to riding 1970s bikes. You would know if you tried a similar bike that was known to be in good condition, or if you got someone who knows OSSAs to ride that one you looked at.

If you think you will make money fixing up something like that you are dreaming. Only buy it if you actually want it for yourself

bash plate airbox hose side cover chain rechrome forks chain guard trials handlebars

I did not seek to criticise. The questioner is actually a riding buddy of mine. I helped him with his question as far as I could a month or so ago, as did many other Bultaco lovers in his acquaintance, but this was not enough to answer his question, so I suggested that he pose the question on this forum in the hope that someone else could help. When I saw that the only reply posting (yours) appeared to claim to provide the answer, but the listing that the link opened only contained brochure photos typical of M199 and M199A, I was concerned that people who may have been able to help, may not open your link, and possibly assume that your reply had answered his query. The outcome for my riding buddy has been some helpful replies. Thankyou everyone who has contributed so far

So you haven't worked out who he is yet? I'll give you a clue - he rode at the same Twinshock Masters as you and I but didn't ride the bike in question

I looked for many years for a 198 or 198A and in that time was offered countless 199s and 199As. I eventually found a 198 (thanks Reginald) which is in the process of being readied for use. I totally agree about the virtues of the 250 motor compared with the 325, for people who want an enjoyable ride.

I reckon about the same helpfulness but yours is also humorous so it gets extra points

That list shows a silver-framed M199 and a blue-framed M199A but does not answer NedKelly's question

About an inch less than the ones on my M49. You can measure them in the time-honoured Reginald way if you want. There is a new set not fitted to anything yet.

Have you compared it with another similar bike? Is it the same frequency as the engine rotation? Did it start suddenly? Is it there hot and cold? It is normal to be able to hear the piston rocking in a four stroke at some RPMs if the exhaust is quiet enough. Also possible to be noise from the valve train. Knock knock at engine speed - piston noise. Tap tap at engine speed - valve train noise. Ticking or clicking noise that happens irregularly may be cam chain noise

I just measured a couple of sets of Fred and Deb KT bars at 835mm

A man with an eye for detail

If someone has cold virus it is considered good etiquette to wear a particulate filter mask to avoid infecting other people

I found owners manuals for Fronteras and Lobitos but no Sherpa Ts. If you want a scan of one of them let me know. I suspect the diagram for the last model Lobito will be the same as for the M158.

Andrew I think the rules for Australian Trials have moved away from having to plug the bar ends. I think we have moved to line up with the rest of the world and the requirement is that the ends of the bars are either plugged or covered by the grips - so if the end is ripped off the grip, it will not pass scrutineering without the end of the bars being plugged. As for the sizing issue, bars come in different internal diameter and so do bar end plugs. As the previous writer pointed out, it can reduce the risk of throttle tube damage if that side has a bar end plug that protects the throttle tube. Another complication to this issue is that there are also bar end masses made to change the natural resonant frequency of the handlebars (for road bikes). These look a lot like bar plugs and these are sometimes sold alongside the types of bar ends that are made to protect the grip/tube on our dirt bikes. I use a home made plastic internal plug on the left end (very light) and either a home-made internal plastic plug, or a protective aluminium end cap on the throttle end. Some throttle tubes require a hole drilled through the end to fit the plug through. Yes you have to cut a hole in the end of the grip if you use external protective caps

Hi Justdrew - and welcome to another Aussie. I used to live at Mt Elliot (Alligator Creek) and ride Trials, go trail riding and race Pony Express in and around Townsville 1988 to 1995 and love the area. I might have a wiring diagram for a Sherpa T in the shed. I'll have a look tomorrow Regards David

I love being able to choose which time period of postings I want to see.

have a look at the JT sprockets website. You can compare the dimensions for sprockets of a huge range of bikes

There is no more torque on the bottom clamps with this arrangement than there would be if higher rise handlebars were fitted to the original mounts.

I am in the process of getting my 348 working well and would like some advice about the issue with the plastic bushings in my forks. After reading Martin's posting I wondered of the problem I am having with my 348 forks might be caused by that same issue. My problem is that when the forks bottom they feel quite harsh in comparison with when the forks bottom on my OSSA MAR and Bultaco M49. The action of the 348 forks is otherwise fine. Tonight I tested the action of one 348 fork leg without the spring in it and it did stick a bit at the bottom end of the travel. I pulled that leg apart and the plastic sleeve seemed to be a neat fit in its mating part. I measured the clearance between the parallel sections of the parts at between 0.1mm and 0.2mm and the plastic sleeve is also slightly belled out on the bottom end. I then measured similar parts from a set of Bultaco Betor forks and the clearance between those parts was 0.5mm. I believe the function of these parts is to provide a hydraulic anti-bottoming function that is effectively very heavy compression damping that happens in the last 25mm or so of the fork stroke. Am I right in assuming that the clearance between the Montesa sleeve and mating part should be more like the 0.5mm that I found with the Bultaco forks? Note the Bultaco parts do not appear worn or damaged in any way and are both made from aluminium. The Montesa plastic sleeve mating part is made from steel.

Another thing is the type of riding style you have. If you generally ride gently and want to maximise traction and control, go for the softest springs you can. If this is you, then aim for about 50% of the travel used (front and back) when you do the Glenn test. Some other people like jumping off big things. They are usually willing to compromise a bit of traction and control for the sake of not breaking wheel hubs and spokes, and so they opt for springs on the stiff side to avoid harsh bottoming. If you are like that, then aim for 30% to 40% of the travel used up when you do the Glenn test.

Further to what Glenn said, if when you do what he has said, you end up with the preload set so high that the shocks are topped out with no rider aboard, that is telling you that the springs are not stiff enough. Betors come with 40 or 50 pound per inch springs. If your bike is a standard TY175, then I would suggest as a guide that if the rider is over 90kg to use 50 pound springs and under 90kg to use 40 pound springs. If your TY175 shockie mount locations or footpeg locations have been customised, then that spring rate recommendation may not apply. For bashplate's TLR, the rear suspension leverage ratio and footpeg position is different to a TY175 so may need different springs for the same weight of rider.

I can take a photo of mine but it wont be until the weekend and no it is not for sale