feetupfun

I found that with my 2003 Rev 3 the axle travel available was not enough in all circumstances and at one stage needed to use a one and a half link. Whether or not this is a problem on a particular Rev 3 probably depends on the sprocket size combination in use.

Brochure photos of the TY250C have been provided here http://www.trials.com.au/content/index.php...er&Itemid=6

Brian H tgh30 if you want to ride a beautiful old bike, ride it as it came. MARs are truly great to ride with standard steering geometry. Please test ride a good one before you cut the frame on yours. Lowering the pegs will require removal or relocation of the stand and changes to the rear brake arrangement.

It depends on how serious you are about having good brakes If the drum diameter where the shoes run is different to the diameter of the shoes when they are on the backing plate, the contact area will be small = poor brakes. Standard shoes + worn drum = poor brakes Oversize shoes machined down to worn drum diameter = slightly better brakes Oversize shoes machined to fit + skimmed flat drum surface = great brakes Resleeved drum + shoes that match diameter = great brakes The picture is out of focus so impossible to tell if it is worn too far for skimming or requires a new sleeve.

A similar idea to Dan's was used in the 1980s on off-road bicycles to compensate for the cyclic variation in torque applied to the front sprocket. The sprocket on the pedal crank was made oval shaped and it was called a "biopace gearset". Changing the shape of the sprockets on a trials bike wil not achieve what Dan suggests because he is trying to alter the shape of the motor speed power pulse.

The photos you posted are of Mark Levinge's customised bike that looks quite different to standard. I went to post up some pictures of a standard bike but realised they were subject to copyright so didn't post them. I'm sure you will get good standard photos soon Yes the seat is meant to be black

The spacer between the bearings can usually be moved sideways enough to get a 3/8"steel drift or punch to contact the inner race of the bearing on the far side to where you are. If you warm up the hub the bearing will come out without taking any aluminium with it. The special Yamaha tool does work but an allen key has a radius at its bend that prevents it transmitting enough force to the spacer. You can replicate the Yamaha tool by fitting a piece of 4mm round steel into a cross hole in a piece of 8mm round steel.

The frame and engine numbers are TY250C (1976 model). I am guessing from your spelling of tyre and seeing the snow on the ground that you are from the USA or Canada, so the colour schemes of the bikes sold there may have been different to what they were here, but here in Australia the colour scheme for the TY250C fuel tank and exhaust heat shield was the same as your bike. Yes 21" is standard for the front tyre. Your bike has been fitted with the optional trail-riding footpeg kit that locates the pegs much more forwards than the standard trials footpeg location. It probably had the optional trail-riding seat fitted also and since removed The footbrake lever is home-made. I will go looking for photos of the standard C model

if nothing else is changed, lengthening the swingarm increases the front rear weight bias (heavier at front). Depending on where the new bottom shock mount is, rear suspension travel can be retained or increased.

Being 360mm they are commonly used on those models. They are quite stiff in the damping and so are not considered to be among the best for trials competition, but are reliable and long lasting and the action can be improved with internal mods.

I have a couple of Bultacos with the Mk1 AMAL (M49 Sherpa T and M138 Alpina). Both are the original carby that came with the bike. I find that tickling with the bike upright does not get enough fuel into the motor but leaning the bike over a bit while tickling so that the tickler side of the bike is the higher side raises the fuel a little bit higher in the float bowl, causing more to run into the motor and these bikes will start on kick 1 or 2 from cold. Not so if I don't lean them over while tickling. Both bikes run fine in normal use with the MK1 AMAL carby.

http://www.thehellteam.com/ Have a look in Technical Downloads

Glenn here is a link to the closest Suzuki car dealer to where I live (130km away). I only know of them because one of our local trials club members was a long term employee there but retired a few years ago. Anyway they might be able to help you out. You may need to work out what the Aussie name is for your car though as I haven't heard of a Suzuki SX4 crossover. I'm guessing it is called Grand Vitara here (a bit like Grand Fromage isn't it?) A trials riding buddy has an 09 Grand Vitara with a TOW BAR (aussie name for trailer hitch) so I could take photos of her (car) if that helps. http://www.lawrencesmotors.com.au/ David

The carby, inlet hose and barrel are all DT175 so of course they all fit together. No the carby came with the DT motor both second hand.

errr... a 1980s Fantic maybe seeing you already have it/them?

Brought into where?

I've got a TY175 with a DT175 carby, DT175 barrel, DT175 head, TY175JC exhaust, TY175 airbox, TY175 ignition and flywheel. It performs exactly the same as a normal TY175 except for at high revs. As the revs get up near maximum, there is a slight surge of power above what a standard TY175 would feel like. Because the porting of the DT175 and the TY175 are the same, I'm assuming that the difference is due to the bigger (DT175) carby.

Reason 1 If you didn't block the injection nipples, there will be air leaking in through them Reason 2 Adding oil to petrol changes the viscosity (which is affects the way it flows through jets) Reason 3 Adding oil to petrol changes the oxygen demand of the fuel The biggest effect by far of these three would be Reason 1

Red light on charger = normal charge rate Green light on charger = trickle charge - can stay on this indefinitely without damaging battery

Sounds like you didn't get the book that came with my OSET. The throttle lights are only red no matter what the state of charge. When charged and no throttle, all lights are lit. As the battery gets towards flat with use, the uppermost light goes out as the throttle is opened. More of the lights go out with throttle being opened as the battery gets flatter. The lights are pretty redundant really because your kids will probably complain about the battery going flat before they notice what the lights are doing. Sorry I didn't check if the bars would take clamping type bar ends - I just made solid plastic plugs to fit - but they are probably the same ID as steel motorbike handlebars. I haven't seen 12.5 levers

I think it is pretty confusing the way you are describing things. There is only one head gasket. I suspect you are calling the cylinder "the head". The head is the part that the spark plug screws into and it is bolted to the top of the cylinder. In between the head and the cylinder is the head gasket. Between the cylinder and the crankcases is the cylinder base gasket, or base gasket for short. The crankcase should be oily inside but the base gasket sealing surfaces should be dry.

If you want to win at trials you should realise that it is silly little off-camber slopes that people get the most points on. If you want a bike to blast up big banks on, the Raga is perfect.

Does it really have a crankcase breather or is it a gearbox breather? A two stroke won't run with a ventilated crankcase.

yes you should take it off

You should listen to this person