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Mmmmmm...you are probably right to share it
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Might not work that well once someone from BOC reads your post
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Easy fix - tighten the bolt
Slightly less easy fix - weld up worn part of hole and file back to size/position
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Mark if you pull the flywheel off we should be able to see if it is the same ignition as something else contemporaneous for which there are modern ignitions available
And yes, fitting an electronic ignition does away with the need for a condensor
Regards
David
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sorry to disagree but standard Falcon trials shocks don't have a membrane separating the oil and the gas.
Oil can be replaced by releasing the gas pressure with the valve as high as possible (to minimise the amount of oil that comes out with the air).
The valve body can then be unscrewed from the shock body and the remaining oil drained out the hole that the valve body came out of - no need to disassemble further.
When all oil is drained/pumped out, put 100ml of new oil of your choice in each Falcon. I use 5WT fork oil and I use a syringe to add the oil.
Screw the valve body back in and pump them up ideally with nitrogen or argon, to somewhere between 70 and 100psi. Dry compressed air will also work fine, but may cause the oil to degrade quicker than if an inert gas was used.
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Some of that model have been imported to here second hand since then. There has been a healthy trade in second-hand trials bike imports from Japan for at least 25 years by my reckoning. Most commonly seen are TLM220 and TLR200 but all 1980s and 1990s Japanese market trials bikes are represented in that trade including the Yamaha TY250Z.
Recent developments in the worldwide economy have seen imports of second hand bikes from the USA increase greatly, but in that case it is mainly MX bikes.
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black connects to black and is the LT wire for the ignition. The other two are for the lighting circuits and so don't have to be connected to anything unless you are fitting lights.
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There should be piston clearance info on notes that came with the Wiseco piston. Wiseco need different piston clearance to what is in the Yamaha book due to the composition of the piston metal having a different thermal expansion rate compared to pistons like Yamaha and Pro-X. The Wiseco is not the best piston for the TY175 for trials use because they are made for race applications rather than trials so will rattle a lot more than others as has already been mentioned.
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Is this a joke posting? All I could see is someone stationary balancing on a trials bike. How on earth can anyone suggest what to practice based on seeing that?
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Do you mean the twistgrip is returning or the slide is returning?
If slide is returning you may have an air leak on the engine side of the carby (probably the connector to the reed cage)
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What is wrong with just painting TY hubs and backing plates with silver paint? It has worked fine for me for the last 35 years.
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What is it you are asking about?
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Jon have another read of the article. It says "steering head angle was tweaked" and "rear shocks angled". The steering head angle change claimed was most likely due to the rear end being slightly higher.
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Total agreement - I love the patina of old bikes. I have a M198 with a discoloured but otherwise undamaged original red polyethelene tank and love the look.
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I've had two electrical failures on our 24V OSET. One was the keyswitch relay had failed. The relay is a commonly available item at auto electrical shops. If you are not hearing the relay click when you turn the key, it could be the keyswitch failed or the keyswitch relay failed.
The other failure was when the speed-limiting potentiometer failed. It can be disconnected if your kid is OK with using full power, which is how I got around the problem.
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Andrew are you talking about a front Dunlop or a rear Dunlop that won't sit straight?
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brind31 did you know there is a Facebook site dedicated to the Cota 348. Lots of 348 owners there. Its called Montesa Cota 348
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I have found that standard trial classic 340mm Falcons work very well on my Cota 348.
On the same bike I have also tried 1980s Marzocchis, 1990s Marzocchis, 1970s Boge Mulholland, 1970s KONI special D and modern Betors.
The Betors are quite good but not as good as the Falcons.
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Battery shops will usually do a discharge test for free. They apply a standard load and measure the voltage with the load applied. You could probably make something using a load like both filaments of a 12V car headlight and measure the voltage across the battery under that load. If it sags much below 12V it is a fail. It should be about 13.5 volts with no load on a charged 12V SLA battery which is what comes standard in an OSET.
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Intermittent spark is usually a broken wire inside the insulation, or a loose connection or a wire moving around and (like the killswitch wire) shorting to earth
If the spark is good when it is there it is not usually a problem with major components
In your case I would first do a visual check of all the LT wiring and earths, including inside the flywheel. If you don't find a likely cause, then disconnect the killswitch and try again.
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errrr... no but I'm working on a theory
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Wow Greg thats exactly what I was planning to do with my 198 for the next twinshock masters, but I haven't worked out where to hide the radiator. Can you post pics please?
Thanks
David
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